Welding rear differential tubes

I am about to weld mine. Planned on 2 inch sections and take my time. Didn't plan on welding them solid, don't see the point. Weld 2 inches and leave 2 inches.

phone
 
I had mine and jacked the axle up right under the spring perches.

Then the guy that welded them used "super missile rod" and just stitched welded them alternating from one side to the next
 
On a mud bog truck I used to have, it rotated the pinion up. After trying everything possible to rotate back down I just cut the perches off and set it back to wear it was and mig welded the tubes with a 250 amp welder. That's been years ago and is still holding.
 
I have mig welded a couple and stick welded a couple. Main thing is that it gets burned in good. Either way pre heat the cast, weld it, and call it good. Also it would probably not be easy to find super missile rod. My dad has a few left over from 30 years ago. UTP 65 is probably easier to find although 7018 will do the job just fine.
 
Any truth to the bearings getting pitted from the current path?
Or...just keep the ground as close as possible to the welding?
 
The super missile rod is still available. I don't remember, the specifics, but he still bought it. It had a lot of tensile and ability to really expand if I remember correctly.

I would be extremely careful of the heat applied. One of the other guys I worked with did a lot of custom rear end work, and said he had yet to see a tube that doesn't pull after it has been welded.
 
Extended Power said:
Any truth to the bearings getting pitted from the current path?
Or...just keep the ground as close as possible to the welding?
Click to expand...

Absolutely. Always ground as close to the weld as possible, and never have it pass through bearings. Good way to ruin them.
 
I would be extremely careful of the heat applied. One of the other guys I worked with did a lot of custom rear end work, and said he had yet to see a tube that doesn't pull after it has been welded.[/QUOTE]

A 300* preheat will help this because it won't be shocking the steel nearly as bad when the arc is started. Then if cooled slowly, it wont stress the metal as bad either. Welding stresses steel more than most realize. It's standard procedure to heat pipe to 225+ before welding it for a reason.
 
4 90 degree 1/4" tacks Tig with Er70-S6 and get to work. ER70-S2 Holds more heat and doesn't flow as much kinda like a out a position weld hence why it kept cracking.

Besure the tube and housing are clean of any grease, use a torch head and warm them up to be sure they are clean but dont over do it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top