Welding table

roachie

roachie

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Nov 2, 2007
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Ive been operating in the floor and on makeshift things for a long time. Currently a 16ga steel workbench is my table.

Over the years I have developed a distaste for tables that move. The current plan is a 4x8' 1" plate that is a little over waist high. The legs to support it are a bit of a stopping point for me.

Originally was thinking of 2x2" by 3/8" angle but that will be a pain in the ass to fit up, one of the guys at work suggested I use box tubing, but I cannot think of the proper wall thickness needed. The top sheet will weigh 1300lb + I would like to be able to support at least 3000lb on it.

Suggestions?
 
I have a four foot square one with two of the legs being 3 inch square tubing and the back side welded to a three inch pipe that supports the beam for the second story and also a hoist. Never had it move. I've seen them with three to four inch angle iron for legs also. Quarter inch thickness is enough. Two inch angle may not be quit enough but I always overbuild.

Thick tables are nice, I've welded brackets and stuff to it. Cut them loose and grind it flat again. Thinking about another on the other post for the chop saw and the dirtier work.
 
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If you want it to never move use 3x3x1/4 square tubing. That should support all the weight you want. If you are using a mig to weld it together make sure you have really clean joints as migs are weak links in welding heavy metal. You would be better off using 7018- 5/32" stick seam welded all around and it would be strong enough to support your truck. lol
 
4" square tube, 1/4" wall for what you are doing. The 2x2 angle isn't even close to being stiff enough, unless you also run it horizontally all the way around the bottom as bracing....and some gussets.

4" wide flange (some folks call that "I-beam" but it's not) would also work without a lot of additional support.
 
I was thinking the supports would be made into a box frame with the table welded too it. 3" of overhang with vertical braces in 3 or 4 places along the length and and lower shelf made from expanded metal to hold randoms.
 
If you are building a braced stand for it to set on the two inch will probably work. I welded the legs on mine with no braces but the pole anchored to the slab and building offers stability. 1 inch plate is a little overkill unless you already have it. The one I use is 3/4 that was left over from building brackets. I would say 1/2 inch would work.
 
roachie said:
I was thinking the supports would be made into a box frame with the table welded too it. 3" of overhang with vertical braces in 3 or 4 places along the length and and lower shelf made from expanded metal to hold randoms.
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I'll try to get a pic of our shops table. Made of 48x6x1" slats with pockets bolts. 3 cross braces. 2" between each slat. He can unbolt and move the slats outward so the table is bigger or remove slats to allow for awkward parts
 
huck25 said:
If you want it to never move use 3x3x1/4 square tubing. That should support all the weight you want. If you are using a mig to weld it together make sure you have really clean joints as migs are weak links in welding heavy metal. You would be better off using 7018- 5/32" stick seam welded all around and it would be strong enough to support your truck. lol
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If your using a 110 .030 wire yes, but if you had a decent 220 with .045 wire and knew what you were doing It wouldn't be any issue.
 
We have a 3'x8' table, 3/8" thick, with a 2" .250" wall frame and gusseted legs. Not huge but big enough to handle about anything we do.
 
I have a 3'x6' 3/4" top plate 4" sch 80 pipe for legs, plenty stout for anything I will do.

Sent from my GT-I9300
 
BluegrassDiesel said:
We have a 3'x8' table, 3/8" thick, with a 2" .250" wall frame and gusseted legs. Not huge but big enough to handle about anything we do.
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Thats the size of table I intend to make, although I'll use 4" C-channel for the frame under, since I have it laying around and its free. 4' is just too deep when placed up against a wall, can't reach the outlets.

I'd look at putting some casters on it that are on jack bolts, so you can lower them down to move it around without adjusting the legs.
 
Tate said:
Thats the size of table I intend to make, although I'll use 4" C-channel for the frame under, since I have it laying around and its free. 4' is just too deep when placed up against a wall, can't reach the outlets.

I'd look at putting some casters on it that are on jack bolts, so you can lower them down to move it around without adjusting the legs.
Click to expand...


That's exactly why we went with 3' instead of 4, so you could reach the wall outlet and the switch for the overhead light.
 
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