12 valve lift pump install tips n tricks??

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deezullram

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Feb 2, 2011
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Been getting an annoying ticking noise from idle to 1500rpms coming from the driver's side of the engine the last few days. Couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from for the life of me. Did some research online and several posts pointed to the lift pump as the culprit. They said to tell for sure, while the engine is running and the ticking noise is present, push the priming plunger in and see if the ticking noise goes away. I did that and bingo, noise went away immediately every time I pushed the plunger in.
I ordered a new lift pump, and should be here next week and I plan on installing the end of next week to swap out the pump and the original overflow valve. The lift pump looks like a real bear to get at. Most people say it is best to get at from above vs. removing the starter and getting it from below. Any advice from those who have done it?
Funny thing is that the pump is working just fine. 30+psi at idle and 30psi at 2500rpm unloaded but that damn ticking noise is driving me nuts! Not sure what causes the ticking noise, but from what I've read, installing a new pump cures it. Fyi, 130k on original lift pump and overflow valve. I thought the lift pumps on these trucks were "bulletproof"???
Truck is a 1998 12v 2wd with DDP twins and other mods. Dynoed @ 450hp and 900ft lbs.
 
they are not bullet proof. i do the one on my 12v from the drivers side through the wheel well. a ratchet with a long extension and a socket work good for me. just make sure you dont lose the gaskets between the pump, spacer, and block
 
the starter isn't hard to pull at all, just make sure you have a 12 point, 10 mm socket
 
When I installed my lift pump, I used one of the long bolts from the front cover. Once I got it started I used the right one.

If that makes sense. Longer bolt = easier installation.
 
Why didn't you just put a fass or raptor ect. on it? So much easier and you can take that junky ass lift pump off and put a block off plate on the side of the block.
 
holsky said:
Why didn't you just put a fass or raptor ect. on it? So much easier and you can take that junky ass lift pump off and put a block off plate on the side of the block.
Click to expand...
Cause mechanical doesn't let you down like electrical.
 
it was a pain when i changed the one out on my wifes 98. but then did it again on another and its was easy. idk
 
The ticking noise happens when the spring gets tired or broken and the fuel pump piston loses contact with the little pushrod running on the cam. It's really similar to "valve float" where the spring is no longer keeping everything tight and controlled.
 
Thanks for the great info guys! Great idea regarding the studs. I will be doing that instead of using bolts for sure!
 
I changed mine when I had the IP and fuel filter housing off, made it pretty easy. I second the idea of studs. I didn't use them and it was a pain to get it lined up, and that was with lots of room open on top. With the IP still there, it'll be awkward, to say the least.
 
I am replacing my stock starter with a Mean Green starter at the same time as the lift pump, so I was planning on going at the lift pump from the bottom. Truck is a 2wd, and I will be jacking it up so I will have plenty of room underneath to work. With the truck being a 2wd, and up on jack stands with the starter removed, will I have an easier time pulling the lift pump from below, or is it still easier from above?
 
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