12v grid heater delete via gutting

[NickTF]

Well I decided to remove the grid heater today and after having done it I can't see why anyone wouldn't do it unless you're truly worried about cold starting. There are two rows to this thing with very little space between the fins. Sure it may add up to little area but tinking 3 dimensionally being the grid fins direct air straight down i'd think that it would hinder air a bit to the far (1 and 6) cylinders. Anyway waiting to drive it as the rtv sealent I used in place of the gasket under the stock air bridge is drying. For some reason the factory gasket didn't make it this time around.

Just a few things to make it easier on those thinking of doing this:

1. The grid heater is held in by the terminal studs on the front side (front of truck) of the plenum cover and bolts on the rear side of the plenum cover.
2. These fasteners have lock washers, flat washers, and a rubber sleeve for sealing purposes.
3. When removing the stud closest to the driver side on front of plenum cover be ready for the flat washer, lock washer, and sleeve to fall down in to the plenum. I used the close end of the wrench and my fingers to keep these parts from going down in the plenum but they still fell out. Luckily they didn't go into the intake ports and were easily removed.
4. When removing the stud closest to the passenger side on the front of the plenum the same parts exist as in 3 in addition to a spacing sleeve so be ready to catch those items.
5. Have a shop vac handy to pull out any debris that may fall in the plenum.
6. You probably shouldnt be lazy like I was and should remove the plenum cover but this method will work too. Plus, you avoid having the possibility of having to replace the plenum cover gasket.
7. When you loosen the bolts in the back side of the plenum cover it is easiest to bend the grid heater fins up and out of the way making access to the studs in the front of the plenum cover easier. These bolts only clamp the grid fins as the fins have an open eyelet, like a u shape, so removing the bolts all the way is not necessary. Be ready for the guides (2 on each grid, one passenger side one driver side) to pop out when prying the grid fins up and out of the plenum cover.

Some potentially useful info for others that want to do this. When the rtv dries a bit more I'll report back on any differences I notice. :Cheer:

 

[getblown5.9]

for those who dont want to do this work, does anyone know if a 24v plenum cover plate and gutted 24v grid heater or grid heater delete block will work in place of gutting the stocker?

 

[Twisted Shifter]

for those who dont want to do this work, does anyone know if a 24v plenum cover plate and gutted 24v grid heater or grid heater delete block will work in place of gutting the stocker?

I think Joe Hellmann makes a delete block for the 12v... I could be wrong.

 

[NickTF]

Some 12v plenum covers may be different but the only way to replace the grid heater portion is to replace the plenum cover all together the way mine is. That or cut and weld or drill and tap, both more work then gutting it. The portion where the grid heater resides in is one piece with the plenum cover. In the above when I say plenum cover I just called the entire thing the plenum cover.

 

[GOT-Torque]

The hole in the intake plate is in a different location from a 12V to a 24V.

I believe the intake would interfer with the injection lines, but not positive.

That reminds me, I need to make a 12V intake plate without the heater block for a buddy of mine. Anyone know how thick the stock piece is?

 

[Scooter's Roofing]

do anyone reading this thread, PLEASE remove the dang plate before gutting the grids!!!!! it doesn't really take any time, and it's VERY easy for a little washer to end up in one of your cylinders. I got lucky and fished out a lock washer with a flex magnet that was in a bowl behind a valve stem!

 

[NickTF]

do anyone reading this thread, PLEASE remove the dang plate before gutting the grids!!!!! it doesn't really take any time, and it's VERY easy for a little washer to end up in one of your cylinders. I got lucky and fished out a lock washer with a flex magnet that was in a bowl behind a valve stem!

It's the safer way to do it. Just have to remove the injector lines then the cover but i'd have another gasket handy or some rtv in case the plenum cover gasket doesn't stay in tact.

To those who do it like I did make sure you account for all part. If you are missing any DO NOT START THE MOTOR lol.

 

[Scooter's Roofing]

I think the plate should be ported after gutting the grids anyhow

 

[smokee94]

what does gutting the grid heater do

 

[Scooter's Roofing]

what does gutting the grid heater do

nothing really

 

[BgBlDodge]

I gutted the grid heater on my 24v (mainly cause I was bored and my delete block was stolen) and didn't notice any difference in egt's, spool up, sound, mileage, boost, etc. If your pushing 100psi then yeah, it might help. But for 99.9% of us it's a waste of time. Was kinda neat to see how it was assembled though.

 

[Ilikebikes]

I gutted mine, but instead of putting the stock studs back in place I just tapped the holes with a 1/8" NPT tap. Now if I ever need another boost reference or port I just pop out a pipe plug.

 

[derek528]

Why not buy one from a school bus application?

I take it these don't have heaters? Where is the best place to get one?

Thanks Derek

 

[ILLINOISRAM]

For 95$ you can buy the schied intake plate and for 230$ you can buy the intake horn from Jesse (Home Page) Looks tits and has actual function. The intake plate is solid thickness so id does not squish the gasket out around the bolts and it is tapped for two 1/8 inch boost ports. The intake is simpler, cleaner and looks way better that the ats piece plus i think has a smoother flow path for the air to follow plus you only need one gasket even for clearing a ppump conversion.

 

[NickTF]

Why not buy one from a school bus application?

Gutting is free

I plan to add an air bridge of some sort later down the road but it's not #1 on the list by any means, much more to do before then.

 

[NickTF]

Just went for a ride and didn't notice much difference. I need to drive the truck more to make certain. Just one more potential power robbing thing to rule out though so i'd do it again for certain!

 

[kalder]

Why not buy one from a school bus application?

Aftercooler?oke::hehe:

 

[DTanklage]

$230 ?

for a intake horn ?

i dont think i have 230 bucks in my hole set up

1st gen plate (free), hellman grid heat delete (60), tim worline cooler tube (120), silicon hose mesa hose costa mesa (5), and spring loaded clamp from the same

 

[ILLINOISRAM]

$230 ?

for a intake horn ?

i dont think i have 230 bucks in my hole set up

1st gen plate (free), hellman grid heat delete (60), tim worline cooler tube (120), silicon hose mesa hose costa mesa (5), and spring loaded clamp from the same

Well why dont you go to the website and look it up. It is 200$ bucks for a stainless steel intake for a grid heater deleated ppump 24v which by my calculations is only 20$ dollars more than your setup and mine only requires one gasket. The other 30$ is for the three 1/8 in boost ports welded in the back of the intake horn for water injection and nos. I appreciat simplicity and not having to deal with multiple spacers and gaskets is worth the 20 extra dollars for me. If you dont mind then good for you. You saved 20$

 

[DTanklage]

this guy does not have a p-pumped 24v

hes got a real cummins

the properly valved model

lol

just kiddin


*ps - i custom build nitrous systems if you ever want to make use of those bungs