06 no communication issue kicking my a$$

if I have another harness here shouldn't I be able to just pin that out to a battery and obd port for now?
 
not to sure about this. dont you have to have the dealer do the flash for the new vin in the ecm? thats why is runs and stops? buddy had a similar problem while back. just can remember the whole story.
 
yes the keys will have to be flashed to the vin or it will do that run and shut off!
 
zfaylor said:
Buy yourself one of these dieselhead nd you can remove that dam rats nest. That would drive me nuts LOL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deutsch-Connector-Removal-Tool-20-AWG-Fast-shipping-from-California-USA-/331580362931?hash=item4d33bad0b3:g:hm8AAOSwsLtVeoCb&vxp=mtr
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I left the original ground and power wires since they are nice connections, the other rats nest is for the throttle pedal. If I was using the c1/c2 connectors for benching flashing only, I would have just the 5 wires I need to communicate with the ECM.
 
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What are you CAN bus voltage readings? You could have one of those modules bringing down the CAN bus system.
 
I need to re test. I was not jotting notes down as i was going and had to push that truck off to the side to get a few others out. Hopefully get some time on it tonight or in the morning

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This is just a guess, If it starts and runs momentarily, its generally lack of communication to 1 or more module, Do you have access to WITech, the only way I have ever been able to get over this type of problem is re-flash the PCM and reset the TIPM, and burn in the correct VIN. if the truck has the big fat key with Lock/Unlock Buttons you will need the PIN# to program the Skim to Key(s).
 
TCDiesel said:
This is just a guess, If it starts and runs momentarily, its generally lack of communication to 1 or more module, Do you have access to WITech, the only way I have ever been able to get over this type of problem is re-flash the PCM and reset the TIPM, and burn in the correct VIN. if the truck has the big fat key with Lock/Unlock Buttons you will need the PIN# to program the Skim to Key(s).
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I do not have access to witech unless the dealer down the street wants to be helpful. Skim module was going to be turned off within efi live tuning. Not sure about reseting tipm

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Well, I benched flashed the ecm with efi and deactivated the skim. The truck will now start and run but nothing works on the dash. my communication wires from the c1 connector to the tipm are ohming out perfect although I did not check with a load. Voltage at the data link connector is a perfect 2.5v on both can+ and can - but at the ecm I am getting roughly 1.32v and 3.49v. Is this normal at the ecm and coming out of the tipm or should I be getting 2.5v?
 
With just the key on it should be closer to 2.5. The TPIM is the gateway for the whole communication for the truck.
 
Any news?

Father-in-law's 2006 started doing similar things. He took it to a shop and they told him it was cold and the glow plugs weren't working correctly. I told him to run fast and far. The second shop told him ECM and quoted him for fixing it, he wasn't sold on the ECM being the problem. It is now currently at a Dodge dealership and they're claiming injector #4 is bad and that is keeping it from starting. No codes or anything else popping up. Sounds more like ECM to me, and he is beginning to agree. Just weird no codes at all?
 
juiced95CTD said:
Any news?

Father-in-law's 2006 started doing similar things. He took it to a shop and they told him it was cold and the glow plugs weren't working correctly. I told him to run fast and far. The second shop told him ECM and quoted him for fixing it, he wasn't sold on the ECM being the problem. It is now currently at a Dodge dealership and they're claiming injector #4 is bad and that is keeping it from starting. No codes or anything else popping up. Sounds more like ECM to me, and he is beginning to agree. Just weird no codes at all?
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Ended up finding can wires in engine harness shorted together. As well as bad ecm. Whats happening with your father in laws?

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I just typed a book describing what it was doing and decided to call and double check facts before I hit post and things have changed again ha. It was dead but turning over after they replaced the starter. Long story short it's a dealership now, they're saying #4 injector is dead. Dealership said they blocked it off and it acted like it wanted to start again So hes having it rebuilt in hopes that's what's keeping it from running. But in the last year or so they were having to plug it in pretty much below 50* or it wouldn't start. I don't know anything about CR injectors, I would have figured it would still run with one bad injector, that that alone wouldn't keep it from starting. It makes sense though if it failed while open and lost some pressure to rest of the injectors? That's why I was starting to wonder about the ECM but I'm no mechanic.

Sorry to jack post by the way. Appreciate the help!
 
juiced95CTD said:
I just typed a book describing what it was doing and decided to call and double check facts before I hit post and things have changed again ha. It was dead but turning over after they replaced the starter. Long story short it's a dealership now, they're saying #4 injector is dead. Dealership said they blocked it off and it acted like it wanted to start again So hes having it rebuilt in hopes that's what's keeping it from running. But in the last year or so they were having to plug it in pretty much below 50* or it wouldn't start. I don't know anything about CR injectors, I would have figured it would still run with one bad injector, that that alone wouldn't keep it from starting. It makes sense though if it failed while open and lost some pressure to rest of the injectors? That's why I was starting to wonder about the ECM but I'm no mechanic.

Sorry to jack post by the way. Appreciate the help!
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Sounds like injectors aren't allowing it to rail pressure. It's hard to tell without being there watching pressures.
 
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