Wheelie bar on fwd

The sportsman champion with the jetta tdi runs airbags in the rear.

When I had.my colt, I found a quality adjustable strut with a firm spring( but not too firm for dd duties.) is the best all around.solution. get to track, set struts n roll out.
 
crackerman said:
The sportsman champion with the jetta tdi runs airbags in the rear.

When I had.my colt, I found a quality adjustable strut with a firm spring( but not too firm for dd duties.) is the best all around.solution. get to track, set struts n roll out.
Click to expand...

This car is already pretty firm. Thats why I'm looking for a track only fix, something to plan the front end down. I might just run some tractor weights like a puller.
 
This is what i ran in my cobalt when i had pedders springs. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BTO0EM?tag=viglink20745-20"]Amazon.com: AIR LIFT 60776 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412XHh5zjvL.@@AMEPARAM@@412XHh5zjvL[/ame] you'd obviously have to do some measuring
 
Wait a second. Those wont work with struts. Cobalts have coils and shocks in the rear. Haha sorry i drank to much.
 
AAir bags and kyb agx struts.
full hard to race dust softer for the ride home.
 
Why not limit the travel up front and work on getting the rear set up like normal? Is that basically what a wheelie bar is going to do, limit the front travel? Rear suspension tuning is still going to be the same or necessary I'd think.
 
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How much rear squat, or front lift does it have? There's a cool little thing sled pullers do to keep the front planted that might work on something like this.
 
I have played around with some fwd drag cars in the past.

Easy way:

-A good alignment, shocks that aren't worn right out, and limit straps up front, so that when it hits the limit strap the camber is a 0 and you have the most contact patch possible.

-Something with about a 1000lbs/inch spring in the back, guys have built solid stops like a sled pull truck that are adjustable and removable for the street, the only thing is that can get a little twitchy on the big end.

Some other notes:

-Wheelie bars work really well, they create an artificially longer / solid wheelbase and allow you to tune in the front, they also allow you to run a softer rear suspension and have better control on the big end.

-Anything under 140mph in the 1/4 really isn't too scary, but above that guys start disconnecting the rear brakes.

-Run a skinny tire with lot's of air pressure in the rear too.

-Learn to preload the suspension at the launch, your axles and diff and general drivetrain and wallet will thank you.

-Make sure there is no defuel when the clutch is in, as it will make a huge difference if you do no lift shifts. So once you launch you keep your right foot planted, and just clutch and shift and let it red line between. It will help keep the charger(s) lit between shifts.
 
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2Tone12V said:
Why not limit the travel up front and work on getting the rear set up like normal? Is that basically what a wheelie bar is going to do, limit the front travel? Rear suspension tuning is still going to be the same or necessary I'd think.
Click to expand...

It needs to be something I can remove or adjust very easily at the track. I like the limit strap idea. I imagine even with the front limited, the rear will still squat a little just because. The car used to be at 350hp and just blew the tires off with any boost. They were just radials, but still. I'm planning on running slicks, and a bit more power.

jones95runner said:
How much rear squat, or front lift does it have? There's a cool little thing sled pullers do to keep the front planted that might work on something like this.
Click to expand...

Not sure, it's been 2 years since the car ran with the old motor. Whats the sled puller trick? Besides 1000lbs off the front LOL

dvst8r said:
I have played around with some fwd drag cars in the past.

Easy way:

-A good alignment, shocks that aren't worn right out, and limit straps up front, so that when it hits the limit strap the camber is a 0 and you have the most contact patch possible.

-Something with about a 1000lbs/inch spring in the back, guys have built solid stops like a sled pull truck that are adjustable and removable for the street, the only thing is that can get a little twitchy on the big end.

Some other notes:

-Wheelie bars work really well, they create an artificially longer / solid wheelbase and allow you to tune in the front, they also allow you to run a softer rear suspension and have better control on the big end.

-Anything under 140mph in the 1/4 really isn't too scary, but above that guys start disconnecting the rear brakes.

-Run a skinny tire with lot's of air pressure in the rear too.

-Learn to preload the suspension at the launch, your axles and diff and general drivetrain and wallet will thank you.

-Make sure there is no defuel when the clutch is in, as it will make a huge difference if you do no lift shifts. So once you launch you keep your right foot planted, and just clutch and shift and let it red line between. It will help keep the charger(s) lit between shifts.
Click to expand...

That is excellent info. Thanks. pre loading is hard on my mentally with the manual, I'm always so scared to slip the clutch that much LOL That camber deal sounds like something so simple no one ever thinks about it. But they probably do and I'm just new to this fwd stuff.
 
I would look at moving weight around to get weight over the front, but I wouldn't add weight.

Also even a simple NHRA rollbar adds a HUGE amount of stiffness, a cage even more so. This really helps getting it to plant evenly and without hop.

Also obviously make sure engine and trans mounts are beefed up, as well as all your suspension pivot points are in good shape, wouldn't hurt to stiffen those up as well.

You would be surprised at how few people thing about the alignment and especially the camber.
 
I would like to publicly state my advice.

Don't race this car! Don't race the Purple Panty Eater! Get the HD Fab truck back on the race track!!!
 
dvst8r said:
I would look at moving weight around to get weight over the front, but I wouldn't add weight.

Also even a simple NHRA rollbar adds a HUGE amount of stiffness, a cage even more so. This really helps getting it to plant evenly and without hop.

Also obviously make sure engine and trans mounts are beefed up, as well as all your suspension pivot points are in good shape, wouldn't hurt to stiffen those up as well.

You would be surprised at how few people thing about the alignment and especially the camber.
Click to expand...

All already done. Except the cage.
SHughes said:
I would like to publicly state my advice.

Don't race this car! Don't race the Purple Panty Eater! Get the HD Fab truck back on the race track!!!
Click to expand...
Lol
 
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