What for the 47rh?

jaechum90

jaechum90

open hood, insert wallet
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
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4
I have a 1990 auto first gen, with an increasingly bad 727. planning on inserting a 47rh:woohoo:, but would like to know what all i should get for the rebuild, as i am not familiar with its weak points. i am planning to get a beasty converter, good rebuild kit(suncoast or some other good suggestion), what else should i get for it? is there anything else to do internally to make it hold up better? also, i have read about shortening/lengthening the drive shafts, anyone know how by how much? and will the 47 connect to the np205 with what i will have?

my truck:
stock height&drivetrain
4" straight exh
pump maxed
wh1c cold side, stock hot side(around 38 psi):st:
stock bottom end
head studs
5x.020 injectors

down the road:
the 47rh
probably a beasty ve
probably a cam
twin with hx52 and ?
shooting for 450-under600 HP for now
 
ACE did the 47rh swap and almost a 100 hp increase u will need the flexplate 2nd Gen starter and im forgetting something.
 
I have the block adapter flex plate and starter if your interested. You'll need a different tranny mount. JQmile told me a while back what mount he used but i can't remember at the moment.
 
ARS267 said:
I have the block adapter flex plate and starter if your interested. You'll need a different tranny mount. JQmile told me a while back what mount he used but i can't remember at the moment.
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Chevy rear mount. 2bolt style. Older camero style.
 
When I did the swap, stock vs. stock, the flex plates were the same. IIRC, I took something like 21" out of my driveshaft. The 4wd 727 may be longer though, but I don't see why. Measure, don't take my word. :hehe: The little thing that most people forget is the 3 pin connector for lock up, O/D, and 12v hot. Otherwise it's straight forward.

3.07s, lock up, and O/D make for a good cruiser.
 
I have the flex and block plates i was gonna get a reman starter and use fm (f****** magic) or other means for the plug, unless it is on the trans. i have read a lot on doing the swap, i wanted to know what all i should buy/do to the trans before it goes in, because i am a little lost on whose what is best and which little extra i should get. i was kinda leaning towards this:

Sun Coast Diesel TransmissionsDodge 47RE "M3GA"-2 Transmission Rebuild Kit 1994 - 2002 | Catalog Products | Sun Coast Diesel Transmissions

unless there are major objections

and it only has 4.10's:doh:
 
goerend has good parts I've heard if your gonna do it yourself. It all comes down to personal preference in the end really. You will hear good and bad about every company, just depends on who you talk to. I went from the 518 to the 47rh in my reg cab. Front driveshaft reaches fine, rear driveshaft is actually a bit long now and will bottom out on the slip yoke if I load it heavy. I've been tryin to just break the dang thing and get one made rather than have this driveshaft shortened. Also had to cut/slot the transmission mounting holes in the crossmember since the transmission will be slid back about another 1" with the thicker adapter plate. 4wd linkage will most likely need modified too. I had to shorten my linkage rod and take a grinder to a few spots on the mount to get it to line up and engage like it did before. And since you will be mounting it up to the np205, pop the seal out of the back of the trans, and just use a lot of rtv silicone on the mating surfaces when you bolt them up to seal the trans to the transfer case. The coupler will not go on the output shaft of the trans all the way if that seal is in there if I remember right.

But yep like others said, 2nd gen adapter plate, 2nd gen starter, and probably a 2nd gen flexplate. I've heard some people say they are the same, and others say the 2nd gen stock ones are a bit thicker/stronger than the original 1st gen ones but thats just what i've been told. Personally I cracked my stock original flexplate with just my a518 and went to a billet one along with other billet parts when I went to my 47rh. Since you have a 727, driveshaft lengths and probably the crossmember will be different like others said, but you can make it work. I've found out on most things on these old trucks is that you just gotta dig in and find/figure most things out on your own.
 
Why do you have to run a second gen starter? I've seen people run first gen ones just fine. The 1st gen starter looks like a stronger starter in my opinion.
 
cmann250 said:
That's personal preference. If you like to put it in drive and go, yes it will be worth it to you. If you like total control, switches are alot cheaper.
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has anyone done this swap and used this kit or made something similar? what's your opinion?
 
You haven't said what you're gonna do with that "450-under600 HP".

Your answer can alter what you put into the trans-case. ;)
 
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junkyard dog said:
has anyone done this swap and used this kit or made something similar? what's your opinion?
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I did this swap in an 89 2wd truck. In my opinion, flipping switches wasn't that big of a deal. Some guys like to have either lock up or O/D on the floor like an old style high beam switch to free up their hands. It's not worth the $325 that PATC wants for their kit in my opinion.

Rearend gears should be a factor too. There is a big gap between 3rd and O/D with 3.07 gears. I'm not sure the options the kit gives you would be enough to shift and not lug the engine down pretty bad.
 
I just feel like if im going to have to flip switches, I might as well install the g56 that's in my shop floor. Want anyone to be able to just hop in truck and drive it if need be.
 
I've got my over drive on the floor via a dimmer switch and i love it, very convinent and awesome for racing
 
junkyard dog said:
I just feel like if im going to have to flip switches, I might as well install the g56 that's in my shop floor. Want anyone to be able to just hop in truck and drive it if need be.
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Hell that leaves out the g56 anymore! I know what you mean though, gotta have a training session to drive my pos.
 
$350 isn't that bad versus having to flip switches all the time. It's fun to have control, but they made autos for a reason-convenience.
 
Yea, it can also be done with pressure switches. I haven't decided how I'm gonna do mine, but it will be able to be auto.
 
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