Tranny gone or worse?

GSM-01 said:
I got the scanner. All it has is the P1693 or whatever companion code it is (I know its a companion code) and the P0122 Throttle Position Senose Voltage Low code. Thats it. Nothing else.
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Not just a code scanner. Get a snap on or a DRB. Then you can actually diagnose.
 
zstroken said:
Not just a code scanner. Get a snap on or a DRB. Then you can actually diagnose.
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That would be nice. I'm using an old smarty I had sitting around. Its about all I use the thing for anymore since I don't have it on any of my trucks.
 
zstroken said:
TPS would cause the lockup issues. The only thing that will cause it to stay in first gear electronically is a govenor solenoid malfunction. The Transmission power relay supplies 12V to the govenor solenoid when the tranny isn't in limp. The PCM supplies the ground, and cycles the ground on and off to pulse width modulate the solenoid(and line pressure to generate a govenor pressure comparable to ground speed) which regulates the govenor pressure. If you have 12V accross the solenoid, it is closed and your govenor pressure equals zero. When it is equal to zero you will not come out of first gear. Here is a quick check to check the tranny out mechanically. Pull the relay under the hood. Start the truck the tranny will be in limp. Pull the selector to neutral, pause 5 seconds, then pull it directly to 1st. You will have first gear until you let it shift to 2nd or Drive. Then you will have to go to neutral again to release the pressure and let you be able to get first again. You will be able to go back and forth all day long from 3rd to 2nd, but you won't get first again until you get back to neutral. This will tell you about the mechanical condition of the tranny. Unless the solenoid is physically stuck closed, from contamination.
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Ok so I did your trick and it worked. All day 2nd to 3rd and back but not down to first. So is this telling me that the mechanical condition of the tranny is good then? If so do I need to replace the TPS or do I have to get that solenoid replaced? I still hate trannies....
 
GSM-01 said:
I still hate trannies....
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Glad to hear that, if you didn't, you'd be :homo:



Now you're just a bigot.....:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:
 
JFlagg said:
Glad to hear that, if you didn't, you'd be :homo:



Now you're just a bigot.....:hehe: :hehe: :hehe:
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A..... C.... PHLEM.....


SILENCE!!!!!



I KILL YOU!!!!
:hehe:

I still need to know what's wrong. Thanks in Advance!
 
zstroken said:
TPS would cause the lockup issues. The only thing that will cause it to stay in first gear electronically is a govenor solenoid malfunction. The Transmission power relay supplies 12V to the govenor solenoid when the tranny isn't in limp. The PCM supplies the ground, and cycles the ground on and off to pulse width modulate the solenoid(and line pressure to generate a govenor pressure comparable to ground speed) which regulates the govenor pressure. If you have 12V accross the solenoid, it is closed and your govenor pressure equals zero. When it is equal to zero you will not come out of first gear. Here is a quick check to check the tranny out mechanically. Pull the relay under the hood. Start the truck the tranny will be in limp. Pull the selector to neutral, pause 5 seconds, then pull it directly to 1st. You will have first gear until you let it shift to 2nd or Drive. Then you will have to go to neutral again to release the pressure and let you be able to get first again. You will be able to go back and forth all day long from 3rd to 2nd, but you won't get first again until you get back to neutral. This will tell you about the mechanical condition of the tranny. Unless the solenoid is physically stuck closed, from contamination.
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According to this post, as far I understand, its either the TPS or the solenoid stated above. If you have a voltmeter you can check and see if your TPS is getting the right voltage....I'll find the post with the instructions. Be right back..........
 
i would re-set the APPS first

RESETTING THE APPS SENSOR.
(ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR)
2ND GENERATION 24 VALVE TRUCKS ONLY.

LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED

DIGITAL VOLT METER
# 20 TORQUE BIT SOCKET
# 1 PHILLIPS
# 10 MM SOCKET

Proper service and repair procedures are vital to ensure personal safety of those performing the repairs. Standard safety procedures and precautions should be followed at all times to eliminate the personal injury or improper service, which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
Although this material has been prepared with the intent to provide reliable information, no liability is assumed in reliance of this material.

It has come to my attention that a lot of people think by disconnecting & re-connecting the batteries and stepping on the throttle it is going to reset the apps, no, that is not correct. It is impossible to adjust your apps if you do not know where it is supposed to be set at. That is why you need the voltmeter.

This is the procedure I use to re-set the apps.

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the apps wire to see where your voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (power control module) which is located off the passenger side of the firewall.

• You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine,
• You want the orange wire with the dark blue tracer which is pin # 23
• Voltage should read somewhere around 0.5 volts,
• At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference.

*** TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK ***




Resetting the APPS Sensor cont. page 2
(Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor)
2nd generation 24 valve trucks only.

• The apps sensor is located slightly above and a little to the left of the injection pump.

• Remove the black plastic cover that is located by your injection pump.

The two screws that are holding it are plastic, do not put any downward pressure on them or you will never get them off.

• Un do the 6 - 10 mm headed bolts that hold the bracketry in place.
(DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES)

You will notice the apps is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2 - 20 bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful these screws strip very easily and you only get one shot at them.

• On the apps you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the apps adjustment should be.

• After loosening the screws you can rotate the apps both clockwise and counter clockwise to get the adjustment you need.

• The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin # 23 should match the white tag on your apps, if not adjust accordingly
 
before you do that....pull the battery cables and let it sit with the key on for 10 min. turn the key off then,

re-connect the battery's turn the key on ( do not start) and press the throttle peddle to the floor slowly ...do that 2 times
 
I already reset the APPS, it did nothing and I'm still getting a TPS Voltage Low Code (P0122) so I think the TPS is offically gone.
 
If your for sure, I know someplace that has one for 300 bucks......At least they will when I return mine since it was the ECM. LOL
 
JFlagg said:
If your for sure, I know someplace that has one for 300 bucks......At least they will when I return mine since it was the ECM. LOL
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$300? I didn't think the TPS cost that much!
 
I already have one. jeezz.... I thought I would get a new one but don't look liek that will happen.....
 
Did you get first gear out of it though? The second to third thing was with the transmission relay out??
I would look at the speed sensor first. It is the cheapest. If it isn't seeing the output shaft turn, I don't think you will develop govenor pressure. With no govenor pressure you won't shift out of first.
 
zstroken said:
Did you get first gear out of it though? The second to third thing was with the transmission relay out??
I would look at the speed sensor first. It is the cheapest. If it isn't seeing the output shaft turn, I don't think you will develop govenor pressure. With no govenor pressure you won't shift out of first.
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I got out of first. The truck did exactl what you said it would. So I should look at speed sensor and not TPS even though that is the code is it throwing? I thought the speed sensor was part of the ABS and if that was out the ABS light would come on.
 
So you think it isn't getting a signal from one of the sesors keeping the tranny form shifting. I think I see what your saying. I don't know how much the speed sensors are but the TPS is expensive so I may start with that then.
 
This is the speed sensor for the tranny. Not for the rear end, or if you have a97 and older the one in the xfercase. This is the one in the OD unit of the tranny. Drivers side.
 
If your saying it is stuck in first with the relay in, that is saying that the tranny isn't in limp mode and it doesn't think anything is wrong. Something has to tell the tranny to build govenor pressure. The RH had a govenor pump in the back of the tranny that 1 mph=1 psi for the most part. I am guessing dodge figured to minimize changes on the VB to simiulate the same thing electronically. So if it doesn't see the tranny output shaft move, then you will not build any govenor pressure= no shifty.
 
I got a 99 4x4 with with a 47RE and a 241 DHD transfer case. So by the sounds its not going to be that.
 
GSM-01 said:
I got a 99 4x4 with with a 47RE and a 241 DHD transfer case. So by the sounds its not going to be that.
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That is the tranny I am referring too. The RH is the one with the mechanical govenor. I just was using the RH for illustration. I would go with the speed sensor on the OD unit on the drivers side. Easy to change.
 
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