Trailing arm Airbag rear suspension.. Input needed

here is pictures of my air ride,


my trailer is a 8.5x28' pace shadow GT bumper pull trailer and weighs on average 10-11000 lbs with my toys loaded
 

Attachments

  • 2012-02-12_10-14-08_272.jpg
    2012-02-12_10-14-08_272.jpg
    85.8 KB · Views: 0
  • lf shock.jpg
    lf shock.jpg
    22.3 KB · Views: 0
  • rr shock.jpg
    rr shock.jpg
    33.6 KB · Views: 0
  • tn.jpg
    tn.jpg
    29.5 KB · Views: 0
  • 418428_3471063819357_1353982514_33238540_325312106_n.jpg
    418428_3471063819357_1353982514_33238540_325312106_n.jpg
    65.9 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Hurley said:
100% AS is thrown around in the offroad circles, I'm not sure where you need to be.... but I would say 100 and down would be decent for a street vehicle. (and yes, what you changed is what i was talking about)


you could get a cv joint put into the driveshaft to combat the pinion angle issue
Click to expand...

100% Anti-squat means that the suspension will counter act all of the weight transfer under acceleration. Anything over 100% anti-squat will cause the rear to rise under acceleration and anything under 100% will cause the rear to squat under acceleration.
 
OK, so looking at the Talon system, it's just a 2 link with an additional set of links in the back to carry the bags on. I'm not entirely convinced that it does anything for pinion angle change since the axle is still attached to the front link arm. I do like the built-in ping tanks on that system though...

Apparently the firestone system did ok. Maybe the self-leveling valves reacted quick enough to control the jounce......

I think for what I do (tow heavy and play hard on the street.. Wouldn't mind doing some drags occasionally) that 4 link is going to be the way to go... I'm thinking of making things a touch different and going with square tubular stock for my link arms. I can bore the through-holes on the mill and have my busing tubes entirely inside the arm link arm stock vs welded to the end...
 
Thanks Dale, was hoping you'd chip in........ I know you basically just have a 2 link system with bags. How's your pinion angle situation on the ol' Ford?
 
So for I haven't had any problems with the stock Ujoint still the 75 ford size.My budy is coming over this week with a electronic angle devise that allison uses to set the right degrees for the allisons so the hormonics don't destroy the rear thrust bearing of the trany So I will find out if I'm close or not.I never had no problems the RTO6610 sp.alway road smooth.

Dale
 
Last edited:
kazairl said:
100% Anti-squat means that the suspension will counter act all of the weight transfer under acceleration. Anything over 100% anti-squat will cause the rear to rise under acceleration and anything under 100% will cause the rear to squat under acceleration.
Click to expand...


why, yes..... hence my post.
 
So, quick question, for making a 4 link..... Should I use Poly T Bushings from PolyBushings.com or Ballistic/Heim style joints? I'm not an offroader really, so articulation isnt really a big deal for me. I'd think the poly bushings would last longer and be quieter.......

Also, I'm gonna get a screenshot of my 4 link design on here tomorrow sometime after I do some more measuring.
 
I have used tracking harm for trailer on a setup for a freind worked out great smooth and quit and adjustable.I'll try to find one and take a picture.my brother works at a factory that make them.That is where I buy mine at for ladder bars.

Dale
 
deerefanatic said:
Anyway, back to my question..... Poly bushings or heims? LOL...... CompD trainwreck coming..... I can feel it! LOL
Click to expand...

My personal opinion? At least one heim on each link. You can run a bushing on the other end.

Edit: How are you going to locate the axle side to side? Panhard bar or are you going to try and triangulate the 4 link?
 
Last edited:
Heim on each link then.... OK. I know Me2 just used rubber spring bushings on each end of his links..

I'm gonna use a panhard to locate the axle. Don't want to mess with triangulated stuff.
 
2wpuller said:
I have used tracking harm for trailer on a setup for a freind worked out great smooth and quit and adjustable.I'll try to find one and take a picture.my brother works at a factory that make them.That is where I buy mine at for ladder bars.

Dale
Click to expand...

So you're just using the torque arms for trailer suspensions then? That'd be great as they're available everywhere... And should take the forces pretty good too.....
 
deerefanatic said:
Heim on each link then.... OK. I know Me2 just used rubber spring bushings on each end of his links..

I'm gonna use a panhard to locate the axle. Don't want to mess with triangulated stuff.
Click to expand...

You could probably get away with the rubber bushings. They will deflect more than poly. It kind of depends on how long your going to make the links and how much suspension travel you are planning on having.


Have you thought about just taking all the springs out of the spring pack except for the main leaf and mounting your bags on top of them? That will shift most of the weight carrying duties onto the bag while still keeping the axle positioned. Use a ladder bar, or traction bar to control axle wrap and your pretty much set.
 
Yah, I'd rather have a full 4 link for a couple reasons:

1: Best ride hands down.
2: Kneeling function for hooking trailers
3: Best wheel hop control going.

My links I'm planning on being about 40" long. The bag's I'm looking at would give me a max of 10" of travel from deflated (Kneeling) to full extension limit.

I know rubber will deflect more.. I was thinking the poly stiffening things up would help with sway?? Or not?
 
You know though, the more I think about it, the leave 1 leaf and roll with it doesn't sound sooooo bad... I wonder how much with just 1 leaf the back would sag anyway with the bags unloaded... Part of my thinking here is expediency to get the truck finished, and the fact that I've already got Dana 80 Ladder bars all made and can't seem to get em sold... Might as well use em as to have em in the corner.

SO, in going with this idea, Would it be critical to have the bags outboard of the frame, or could they mount on top of the axle with a crossmember overhead to support the top of the bag.... The crossmember would run between the frame rails, at the top.
 
I've got one leaf from the axle back, all the leaves forward on the 95, two leaves back on the 01. The 95 gets wheel hop spinning the tires. Mine's setup a little different, one big truck air bag right over the pumpkin on a frame. I've had the 01 this way for a couple of years with no problem, it's got a self level and I have an air compressor on the motor. It's had over 8000 lbs. of tongue wt. at a few times with no problems, doesn't look like it's even loaded. Rides like a soft half ton unloaded.
 
Hmmmm. Nice. So you basically cut the leaves off so they're "half-leaves" then? Interesting..... On your 95, do you have a traction or ladder bar? If not, that prolly explains the wheel hop....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top