Traction bars

Stockguy61

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May 4, 2014
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I'm lookin to see what a good set up is for traction bars. Will be used on my 06 2500 cummins, mostly road driving so don't want them to wear out but also used on the track on the weekends.
 
Just drag racing or some sled pulling also? I know you posted in the drag racing section, but some dabble in both on occasion.
 
Cal tracks here, there awesome... If your a puller i would suggest longer bars like from glacier diesel.
 
If you are going to use a long bar I suggest running a setup that uses a swing shackle on the front of the bar where it connects to the chassis. This will allow the rear axle to articulate through daily driving without binding.
 
I'd for sure go with a longer bar set up if you're going to be pulling also. I'm sure folks have got away with cal-trac's in front of a sled, but I've never cared for them on a pulling track.
 
If you are going to use a long bar I suggest running a setup that uses a swing shackle on the front of the bar where it connects to the chassis. This will allow the rear axle to articulate through daily driving without binding.

If they are the proper length there should be no binding.
 
Cal Tracs have worked well pulling and racing for us.
 
Now I remember that longer bars lift the front end correct? When drag racing a 2wd, would it be beneficial to have a longer bar to help lift the front and plant the rear?
 
If they are the proper length there should be no binding.

They shouldn't bind when going straight no matter the length, but when going trough dips and driveways and stuff like that at any angle where the rear axle is forced to articulate using bars with fixed positions on each end will cause some bind. Using a swing shackle at the frame connection will allow the bar to transfer energy from the axle to the chassis and prevent axle wrap of the leaf springs when putting the power down in a straight line, but will also allow the axle to articulate without binding or rotating in daily driving situations.

For the OP, also be sure to use good tubing. I would recommend at least 1.5" .120 wall tubing especially with long bars so that the bar itself will not flex and bend. I have seen and shot pics of MANY trucks with small thin-wall tubing that bows and bends under the load of the sled while pulling then springs back into shape after they unhook and drive off...
 
They shouldn't bind when going straight no matter the length, but when going trough dips and driveways and stuff like that at any angle where the rear axle is forced to articulate using bars with fixed positions on each end will cause some bind. Using a swing shackle at the frame connection will allow the bar to transfer energy from the axle to the chassis and prevent axle wrap of the leaf springs when putting the power down in a straight line, but will also allow the axle to articulate without binding or rotating in daily driving situations.

For the OP, also be sure to use good tubing. I would recommend at least 1.5" .120 wall tubing especially with long bars so that the bar itself will not flex and bend. I have seen and shot pics of MANY trucks with small thin-wall tubing that bows and bends under the load of the sled while pulling then springs back into shape after they unhook and drive off...

Look up the OUO youtube videos. They have no problem off-roading or articulating with proper length bars
 
i am interested in cal tracs as well, what gains did you guys usually see? were they worth it? also how did they help with bed hop?
 
It eliminates tire hop.. I love the way mine feel. Well worth the 400 bucks.
 
I have long bars, took away the axle hop but that's about it. Been very very tempted to pull the trigger on some caltracs, need something that plants the tires.
 
I've been very pleased with my traction bars. There's a Johnny joint on the axle end, and I've had zero issues with flexing the truck out, and their road manners are no different than stock. Just no wheel hop now
 
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