tuning my 12 valve for low egt's HELP

SCHOOL BUS

SCHOOL BUS

DLRA T-O
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
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just got the new motor back in.

current setup

12 valve
coated stock pistons
balanced rods
hamilton head
hamilton push rods
hamilton springs
haisley street cam

ddp competitor series injectors
94-98 Dodge Ram Competitor Series Injectors


scheid 913 pump withe flat top plungers with 5kgsk and 191 dv's
has afc and plate intact


turbos are 66/74 and a s480 with race cover







I'm trying to keep from melting my **** like i did last year.

Did that by throwing about 200 hp of nitrous at 700hp fuel only.

So far we have dynoed the truck with the afc and no plate on fuel at 670. see 1500 pretty quick on the dyno. I'm pretty sure that its gonna get hotter at the track. Put the plate in it, dropped to 650 and still gets hot.

should i keep trying to pull fuel and then throw a bunch of nitrous to get back the hp and maintain the low egt's? Because I know that throwing nitrous at alot of extra fuel is going to get hot.





thoughts?
 
last motor made over 200 degrees from 67psi to 83 at 680 hp at the higher boost wouldnt go over 1500..
 
What is your timing set at? Low timing would cause a "late" burn out of the exhaust valve. If your pop pressures are on the high side, you are effectively reducing timing advance.
Also, what are your boost pressures between stages and drive pressures? You might drive the big charger a bit harder, like closer to 40 ish psi.

A cheap way to reduce egts is cool between stages. A water injection kit with something like a 300 nozzle pointing into the outlet of big turbo will definitely drop some temp between stages and have a better chance of atomizing water before it his small turbo. Or a small shot of n2o
 
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I don't think you'll get hot enough fuel only to melt the new motor racing 1/4 mile, I think Nitrous was your problem last year.
 
Chit just throw more fuel at her. When the smoke turns gray back it off a click...:)
 
SCHOOL BUS said:
just got the new motor back in.

current setup

12 valve
coated stock pistons
balanced rods
hamilton head
hamilton push rods
hamilton springs
haisley street cam

ddp competitor series injectors
94-98 Dodge Ram Competitor Series Injectors


scheid 913 pump withe flat top plungers with 5kgsk and 191 dv's
has afc and plate intact


turbos are 66/74 and a s480 with race cover







I'm trying to keep from melting my **** like i did last year.

Did that by throwing about 200 hp of nitrous at 700hp fuel only.

So far we have dynoed the truck with the afc and no plate on fuel at 670. see 1500 pretty quick on the dyno. I'm pretty sure that its gonna get hotter at the track. Put the plate in it, dropped to 650 and still gets hot.

should i keep trying to pull fuel and then throw a bunch of nitrous to get back the hp and maintain the low egt's? Because I know that throwing nitrous at alot of extra fuel is going to get hot.





thoughts?
Click to expand...

If pistons are what you're worried about, I wouldn't pay a whole lot of attention to exhaust gas temperature. Adding timing would decrease the temp that your probe sees, but would increase cylinder temp and pressure. You can completely melt down the engine without ever going over 1350* or run all day at 1400-1500 without hurting anything-- All depends on timing, cyl temp and pressure. You probably know this already at your level in the game, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.

-jp
 
He burned through the turbos last year, I don't recall melting pistons,
I would say 70psi isn't enough, but you are running it through an extremely efficient head cam combo...
 
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ddp is still selling injectors?

what size do those end up being
 
When are the chargers spooling? Getting on top of the chargers as quick as possible will give them a better chance to keep egts down.

Do you have a boost gauge between the turbos?
 
I am making 134psi and just hitting 1550*.
That motor has been doing it for 3 years now.
that is spraying a ton in it also.
 
Not suprised by the high egt's and low power. Your turbo's are too big for your power level.
 
I think I heard these are 5x20


Did a few more pulls today. As soon as it spoils it sweeps the gauge quick! Only seeing 70 psi and getting a weird screech that comes I. At 55psi or so. Been messing with the drive pressure activated gate on the top turbo to try and see more psi but no luck.
 
Does the scretch kinda sound like tires burning out kinda? Mind does the same thing and cant figure it out.
 
scat said:
Does the scretch kinda sound like tires burning out kinda? Mind does the same thing and cant figure it out.
Click to expand...

Yep. Can't figure it out. Did it before the rebuild too.
All boots and connections are fine. New head, new billet intake plate and gaskets. Top turbo rebuilt, no visible leaks And have checked for boost Leaks and got nothing. Removed all the pop off valves
 
Heard here.



[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0bwVtuNYGQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0bwVtuNYGQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/ame]
 
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