What keepers and retainers to hold 4000 RPM?

Begle1

Active member
I'm trying to build my engine to be happy at 4000 RPM. And it's theoretically a daily driver.

I got some titanium retainers and hardened keepers from Haisley to that end, but now I hear that titanium isn't recommended for a daily driver application. Research before you buy, yo. :doh:

So what should I run? Can I get hardened or stainless retainers and keepers from anywhere that'd keep my valvetrain together?
 
if i understand things correctly, our 60# springs only have about 200 or so psi over the nose

The stock retainers should hold that no problem at 4000 or less rpm

In our gasser motors we never changed out retainers till hittin 250-300 or so psi and 6500 rpm
 
I'm trying to build my engine to be happy at 4000 RPM. And it's theoretically a daily driver.

I got some titanium retainers and hardened keepers from Haisley to that end, but now I hear that titanium isn't recommended for a daily driver application. Research before you buy, yo. :doh:

So what should I run? Can I get hardened or stainless retainers and keepers from anywhere that'd keep my valvetrain together?


Who keeps saying that titanium is not ok for a diesel, this is one of the most ridiculous statements I have ever heard. The only draw back to titanium is the cost.
Its funny that titanium is proclaimed bad from people that don’t have it , The reason I chose Titanium as a material for retainers is because the cost is only slightly more then the cost of Chromemolly. when you buy 2500 at a time , the cost is only a few dollars more.

These forums are full of people making the best product fit what they are selling.
 
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Not that it matters, but here are some valve train weights.

factory spring retainer--41 grams
titanium spring retainer--20 grams
factory valve spring--89 grams
60lb valve spring--91 grams
factory valve locks--1 gram (per pair)
billet vallve locks--7 grams
factory rocker arm--190 grams (long)(no adjuster or nut)
factory rocker arm--161 grams (short)(no adjuster or nut)
factory rocker arm adjuster--17 grams
aftermarket rocker adjuster--17 grams (has allen head instead of slot)
aftermarket rocker nut--4.5 grams (12-point arp)
aftermarket washer for under ARP nut-- 1 gram
factory lifter-- 99 grams
factory pushrod-- 104 grams
aftermarket pushrod-- 168 grams (manton pushrod 7/16-od .188 wall)

scot
 
I have had titanium retainers come apart in long endurance offshore boat applications. But these engines are under constant load spinning 6k for hours on end. People say the factory cummins keepers start to pull through at 4k? I have two motors one ve and the other p pump that have seen 4k quite often and there is nothin wrong with the factory keepers or retainers. In something that is normally going to be running in the 2k rpm range i dont really see why titanium retainers would be a problem? The problem with titanium though is that unlike steel it will not flex or bend it just snaps because it is so hard.
 
if you are worried about pull through upgrade form 7* to 10* reguardles of retainer.

seeing you alreaady shelle the cash for the titanum retainers use them.. put then on and forget about them...:hehe:
 
Here is what you need use, which is what you have.

I run them in my street motors AND in my race/pulling motors.

I ran stock retainers & keepers in my pulling truck 2 years ago and hit about 4k going down the track with about 15 hooks. When we pulled the head off 2 valves were VERY close to pulling through!

I say run Billet R&T's anywhere north of 3800 RPM's.
 
How many R's can I spin with my 99' till I start to float valves and need better springs and retainers? There is a TSB for curing cold weather idling that says to hold 3500 rpm for a minute to de gum valves. That is no load of course, but can a guy rev to 3600 with a 24 valve, stock cam, and 230K miles, or do valves float?
 
You should be fine at 3500rpm (that's about where my tranny shifts at WOT) but to be safe I'd keep it around 3200 with stock springs.
 
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