12's in the 1/4??

T

TrxR

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I know guys have gone faster but is it possible to get a extended cab 4x4 auto into the 12's reliably and still daily drive and tow with it?If so what kind of mods would be needed? Or would a 5.9CR be a better option?

Thanks
 
Fill out your Signature so we know what you actually have. Then we can throw suggestions at ya..

Answer is Yes though...
 
I've run over 200 12sec passes since 06 and daily drive it for work putting 30-40K miles a yr. on the truck... It takes some keeping up but can easily be done.

Lavon
 
The trans is gonna be the weak point in a 6.7. If your funds will allow a 48re conversion, the answer is yes it is very attainable. A 6.7 will make less than half the smoke of a 5.9 and be reliable. What mod's do you already have?
 
Nothing yet as I am looking at two trucks one is a 5.9CR and the other a 6.7. Both are 4x4, 4 door cabs and are autos . One is an 06 and the other an 09.
 
Backhoe man said:
cheaper to do a 5.9 they are proven, 6.7 is not perfected yet
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The only part I see cheaper with the 5.9 is the lack of needing headstuds as soon. Turbos cost the same, upgraded lift pumps cost the same, tuners cost the same, injector nozzles are comparable, larger intercoolers are the same, air intakes and exhausts cost the same.

Running 12's is a broad statement and there is a big difference between a 12.99 and a 12.01. If the guy is looking for a 12.9 flat, I don't see a cost difference between the two - other than ARP 625's on the 6.7 (or there are guys like Acorn running mid 11's on stock studs).

The cost difference IMO is how far into the 12's you want to go. If high 12's are good, I'd feel confident in the Suncoast 68RFE being able to hold it. If you want to go deeper, then you need to look at a 48RE swap. And that is where the cost difference will make the 6.7 more expensive to build.

I do agree the 6.7 isn't perfected yet, but it is light years ahead of where it was even a year ago. We're seeing them hold great power on stock internals, make tons of torque and we benefit from being able to borrow 5.9 parts.

IF the 68RFE is ever able to hold a lot of power, I think we'll start to see more guys build them. Till then, I think a lot of people shy away from it because as things sit today, a built 48RE is the only viable option for reliably holding 600-650 rwhp. And the swap is more complex then simply dropping the transmission and installing the new one.
 
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i went 13.2 on just tuning and a dpf delete, now have some more tweaks, and i believe a 12.9 isnt out of the question, and it is still mechanically stock....turbo, fuel system, airbox, EGR SYSTEM, its all still on the truck.
 
PE3331 said:
The only part I see cheaper with the 5.9 is the lack of needing headstuds as soon. Turbos cost the same, upgraded lift pumps cost the same, tuners cost the same, injector nozzles are comparable, larger intercoolers are the same, air intakes and exhausts cost the same.

Running 12's is a broad statement and there is a big difference between a 12.99 and a 12.01. If the guy is looking for a 12.9 flat, I don't see a cost difference between the two - other than ARP 625's on the 6.7 (or there are guys like Acorn running mid 11's on stock studs).

The cost difference IMO is how far into the 12's you want to go. If high 12's are good, I'd feel confident in the Suncoast 68RFE being able to hold it. If you want to go deeper, then you need to look at a 48RE swap. And that is where the cost difference will make the 6.7 more expensive to build.

I do agree the 6.7 isn't perfected yet, but it is light years ahead of where it was even a year ago. We're seeing them hold great power on stock internals, make tons of torque and we benefit from being able to borrow 5.9 parts.

IF the 68RFE is ever able to hold a lot of power, I think we'll start to see more guys build them. Till then, I think a lot of people shy away from it because as things sit today, a built 48RE is the only viable option for reliably holding 600-650 rwhp. And the swap is more complex then simply dropping the transmission and installing the new one.
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Acorn's running ARP625 studs on the original (factory, never touched) MLS head gasket.
 
PE3331 said:
The only part I see cheaper with the 5.9 is the lack of needing headstuds as soon. Turbos cost the same, upgraded lift pumps cost the same, tuners cost the same, injector nozzles are comparable, larger intercoolers are the same, air intakes and exhausts cost the same.

Running 12's is a broad statement and there is a big difference between a 12.99 and a 12.01. If the guy is looking for a 12.9 flat, I don't see a cost difference between the two - other than ARP 625's on the 6.7 (or there are guys like Acorn running mid 11's on stock studs).

The cost difference IMO is how far into the 12's you want to go. If high 12's are good, I'd feel confident in the Suncoast 68RFE being able to hold it. If you want to go deeper, then you need to look at a 48RE swap. And that is where the cost difference will make the 6.7 more expensive to build.

I do agree the 6.7 isn't perfected yet, but it is light years ahead of where it was even a year ago. We're seeing them hold great power on stock internals, make tons of torque and we benefit from being able to borrow 5.9 parts.

IF the 68RFE is ever able to hold a lot of power, I think we'll start to see more guys build them. Till then, I think a lot of people shy away from it because as things sit today, a built 48RE is the only viable option for reliably holding 600-650 rwhp. And the swap is more complex then simply dropping the transmission and installing the new one.
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The trans will not hold the power and it is very expensive, and lets not forget unreliable. As for the engine it will make power just fine but there are very few proven combinations out there yet so you will be doing some experimenting which is expensive, or you will find out the hard way real fast other than looking the same a 5.9 and a 6.7 are very different animals. Just saying that a 5.9 with 90's, arson 3, 64/71/14, and tuning will run 12's all day long and not have some of the issues that the 6.7 will have. Also from a tuning standpoint the 5.9 stuff is way ahead of where the 6.7 stands at this point. I own a 6.7 and love it but it would be 1000 hp right now if it was a 5.9

with all the time and money I have put in it.
 
PE3331 said:
The only part I see cheaper with the 5.9 is the lack of needing headstuds as soon. Turbos cost the same, upgraded lift pumps cost the same, tuners cost the same, injector nozzles are comparable, larger intercoolers are the same, air intakes and exhausts cost the same.

Running 12's is a broad statement and there is a big difference between a 12.99 and a 12.01. If the guy is looking for a 12.9 flat, I don't see a cost difference between the two - other than ARP 625's on the 6.7 (or there are guys like Acorn running mid 11's on stock studs).

The cost difference IMO is how far into the 12's you want to go. If high 12's are good, I'd feel confident in the Suncoast 68RFE being able to hold it. If you want to go deeper, then you need to look at a 48RE swap. And that is where the cost difference will make the 6.7 more expensive to build.

I do agree the 6.7 isn't perfected yet, but it is light years ahead of where it was even a year ago. We're seeing them hold great power on stock internals, make tons of torque and we benefit from being able to borrow 5.9 parts.

IF the 68RFE is ever able to hold a lot of power, I think we'll start to see more guys build them. Till then, I think a lot of people shy away from it because as things sit today, a built 48RE is the only viable option for reliably holding 600-650 rwhp. And the swap is more complex then simply dropping the transmission and installing the new one.
Click to expand...

At this very moment NO. The Sun Coast wont hold but they are going to be releasing the new Super Kick Butt 68 that should be very solid and capable of 12's and more. I had the SC race tranny done back in November. It did great at 400hp. But with 150hp stix, Big CP3, and 64/S480 it does not like the new power. I have had to back my tune down to nothing in order to save my tranny for the updated parts and TCM for when they release it. If I can get the power to the ground I am for sure in the 12's but until then there is no point to the power.
 
Backhoe man said:
The trans will not hold the power and it is very expensive, and lets not forget unreliable. As for the engine it will make power just fine but there are very few proven combinations out there yet so you will be doing some experimenting which is expensive, or you will find out the hard way real fast other than looking the same a 5.9 and a 6.7 are very different animals. Just saying that a 5.9 with 90's, arson 3, 64/71/14, and tuning will run 12's all day long and not have some of the issues that the 6.7 will have. Also from a tuning standpoint the 5.9 stuff is way ahead of where the 6.7 stands at this point. I own a 6.7 and love it but it would be 1000 hp right now if it was a 5.9

with all the time and money I have put in it.
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That's what I said and I agree 100%.
 
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mattpopp said:
At this very moment NO. The Sun Coast wont hold but they are going to be releasing the new Super Kick Butt 68 that should be very solid and capable of 12's and more. I had the SC race tranny done back in November. It did great at 400hp. But with 150hp stix, Big CP3, and 64/S480 it does not like the new power. I have had to back my tune down to nothing in order to save my tranny for the updated parts and TCM for when they release it. If I can get the power to the ground I am for sure in the 12's but until then there is no point to the power.
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Hmmm, I just wonder how a stock 68RFE (as Warlock stated) can run a 13.2. But an upgraded unit from Suncoast can't hold a 12.9?

As I stated before, and directed at the OP, there is a HUGE difference in running a 12.9 vs a 12.0 or 12.1. Both in power, in parts, etc.

If we plug in the curb weight into the calculator located on this site, it'd take 525ish rwhp to pull a 12.9. That was my point, I'd feel comfortable with a 6.7/68RFE with upgraded parts to do it. Your particular combo (big sticks, twin turbos, etc) should produce far more than 525-ish rwhp. If similar setups are any indication, that'd put you well into the 600's, maybe low 700hp range. And that is much deeper into the 12's than I was talking about.

Now, if we are talking hundreds of 1/4 mile passes to run a 12.1, then no, that's where the 5.9/48RE combo is ahead, it's a proven transmission capable of handling more than a 68RFE.
 
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warlock06 said:
i went 13.2 on just tuning and a dpf delete, now have some more tweaks, and i believe a 12.9 isnt out of the question, and it is still mechanically stock....turbo, fuel system, airbox, EGR SYSTEM, its all still on the truck.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's where I was going with my post. A 12.9 does not take a fancy twin turbo setup, huge injectors, twin CP3's, an all billet transmission, fly cut pistons, aftermarket cam, 12V rods and port and polished head.

The original poster did not clarify how far into the 12's he was talking. Was it a 12.999 or 12.001? I think a 12.9 is doable, and while I'm not a huge fan of the 68RFE, I think it can/will be able to hold enough power to run a 12.9 when upgraded.

A 12.001? We don't know until this "race" Suncoast 68RFE starts shipping and being abused.

And that is really where the OP needs to answer the question. If he wants several hundred 12.001 passes at the track, 48RE all day, everyday and twice on Sunday. A 12.9 several times a year at the local track? I'm sure the Suncoast trans can and will hold it.

For me, a $10,000 48RE swap doesn't make sense since I don't plan on more than 550-575 rwhp, with minimal track racing. For a guy who plans on racing a lot, and getting crazy with the go-fast parts, by all means, swap a 48RE in that thing and forget about it.
 
PE3331 said:
Yep, that's where I was going with my post. A 12.9 does not take a fancy twin turbo setup, huge injectors, twin CP3's, an all billet transmission, fly cut pistons, aftermarket cam, 12V rods and port and polished head.

The original poster did not clarify how far into the 12's he was talking. Was it a 12.999 or 12.001? I think a 12.9 is doable, and while I'm not a huge fan of the 68RFE, I think it can/will be able to hold enough power to run a 12.9 when upgraded.

A 12.001? We don't know until this "race" Suncoast 68RFE starts shipping and being abused.

And that is really where the OP needs to answer the question. If he wants several hundred 12.001 passes at the track, 48RE all day, everyday and twice on Sunday. A 12.9 several times a year at the local track? I'm sure the Suncoast trans can and will hold it.

For me, a $10,000 48RE swap doesn't make sense since I don't plan on more than 550-575 rwhp, with minimal track racing. For a guy who plans on racing a lot, and getting crazy with the go-fast parts, by all means, swap a 48RE in that thing and forget about it.
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Who says it costs $10k? If you are planning on a 550-600hp truck, that hardly goes to the track, there is no need for a full billet unit. You sound like you know your way around tools, so you could do the work yourself. I plan on a 48 swap in two of my work trucks. My math says around $7k each. These trucks are stock, with deletes, but see 25-30k lbs, four times a day. Jmo
 
Acorn 616 said:
Who says it costs $10k? If you are planning on a 550-600hp truck, that hardly goes to the track, there is no need for a full billet unit. You sound like you know your way around tools, so you could do the work yourself. I plan on a 48 swap in two of my work trucks. My math says around $7k each. These trucks are stock, with deletes, but see 25-30k lbs, four times a day. Jmo
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I agree, it is cheaper doing the work yourself.

I said 10K, partly because of labor rates I've gotten from shops, and also because there's no way I'd stop short of going all billet. I'd rather do things once and never second guess it. I don't want a trans that'll hold 50hp more than I'm making. I want it to hold 100-200 more than I'm making. I don't care how harsh it shifts or how it snaps my neck. I don't want to go through transmissions like I have this 68RFE, or not be able to do a boosted launch, or wait for "tuning" to allow my $5,000 transmission to work properly. I'd either go all out with a full billet 48RE, or wait however long till a 68RFE can hold 650-700 reliably.

But I'm sure you're right, someone could do the work themselves and go with less than full billet for cheaper.
 
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