Vibration

SuperDave4x4

SuperDave4x4

popcorn playa
Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Messages
3,416
Just like clock work. I finally get a nest egg saved up and problems hit the truck.

I'm getting a slight vibration under normal acceleration. It's noticeable most at 25-35 mph under light throttle and seems to go away once i pass 35mph. Today was the worst that its done it and I started to notice it around thursday or friday. So far I've checked my hubs, u-joints and the fluids in my rear end and transfer case but everything checked out ok.

Where else should I look?
 
It could possibly be the torque convertor shuttering.. Thats kinda like a goose chase. Did you happen to check your tire pressure or it could be a tire out of balance too
 
Also check ur u-joints and inspect your drive shaft. Possibly have just a ujoint going bad or slung a balance weight off you drive shaft. Also check for dents in your drive shaft. My regcab 01 had a vibration and it was just the ujoints.
 
I had the same symptoms ... the stator in the TC was severly out of balance and the hub was bent due to over powering it ..... had to buy a new TC .... a worthy buy in my book ....
 
Upon further inspection I found that I do have some play in the u joint closest to the transfer case for the rear drive shaft. Now I'm not sure if this is the culprit but it does need to be changed. So with that said I will report back with the results tomorrow evening.
 
yeah ... i did the car quest HD single disc and even with my account it was just shy of $500.00 ..... wife was not impressed ....... she is not though ... now to tell her about the 5 star I really want ..LOL.. $1300.00 later ... that damn thing better make soup and sandwiches to impress her ...LOL
 
I know what you mean!! I got my 01 with the tranny out n Tony my mechnic told me to expect 1200 to 1500 for the tc!! I think he is going with a ats triple disk converter but not sure. I will find out with the cost Tom. I still have 42 trucks in front of mine so it's going to be awhile before we get to it. Lol
 
Ok I couldn't get it press out with it installed on the truck. I rented a two jaw puller and put the impact to it but it didn't budge. I was going to take it to a shop in the morning but now I think I'm just gonna pull the entire shaft out and take just the shaft to a shop and have them remove the old u joint and install the new one.

The tail shaft coming out of the tranfer case just slides right out correct?
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
Ok I couldn't get it press out with it installed on the truck. I rented a two jaw puller and put the impact to it but it didn't budge. I was going to take it to a shop in the morning but now I think I'm just gonna pull the entire shaft out and take just the shaft to a shop and have them remove the old u joint and install the new one.

The tail shaft coming out of the tranfer case just slides right out correct?
Click to expand...

yep, just 4 bolts at the yoke on the axle (8mm) and yank it out... put a drain pan under the Transfer case as it may drain a bit when you pull it.... U-joints are easy to change with a hammer... just sayin, unless they are original, then you will need a torch to heat the factory plasti crap they put around them.... there will be some little plastic nipple looking things if that stuff is still there.
 
i hated those damn things when I worked for the local dealership ..... hate aluminum driveshafts too .... WTF ? like that dang thing is gonna take 390 hp ?? what r they thinking .... same with the tahoe's ....
 
Mudn_1 said:
yep, just 4 bolts at the yoke on the axle (8mm) and yank it out... put a drain pan under the Transfer case as it may drain a bit when you pull it.... U-joints are easy to change with a hammer... just sayin, unless they are original, then you will need a torch to heat the factory plasti crap they put around them.... there will be some little plastic nipple looking things if that stuff is still there.
Click to expand...

I put my impact to that puller and they didn't budge so I went next door and borrowed a bigger impact and those suckers wouldn't move. They are the original ones. I've got a pan on stand by for the excess fluid. I may try to jack up the rear some to hopefully keep most of the fluid in.

My buddies and I have changed u joints on their jeep YJs many times, but I guess it easier when the drive shaft gets slung out from having too much fun off road. :hehe: EDIT once we put the slip yoke eliminator in it helped the drive shaft launching problem. LOL
 
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SuperDave4x4 said:
I put my impact to that puller and they didn't budge so I went next door and borrowed a bigger impact and those suckers wouldn't move. They are the original ones. I've got a pan on stand by for the excess fluid. I may try to jack up the rear some to hopefully keep most of the fluid in.

My buddies and I have changed u joints on their jeep YJs many times, but I guess it easier when the drive shaft gets slung out from having too much fun off road. :hehe: EDIT once we put the slip yoke eliminator in it helped the drive shaft launching problem. LOL
Click to expand...

LOL, yeah they just need a bit of heat and you will see that **** run out... then they will come right out..
 
New U-joint is in and the vibration is gone. Thank the Lord!

I took the driveshaft to a "Tire Kingdom" and I knew what I was getting myself into by going to this shop. This mechanic made me nervous as hell, but we got it.

But as I stated the vibration is gone. Now my dilemma is the plug that came with the Moog Super Strength 295 U-joint. It doesnt fit properly in the cap so it's loose as hell. I believe I'm just going to use one of the press in grease zerk fittings in place of the loose ass plug. I didn't know about this until the U-joint was in and done. The shop didn't mess it up, but Moog must have some quality control issues??
 
That's not typical moog quality ..... I hate to say it but trll theplace where u bought it about the problem and see if they have a good solution to the problem ....... really odd .... Moog is Quality ..... been using for years and years ....
 
Called moog at lunch and they said it must a number 620 flush mount grease fitting in the kit instead of a number 621. He told me to call the place I got the part from and ask them to get me a number 621. So I'll be stopping by there right after work to see what we can come up with.

And as for Moog quality.. When I first replaced all my steering TREs everything cam painted and looked nice, but the last time I got the same parts only one was painted. RockAuto said they must be trying to cut costs to compete with other companies when I called to ask why the parts were bare metal. This was only a theory though..
 
Glad that the ujoint fixed it!! Just try getting a grease zerk that will fit. I farm so I keep a assortment of them on hand, metrics and standard. Should be a easy fix.
 
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