12v cummins going in to 02 f250 super duty

TRUBBS said:
you got any more details on how you did your throttle pedal and cables?
Click to expand...

I used ford pedal from gas truck and 95 dodge cable no modes, fits nice only you need to do is to cut the square end of cable to round so it will fit to fire wall.
 
Pyccak said:
Where is that Park/Neutral/Safety wire, what color and where is it located?
Click to expand...


Its in the shift selector wire connector that was plugged into the drivers side of your auto trans. I'll have to look at the pinout sheet when I get home. It just needs to be put to ground..
 
Got my alternator bracket done, I decided to use ford alternator. I also wired up my shut off solenoid here some more pics.
IMG_0304.jpg

IMG_03062.jpg

IMG_03072.jpg

IMG_03092.jpg

IMG_03102.jpg

IMG_03112.jpg

IMG_03132.jpg

IMG_03152.jpg

IMG_03162.jpg

IMG_03172.jpg

IMG_03182.jpg

IMG_03202.jpg
 
Hi to everyone! I finished my turbo pipes and I took the truck to a test drive and I am really disappointed because the truck has no power. My tech doesn't work so I don't know what rpm’s the truck starts barking, but it feels like around 1500-1800. It's loosing power and doesn't pull and it has lots of gray smoke. It feels like my timing is off. I checked the timing and it's perfect. On low rpm’s it drives normal. I have a 4gsk, but it feels like the engine never go’s over 2500 rpm’s. Please help me. What can I do? Do you think my ford fuel pump don't supply enough fuel? Can this be a problem?
Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Smokin' LB7 said:
12 vlaves like to see around 40 psi of fuel pressure....might wanna start there
Click to expand...

I was going to suggest checking fuel pressure. What are you running for a pump? Factory cummins lift pump, ford pump, or an aftermarket setup like an airdog or FASS?
 
12 Valve Timing Using the Balancer
Okay, your balancer acts as a timing chart. It is round, thus it is 360* total. The average balancer is 9.25” IIRC. So in order to find out how much the balancer has to travel (in inches) to move 1* we take the diameter of the balancer x pie (3.14). So 9.25x3.14= 29.05. Now that is the circumference of the balancer in inches, in order to turn that into inches per degree we take 29.05 divided by 360* = .08. So if you move the balancer .08 inches you have moved it one degree. .08 is roughly equal to 5/64’s if that makes it easier. So if you want to take your timing form 12.5 degrees to 22 degrees it must be bumped up 9.5 degrees or .76 inches.

So, turn your engine to TDC and check to make sure your pump is also at TDC via the pin. If they are both at TDC move on. Make sure the pins ARE NOT engaged at this time. Go ahead and take the pump gear nut off, but do not pop it loose yet. Recheck to make sure your still at TDC, if not realign it, if so move on. Mark the balancer with something that will not rub off easily. I usually line the mark up with the serpentine belt, but you can mark it however you’d like as long as you know where to move it back to.

Now measure from your mark on the balancer toward the left .76 inches and mark it. Go ahead and turn your balancer to the right (clockwise) until your mark lines up with the serpentine belt, or whatever you’re going off of.

At this time you may pop your pump gear off with a proper puller. Recheck your mark to make sure the engine did not turn.

This is where the only problem with this method comes to light. Your injection pump may turn a bit when you remove he gear, but we will check to see if this happened later on.

Now that your gear is loose, turn the engine counter clockwise back to your TDC mark. Clean your pump gear off and get your new washer and nut. For the new washer I usually use a ¾” grade 8 washer from lowes then ream it our with a carbide bit until it will fit onto the pump shaft. I have found that these grab the gear and nut the best. Be careful not to drop it down the timing case!

Reinstall the gear and torque the nut to 155 ft lbs. When tightening the nut have someone hold the engine from turning with a pry bar or with an engine barring tool.

Now in order to check that your timing is where you want it, make sure the engine is at TDC with the timing pin and double check that your mark is correctly aligned. Disengage the timing pin and bar the engine clockwise until it the injector pump’s timing pin is aligned. Your mark on the balancer should be lined up with the belt or whatever you’re using for reference. If it is not you may do two things; you may re-do the procedure, or you can measure the distance from your mark to your reference and find out how many degrees your timing is off from where you want it to be and settle for it.
 
RJM06590 said:
12 Valve Timing Using the Balancer
Okay, your balancer acts as a timing chart. It is round, thus it is 360* total. The average balancer is 9.25” IIRC. So in order to find out how much the balancer has to travel (in inches) to move 1* we take the diameter of the balancer x pie (3.14). So 9.25x3.14= 29.05. Now that is the circumference of the balancer in inches, in order to turn that into inches per degree we take 29.05 divided by 360* = .08. So if you move the balancer .08 inches you have moved it one degree. .08 is roughly equal to 5/64’s if that makes it easier. So if you want to take your timing form 12.5 degrees to 22 degrees it must be bumped up 9.5 degrees or .76 inches.

So, turn your engine to TDC and check to make sure your pump is also at TDC via the pin. If they are both at TDC move on. Make sure the pins ARE NOT engaged at this time. Go ahead and take the pump gear nut off, but do not pop it loose yet. Recheck to make sure your still at TDC, if not realign it, if so move on. Mark the balancer with something that will not rub off easily. I usually line the mark up with the serpentine belt, but you can mark it however you’d like as long as you know where to move it back to.

Now measure from your mark on the balancer toward the left .76 inches and mark it. Go ahead and turn your balancer to the right (clockwise) until your mark lines up with the serpentine belt, or whatever you’re going off of.

At this time you may pop your pump gear off with a proper puller. Recheck your mark to make sure the engine did not turn.

This is where the only problem with this method comes to light. Your injection pump may turn a bit when you remove he gear, but we will check to see if this happened later on.

Now that your gear is loose, turn the engine counter clockwise back to your TDC mark. Clean your pump gear off and get your new washer and nut. For the new washer I usually use a ¾” grade 8 washer from lowes then ream it our with a carbide bit until it will fit onto the pump shaft. I have found that these grab the gear and nut the best. Be careful not to drop it down the timing case!

Reinstall the gear and torque the nut to 155 ft lbs. When tightening the nut have someone hold the engine from turning with a pry bar or with an engine barring tool.

Now in order to check that your timing is where you want it, make sure the engine is at TDC with the timing pin and double check that your mark is correctly aligned. Disengage the timing pin and bar the engine clockwise until it the injector pump’s timing pin is aligned. Your mark on the balancer should be lined up with the belt or whatever you’re using for reference. If it is not you may do two things; you may re-do the procedure, or you can measure the distance from your mark to your reference and find out how many degrees your timing is off from where you want it to be and settle for it.
Click to expand...


WOW thanks for the info. So my engine set at 12.5 from factory?? what degree i need to set for best resolt???

I check the pressure and my pump push 30psi but for 10 sec, then its drops to 0, but truck still running
 
Last edited:
Pyccak said:
WOW thanks for the info. So my engine set at 12.5 from factory?? what degree i need to set for best resolt???

I check the pressure and my pump push 30psi but for 10 sec, then its drops to 0, but truck still running
Click to expand...

Bingo!
 
Pyccak said:
WOW thanks for the info. So my engine set at 12.5 from factory?? what degree i need to set for best resolt???

I check the pressure and my pump push 30psi but for 10 sec, then its drops to 0, but truck still running
Click to expand...

Yep.. either get a mechanical cummins lift pump or go to an aftermarket fuel pump.
 
how do you like the fitment of the cr manifoild? i assume your using cr manifoild gaskets also?
 
get a raptor 100 or 150 for the dodge with 12v im running the 150, they use quick releases now and it clips right on the feed of the tank and the mount fits the ford frame just fine just have to shorten the lines or rig them up out of the way i also did all the ford in tank mods as well because the raptor probably wouldnt like sucking through the ford mixing chamber assembly
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top