Water to Air IC?

CaptainChrysler

CaptainChrysler

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Feb 8, 2008
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I am looking at several water to air IC's. Who has had experience with these? I am looking to put it on the '89. I would prefer 3" inlet/outlet to match the piping, but some are 3.5 with the same core size. I figure 3" would allow the use of "hump" couplers rather than reducers, as it will be mounted to the inner fender. Will the inlet /outlet size affect performance?

Are the ones on eBay for $150-$200 any good?
 
they are all about the same and if you watch yuo can get one for under a hundred

I been usin a 3" in 3" out $100 special from Ebay for two and a half years with zero issues
 
what gains have you seen from the"$100 intercooler".wondering what the dif is between a $200 one and a $2000 one.
 
from what i can see - so long as they are bar n plate design - there is no appreciable difference except the weight of yur wallet when yur done
 
Get ahold of Pure Diesel Power. I talked with a guy at an event in Wisconsin last year that knew alot about them. It wasnt Garrett though. Wanted to say it was Joe? Just have to call and ask. He actually had a real nice one on his truck for sale.
 
The difference is that the one that costs $2000 actually flow enough air to make a difference. The core size of that one isn't big enough to even bother with!
 
07dodge said:
The difference is that the one that costs $2000 actually flow enough air to make a difference. The core size of that one isn't big enough to even bother with!
Click to expand...

I agree, does kinda look small. might even blow it apart!?!?:charger:
 
Just make sure it will hold all of the boost you plan on throwing in it. It's not much fun to spend a lot of $ and time getting the bugs worked out to finally split the tank right off of the IC.
I got mine from a super farm tractor, mounted it between the seats, and got the boots to stay in 1 piece and split the darn thing in half. It was made to hold around 80 and didn't like above 120. A lot of those eBay ICs are rated for like 20-30.
 
actually most of the Ebay ic's are tested to 80 psi, and mine has seen 55 psi regularly for two and a half years with no issues

As to airflow most are rated at 1-2 psi drop at 30 psi test and I suspect the $2000 entry doesnt do any better

Even if I did blow a tank, at <$100 I can buy a more than a couple new Ic's as compared to a $2000 one

If your concerned as to pressure drop, airflow etc get the numbers from the expensive guys and then compare to the Ebay ones - you will be very surprised

.03
 
This thing is supposedly rated at 80 psi and 1500 CFM.

I plan to limit it to 60 psi.

I am probably going to try it. I wil check for the pressure drop accross it.
 
seeker1056 said:
actually most of the Ebay ic's are tested to 80 psi, and mine has seen 55 psi regularly for two and a half years with no issues

As to airflow most are rated at 1-2 psi drop at 30 psi test and I suspect the $2000 entry doesnt do any better

Even if I did blow a tank, at <$100 I can buy a more than a couple new Ic's as compared to a $2000 one

If your concerned as to pressure drop, airflow etc get the numbers from the expensive guys and then compare to the Ebay ones - you will be very surprised

.03
Click to expand...

I doubt that little one will flow 2,000 cfm very well. It'll shoke up so bad. There is not enough surface area also. Mine has a cfm rating close to 2,000 with a 1 psi loss. It also has an efficiency rating of 89-91%
 
the point of the IC is heat loss in the intake air

the only real difference is how much heat can be taken away by any particular IC

Is $2000 vs $120 worth an extra 10-20 degrees temp drop

With ice water I can hit ambient with the cheapy

At the end of the day unless someone has back to back dyno testing to show gains/losses using both I would suggest you use what your budget can afford

Good luck
 
I know on my truck, the difference between 80 degree water and 32 degree water is almost 200 cfm and close to 60 wheel. Extra 20 degrees.... yes, it is always worth it.
 
if memory serves, 10 degrees intake temp is only 1 hp on just about any fueled motor you care to name - I would be very very interested to see how you obtained your numbers in real life

How did you measure the 200cfm with out a dyno hat and a lot of probes and very expensive air flow equipment very very few shops have or could even afford. - especially measured under boost?

every 10 degrees air temp, equates to about 1/2 psi boost increase in my experience, but a couple pounds boost is not a 200 cfm increase - its about air density - same amount of air flow, just a lot denser air

It is the denser air, ergo more oxygen available, that makes more power
 
seeker1056 said:
if memory serves, 10 degrees intake temp is only 1 hp on just about any fueled motor you care to name - I would be very very interested to see how you obtained your numbers in real life

How did you measure the 200cfm with out a dyno hat and a lot of probes and very expensive air flow equipment very very few shops have or could even afford. - especially measured under boost?

every 10 degrees air temp, equates to about 1/2 psi boost increase in my experience, but a couple pounds boost is not a 200 cfm increase - its about air density - same amount of air flow, just a lot denser air

It is the denser air, ergo more oxygen available, that makes more power
Click to expand...

I never said i increased boost. I increased hp.... meaning i was able to condense the air going into my small turbo thus moving more O2 with out added boost. If you do the turbo mapping, it does come close to 200 cfm with the temp difference.

I don't really care what anyone may say.... it worked on my truck on back to back dyno runs with no programming changes or anything else. Simple as that. People can do whatever they want.... it's cool you have the cheap one. Right on.... Mine worked on my truck.... If you want a good talk about intercooling, talk to Bell Intercooling (Gerhard). He'll explain things to you.
 
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