Ultimate 40 spline dana 80

44crawler

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Nov 22, 2014
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First post here guys. I've been gathering parts and info on building a little different setup than a pull truck rear dana 80 but rather a rear steer 40 spline with dodge kingpin dana 60 outters.
I've found some good info in here and I thought I'd share my plans and ideas on this build.

Started with a '04, F450, 37 spline D80 and a Dodge( not sure year) kingpin axle.
EB60D113-0A44-4583-934C-C3310D4CC1E6-151-0000000B7700E783_zpsd0daf160.jpg

Paid only $200 for the d80 and $600 for the d60.

After reasearch I found the 37 spline d80 from a f450 should have massive 11/16" tubes! After cutting off spindles to desired length to make a 73" wms I found this was true

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Chopped up the d60 from the C's out..

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Now with this setup the biggest concern on putting them together is the 4" tube sliding into a 3 1/4" inner ID of the dana 60 C.
So without boring the crap out of the C, I decided I'm going to bolt the outter d60 with a 3/4" flange with 1/2" bolts with the ability to clock pinion angle and pull ends for easy repair or maintenance
Like this
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I have a shop that will burn out the 4 rings with 2 having a 4" ID and 2 with 3.25" ID but same bolt pattern.

My inner axle shafts I purchased CTM 300m joints as well as paid a half deposit on CTM 300m shafts.
Here's where I decided I will upgrade to bigger 1.75" 40 spline shafts after realizing all the same cost to go bigger as he starts with a 1.75 blank.
Jack at CTM took some measurements on a set of d80 ,37 spline spiders he has kicking around and found the have enough meat to be broached to 40.
I mailed out my 37 spline spiders yesterday to be broached to 40 and I just plan to weld a spool for now with no steering concerns as it will be powered by a PSC 2.75x8 double ended ram anyway.
I've purchased 5:13 gears as well.
CTM will also be making me a set of d60 hub drive flanges out of 300m.
 
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My concerns on this axle is the d80 yoke straps. This diff has a 1480 yoke which I'd like to use but I'm thinking I might make my own strap girdles.
Seems easy. Just punch 1-3/8" hole in a piece of 3/4" plate and cut out shape to fit...

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How many of you guys break stock straps anyway?

Next is my concern on axle twist under load. I'm debating on a top truss still out of maybe 3/16 plate from end to end with possible front truss incorporated into diff cover or just run an aluminum girdle cover.
Psc steering ram will be above top of diff on truss.

Here's a shot of what axle will look like when done but again full hydro steering
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This is the rig it will be going in the back of..

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Any tips or pointers on truss, yokes, straps , girdle covers ect to build it to the extreme are welcome.
Thanks guys
 
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Nice Work! I would have used half as many bolts on the flange. But that's the truck puller in me always looking to save wight.
 
How do you do the 40 spline axles through the D80 carrier? If I recall the bearing is a 2.25" bearing. So you open the carrier to clear the 1.75 axle, doesn't that take away from the strength of the carrier? I could see if you are using a spool and splining the spool clear out past the bearing, and then splining the axles out that far as well. Then the axle/carrier would be contributing to the strength. I have seen a few of the D80's sheer the at the bearing/carrier point.
 
How do you do the 40 spline axles through the D80 carrier? If I recall the bearing is a 2.25" bearing. So you open the carrier to clear the 1.75 axle, doesn't that take away from the strength of the carrier? I could see if you are using a spool and splining the spool clear out past the bearing, and then splining the axles out that far as well. Then the axle/carrier would be contributing to the strength. I have seen a few of the D80's sheer the at the bearing/carrier point.

The axle shaft is going from 1.625(37 spline) to a broached side gear of 1.75(40 spline) so clearance through bearing should clear I'm almost certain but never actually measured the ID. Not cutting carrier at all. Just broaching the spiders. I am a little confused at what your concerns are though as well.

And your saying you've seen the carrier break at the bearing ends? This is the reason why I posted this here as you guys put this stuff to the ultimate limits! ; )
What's the best diff cover you guys suggest? Was planning on a 3/8 plate one but the aluminum girdle sounds better if carrier ends break.

Maybe one like this I currently have on my d70?

rear.jpg
 
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The axle shaft is going from 1.625(37 spline) to a broached side gear of 1.75(40 spline) so clearance through bearing should clear I'm almost certain but never actually measured the ID. Not cutting carrier at all. Just broaching the spiders. I am a little confused at what your concerns are though as well.

And your saying you've seen the carrier break at the bearing ends? This is the reason why I posted this here as you guys put this stuff to the ultimate limits! ; )
What's the best diff cover you guys suggest? Was planning on a 3/8 plate one but the aluminum girdle sounds better if carrier ends break.

It sheered right at the carrier. Basically between the carrier and the bearing on the driverside. There may be enough clearance in the factory carrier to allow the 1.75 axle. I don't have one in front of me.
 
Just looked it up. Carrier bearing is 2.25 " ID so clearance is not a issue..


Yes, I understand that, however what is the ID of the carrier? Do you have to remove material from the carrier to get the axle to slide inside the carrier?
 
I don't have it in front of me. Rig is hours away.
But I get what your saying now..
40 spline axles are actually 1.71"
So 2.25 minus 1.71= .540
So basically if the end bearing journal is thicker than 1/4"(.250) times that by 2(top and bottom material of hole) being .500 than it may not clear so I see the tolerance being close. I asked this question on pirate in the D80 bible ..
 
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I don't have it in front of me. Rig is hours away.
But I get what your saying.
40 spline axles are actually 1.71"
So 2.25 minus 1.71= .540
So basically if the end bearing journal is thicker than 1/4"(.250) times that by 2(top and bottom material of hole) being .500 than it may not clear so I see the tolerance being close. I asked this question on pirate in the D80 bible ..


Yea if I could have drawn a picture LOL.

I think a spool with long spline engagement would help alot.
 
Here is the my ARB carnage.
 

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Nice ARB carnage ^.
I've come to realize everything CAN break! 40 spline spool is probably my best bet but I'm going to try this broached,welded open carrier with preheat and slow cool post heat welded with a 7018 stick rod. By the way I am a welder/fitter by trade so weld processes are not a big deal and I have all the necessary tools. I'm going to try and put in a order to get the tube bolted flange rings cut this week so I can get this thing mocked up and final measure for inner shafts and determined wms width.

I've started plate/gusseting the knuckles for extra strength.

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I warmed then up hot in a BBQ then welded it with ni55 cast iron rod

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I wanted the gussets done with cast rod then the rest I'll burn in with wire feed. Guys have good luck with wire as I've found and the cast rods were about $60 for 20 of them. They knuckles will end up like this with 1/4" plate between gussets though.

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Steering arm I plan to add to the sides of them and tie the arm to the bottom hole of knuckle with a 7/8 threaded rod. This will help transfer load top and bottom.

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I've order a set of Northwestfab new full hydro steering arms. I bought their first set. They're local to me. Stoked to put these in use. I'll see them next week. Made from 2" plate steel. http://www.northwestfab.com/Dana-60-Double-Shear-Hydraulic-Steering-Arms-Pair_p_839.html

The full hydro ram will be the same as the above pic. Not my diff. Mines still in 3 pieces lol
They're made nice and long for extra leverage and has a pocket machined for a 7/8 heim and a 3/4" bolt on double shear

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