Voltage on ppump TPS

J

johnfak

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May 1, 2011
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Hey guys

Need a voltage reference for someone running a ppump conversion with a TPS.
I'm having problems with lockup under mild throttle and think this might be the issue. Basically it requires 10% throttle instead of 2% throttle (picking guess numbers) to lockup at 45+mph (OD on) for example.

Currently its set to 0.53v at idle and 3.2v at WOT.

Just need to see what you have it set to ...... and what voltage you see at idle and lockup.
 
The tps should have the idle voltage for that particular APPS printed on a sticker on the back of it.
 
No APPS.

TPS from a 12v.


Spoke with a builder and he mentioned that lockup is computer controlled ...... and the fact lockup works its not a VB issue. Likely the voltage is off ...... and I need to confirm what I'm seeing compared to someone else.
 
So let me get this straight. You have 24v and your using a 12v tps?
 
MAXTORQ said:
So let me get this straight. You have 24v and your using a 12v tps?
Click to expand...

This ^^^

I am currently a little confused as to what is going on...

If this is the case then you are going to have trouble finding very many people to compare with.
 
That and fact that a TPS resting voltage is different to that of a APPS sensor. And so is the over all range.

12 and 24v PCMs are different in reading these voltages.
 
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Correct 24v with a 12v TPS.

Its been done before and just requires splicing of the wires .... allows throttle linkage to bolt right up.

So really need someone with a similar setup that can read the middle wire and show idle voltage as well as possibly a voltage at lockup.

thx
 
johnfak said:
Bump someone has same setup
Click to expand...


I always did a potentiometer on p pump conversions but was wondering if you've tried changing the TPS itself with a new one? on my 12 valve when the TPS starts to crap out it takes a little more throttle to get it to shift o/d and lockup or it will kick out when trying to maintain cruising speeds. Have to be into the throttle to keep it in o/d or lockup.
 
I'm running a 12v tps with my PPump conversion.

I can work on a voltage this week for you and report back.

What are you defining as your lock up issue via mild throttle?
 
Ktown6.0 said:
I'm running a 12v tps with my PPump conversion.

I can work on a voltage this week for you and report back.

What are you defining as your lock up issue via mild throttle?
Click to expand...

Hey man - thx - its the middle signal wire. Just want to know what its reading at idle.

On a side note - starting to think I have a bad TPS with a dead spot. Funnily enough was just reworking this issue today
 
I've been through three tps units from the parts house. Each one would cause a lock up problem when going bad. This last one, each under warranty, has done the trick.
 
Yeah it seems to have a dead spot
Just need to validate somehow so looking for a used tps

Beyond that thinking either go back to APPS and apps bracket .... or even a POT but dont know if that works on a 24v same as it does on 12v
 
Usually when they go, it isn't a dead spot, it's intermittent. If you have a cheapo multimeter, you wont see it. If you have a Fluke with that active bar on the bottom, it'll drop while you move it.

Also, you friend is correct. OD and TC LU are controlled by the computer. Your line pressure and 1st-2nd, and 2nd-3rd shifting is done largely by your TV Cable. Most wiring in buttons for these to have full control. On/Off for OD, and a three way with off/normal/on for the lock up.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Usually when they go, it isn't a dead spot, it's intermittent. If you have a cheapo multimeter, you wont see it. If you have a Fluke with that active bar on the bottom, it'll drop while you move it.

Also, you friend is correct. OD and TC LU are controlled by the computer. Your line pressure and 1st-2nd, and 2nd-3rd shifting is done largely by your TV Cable. Most wiring in buttons for these to have full control. On/Off for OD, and a three way with off/normal/on for the lock up.
Click to expand...

Thx.
What I noticed yesterday when fiddling with the throttle rod was that once I hit 0.5V and continued to increase the throttle ...... it went to 0.6A, 0.7A and then dropped to almost 0 (50mA) for a reasonable amount of throttle and then reengaged signal around 1.1A up to almost 3A without further drop.

So definately looks like a dead spot, tested with multimeter. Would also explain why under light throttle and speeds over 35mph I cant lockup without giving it more throttle.

Id consider the TPS delete (POT) but unsure if this works on a 24V with a TPS spliced in ...... else looking for a used TPS thats good to test my theory without dropping $150.
 
stubz616 said:
I always did a potentiometer on p pump conversions but was wondering if you've tried changing the TPS itself with a new one? on my 12 valve when the TPS starts to crap out it takes a little more throttle to get it to shift o/d and lockup or it will kick out when trying to maintain cruising speeds. Have to be into the throttle to keep it in o/d or lockup.
Click to expand...
Did you do the tps delete with the POT on 24v ppump conversion ?
Or just on a regular 12v
 
johnfak said:
Did you do the tps delete with the POT on 24v ppump conversion ?
Or just on a regular 12v
Click to expand...


I used to have a POT on my '95 in my sig but switched back to a normal TPS.
I have also installed them on P Pump conversions using the original wiring from the truck just cut from the APPS plug.
 
stubz616 said:
I used to have a POT on my '95 in my sig but switched back to a normal TPS.
I have also installed them on P Pump conversions using the original wiring from the truck just cut from the APPS plug.
Click to expand...
So it works for a ppump conversion on a 24v..... not a 1st gen ? DnR customs wasn't sure if it would.

Why did you go back to tps.
 
johnfak said:
So it works for a ppump conversion on a 24v..... not a 1st gen ? DnR customs wasn't sure if it would.

Why did you go back to tps.
Click to expand...

For some reason my truck stopped working with it and kept having to replace them frequently. plugged it back into a new TPS from Napa and it worked and i never cared to go back to one. i was trying to clean up some of the wiring under the hood anyway. I did like how the truck drove better with the POT though, shifted 3-4 locked without a lockup switch flipped and would hold lockup and help compression brake down to a certain speed then would unlock on its own. the TPS unlocks the converter on the 3-4 shift and as soon as you let off at any point it unlocks unless you have the lockup switch on.
 
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