When to sleeve a street/strip motor

C

cottondoc

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I’m planning a hot street/strip build with my 2006. Shooting for 1K at the tire just to have a goal. Truck will be street driven a lot with maybe 20 strip passes a year. Big single turbo setup, Carrillo rods, cummins pistons, Hamilton street cam, big injectors, big stroker cp3, fire rings, 625 studs and all supporting pieces. The shop I’m working with mentioned sleeving the block. When do you guys think sleeving a block is necessary, I mean what horsepower level? The current bores are pretty good. Could be run with a hone only. It’s a 6.7 factory block. Thanks for any information.


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cottondoc said:
I’m planning a hot street/strip build with my 2006. Shooting for 1K at the tire just to have a goal. Truck will be street driven a lot with maybe 20 strip passes a year. Big single turbo setup, Carrillo rods, cummins pistons, Hamilton street cam, big injectors, big stroker cp3, fire rings, 625 studs and all supporting pieces. The shop I’m working with mentioned sleeving the block. When do you guys think sleeving a block is necessary, I mean what horsepower level? The current bores are pretty good. Could be run with a hone only. It’s a 6.7 factory block. Thanks for any information.


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Not sure why 14-1500 keeps popping in my memory.
 
Gonna day 1000hp with any sort of longevity in mind.

You may also want to end up spraying into 1000+ lol
 
With a bigger single and some rpm you could keep the cylinder pressure down which would help but not be as street friendly. Getting into 4 digit horsepower is no joke, there aren’t any guarantees on what’s gonna hold together.
 
Thanks for the replies and info. I may not get to 1,000. It was just a number to help guide the build a little. Definitely want a built motor and had always planned on billet rods. Just didn’t realize people were sleeving blocks for street/strip 800-1000 builds these days. I know some people are street driving deck plate blocks so I guess it’s really up to what you want to spend. Thanks again for the info.


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Are you asking about the heavy walled sleeves, so you can run a 5.9 piston? Or just boring and sleeving the engine back to STD 6.7 bore?
 
For what it’s worth I daily drove a 1000hp 5.9 for 26k including towing on a big single not one issue and I’m currently running a 6.7 bored 20 over at 1100ish including towing and have not had one issue either. At your altitude a big single with a tight housing would be a blast
 
Mark Nixon said:
Had I known... :(



Mark.
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Sorry Mark! I didn’t know either. I never thought about sleeving the block until they mentioned it. Probably not going to do it. Like Josh said above, sounds like it might not be necessary in my case.


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Justappumped24v said:
For what it’s worth I daily drove a 1000hp 5.9 for 26k including towing on a big single not one issue and I’m currently running a 6.7 bored 20 over at 1100ish including towing and have not had one issue either. At your altitude a big single with a tight housing would be a blast
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Sounds good, Josh. Thanks for the info.


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cottondoc said:
Heavy walled sleeves to run a 5.9 piston.


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At 1000HP in a 6.7 I would sleeve it, in a 5.9 I wouldn't worry about it until 1400+hp. There are a bunch of people who dont have problems, however there are some that do. Fact is, the 6.7 cylinder walls have proven to be weaker at higher HP levels.
 
SPEEDSHIFT said:
At 1000HP in a 6.7 I would sleeve it, in a 5.9 I wouldn't worry about it until 1400+hp. There are a bunch of people who dont have problems, however there are some that do. Fact is, the 6.7 cylinder walls have proven to be weaker at higher HP levels.
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I would have to disagree 100% 6.7s are definitely stronger then 5.9s. The problem is the cylinder pressure is much higher much earlier in the rpm . 6.7s need a little more PTW to deal with the higher heat. I don’t see as many 6.7s blowing up as the tuning has improved. I’d take a 6.7 over a 5.9 any day that ends in y for strength and power
 
Couple months old thread, buuuut I'm building a 6.7 for my 78 K30 and will be making decent power and want to stay 6.7 displacement without going to a deckplate engine if possible. I've seen it mentioned here and other places about sleeving and keeping the 4.21 bore, I realize it'll add strength but how much more will it hold vs non-sleeved?
 
Application makes the difference, I seen many 6.7 fail sled pulling years ago before deck plates 5.9 cylinder wall is much thicker and stronger . Ask anyone with a engine dyno which engine unsleeved is stronger .
 
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