12's and tow?

Most diesel modders can't afford to mod AND make it survive. There's always a fine line. And our motorsports counterparts sure as hell aren't examples of longevity.

I agree, the pre-fabbed setup from BD should be a good choice for your wants.
 
TMONEYDIESEL said:
completely false statement! There are plenty of mods you can do to INCREASE longevity and at the same time increase performance, we all no there is a limit so no reason preaching an old broken record speach to me.
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What are some power adding modifications that increase longevity?
 
Cummins Driver said:
The thing is, modifying these trucks at all is not a good idea if you are in it for longevity.

You can take almost any turbo and make it live if you know how to treat it. Dont bark them, and dont overboost them and they will last a long time.
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I look at it this way with longevity.

You can build a gas motor with top of the line part and it will last MAYBE 100,000 miles of drag racing/sled pulling.

The Cummins have been known to go over 300,000 miles pushing way more HP and torque than a gas engine.

1 million miles if we left them stock to a mild HP level.
 
9712valve said:
my regular cab 4x4 slt larmie auto weighs under 6000lbs without me in it, and a little under a 1/4 tank of fuel, and no spare tire. or any junk in the bed, 12's isn't very hard probably take most trucks about 500-550. so hx35/ht3b setup would be fairly cheap and put you into the 12's.
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My 98 reg cab 4x4 5 spd wieghed 8000 lbs. with 1k lbs, of winter weight. This is full driving trim mind you, full tank, me in it, tools, spare, tailgate, etc. This is a bare bones truck, vinyl flooring, only options it has is cruise and A/C. Be very hard to get this truck under 6k lbs. My 2wd QC dually weighs less than this truck.
 
what if you wanna build a truck to be hitting 12s but dont do much of towing but still have a reliable daily driver???

can anyone point me to the right or suggested build to accomplish this.. thanks
 
Cummins Driver said:
What are some power adding modifications that increase longevity?
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you never really said POWER ADDERS, but there are plenty of mods you could internally do to a motor that would make it run smoother and more reliable, and if you were going fore MPG mods there is no reason for your motor to not be able to have the longevity of a stock motor.
 
Just to clarify i ran falken tires to 11.30. I then switched to 10.5 slicks on all 4 corners and ran 10.75. That was last season. This was all on a stock head and stock bottom end with 260k on it. Just studs and valve springs added.
 
Bponci said:
Just to clarify i ran falken tires to 11.30. I then switched to 10.5 slicks on all 4 corners and ran 10.75. That was last season. This was all on a stock head and stock bottom end with 260k on it. Just studs and valve springs added.
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thats what i was trying to tell my buddies that have mustangs with built motors running 11's and 12's and there like your gonna burn you valves or bend a connecting rod running that much boost. im only at 54psi.
 
9712valve said:
thats what i was trying to tell my buddies that have mustangs with built motors running 11's and 12's and there like your gonna burn you valves or bend a connecting rod running that much boost. im only at 54psi.
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Dude they will take forever to understand. My entire auto class has been against diesels saying that they are slow and you cant make power out of em for 2 years and until just recently then a few of em have come around after they got beat by me.
 
I love the look on peoples face when you are passing them in a race, with a 7000# diesel.

Its priceless.
 
My point is, the truck would run 12's and tow with a 62/71/14 without too much problem. No, it wont be ideal, but it would be cheaper and much easier than the mess of twins, and it would work just fine. These motors can live with some heat, and honestly, I dont think you would have to run a crap load of fuel, so I dont think the heat would be a big issue.

Obviously twins would be better, but you can use that argument for almost any daily driven truck.

Eric
 
Cummins Driver said:
My point is, the truck would run 12's and tow with a 62/71/14 without too much problem. No, it wont be ideal, but it would be cheaper and much easier than the mess of twins, and it would work just fine. These motors can live with some heat, and honestly, I dont think you would have to run a crap load of fuel, so I dont think the heat would be a big issue.

Obviously twins would be better, but you can use that argument for almost any daily driven truck.

Eric
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Eric,
I will agree with you that you can do 12s with either the 62/71/14 or with twins.

If a person has any kind of fab skills, then twins are definately cheaper.
Its $500 for a HT3B and $600 for all the piping and misc. parts.

These days a 62/71/14 runs $1800.

If you dont have a welding machine, you could take that extra $600-$700 and buy a nice mig setup.

Or some sweet injectors from Weston.

This is just my opinion.

Different strokes for different folks.
 
Wht do you guys think would be the ideal twin setup for something like this?
 
Get the pump work done first . Then you can run smaller injectors and 181's. A good turbo and a set of studs. That should do it.
 
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