Truck dies when put in gear.

cumminss2000

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Nov 29, 2011
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Well I got my p pump swap complete and went for a test drive last night. The engine ran well but as soon as I put it in drive it killed the motor. It did this about 5 times until I gave it a little throttle when I put it in gear. Then when I came to the stop sign and applied the brake it bogged the motor down real bad and woulda killed it if i woulda completely stopped. It's a 47re transmission rebuilt about 10000 miles age with a low stall georend tripple disk converter. When the truck was vp i had an edge comp with smarty on it. I took the smatry out and sold it and it started killing the motor when i put it in gear when it was cold but when it warmed up it worked just fine. It also didn't stall when coming to a stop. Anybody have any suggestions?
 
Idle's too low or governor springs need a couple more clicks.
 
It idols at 800 rpm and I guess Chrysler says 800 in drive is what it says it should be at. I'm thinkin set it at 1000 rpm?
 
Sounds like gov spring are clicked to tight should be .050 -.060 from nut to stud on gov springs
 
If your running .093 or .120 lines that could be your problem. They make good power but they decrease drivability. Just had a p-pump 24 with .093 lines on it. Mild pump, just a work/plow truck. And the .093 lines made The truck really lopy when you would start to let the clutch out. It sounded like the truck was gonna die. Put the stock size lines on and it runs great now.
 
I'm running .093 lines but if I rev the truck to 1000 rpm when i put it in gear it works just fine. Correct me if i'm wrong but i don't think that should hurt the transmission. And when it's just idoling it doesn't lope at all it runs smooth.
 
Sounds like gov spring are clicked to tight should be .050 -.060 from nut to stud on gov springs

Half right. Loosen the springs a bit, raise your idle. Caliper measurements are useless for setting springs on an unknown setup.
 
Mine did the same thing for a while. Raising the idle helped and gsk adjustment was a pain to get right. I still haven't gotten it to idle lower than 1000 and not die in gear....but I stopped messing with it too.

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I put 4ks in the pump before I sent it to dpe and i measured with the calipers and put the 4ks same as the stock ones. I'll raise the idol a bit first and see how that goes. If I adjust the springs is one click at a time the way to go? Also you adjust each one evenly right?
 
I put 4ks in the pump before I sent it to dpe and i measured with the calipers and put the 4ks same as the stock ones. I'll raise the idol a bit first and see how that goes. If I adjust the springs is one click at a time the way to go? Also you adjust each one evenly right?

I say loosen them. I know when I was mucking about with my cammed 12mm pump, the tighter the springs were, the worse the idle setting was. To the point that if it dropped below 1200 rpm, it would die. Loosen them off so the flyweights can come out. If the springs are too tight, the flyweights won't extend at that low of speed. If they don't extend, then there is no place for them to retract to when the pump slows down, and no fuel is added to keep it running.
 
I raised my idol to 1000 rpm and it works great now! Definitely a different animal now compared to the vp! I wired the 24v apps wires to the 12v tps. The little driving I have done so far it the converter doesn't lock up by itself I have to use my switch. Is it possible I have it wired wrong and if I switch the wires around it'll work?
 
I finally got mine straightened out. It was doing the same thing, dying when you put it in gear, even with the air off and would die when you come to a stop in gear with the air on. I raised the idle to just over 1K rpm and tightened the springs. The tighter they were the worse it was. Idle was so high it would slam hard when you put it in gear. I was afraid I was going to damage the drive line.

Tate's right, governor springs were too tight. I backed them out till the nut was flush with the end of the stud and then tightened them 2 clicks. Raised the idle to @ 750 in park, no a/c. Now it will not die when put in gear with the air on or off. With the air on, in gear, it idles @ 650 rpms and it's not "loping" like it was either. Still fuels to @ 3750.
 
I raised my idol to 1000 rpm and it works great now! Definitely a different animal now compared to the vp! I wired the 24v apps wires to the 12v tps. The little driving I have done so far it the converter doesn't lock up by itself I have to use my switch. Is it possible I have it wired wrong and if I switch the wires around it'll work?

There is a thread in this section from way back that shows what wires to use for using the 12v tps. But, I was also talking to someone that told me they changed the computers for the 00-01 years. They were able to lock-up in third without having OD shut off. (correct me if I am wrong). Not sure if that would have an outcome with the 12v tps having an issue?
 
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