12V into my 99"?

1BADRAM

1BADRAM

Diesel Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
372
Need some help guys! I have a 99' p-pumped 24V in the truck right now. Just discovered today that my 53 block has started leaking. Should I find another block and use my parts or I should I just drop a 12V into it. I have a friend that has a 12V that he said would take $1000 for it. How hard would it be to put it in my truck? Do I need just a wiring harness to get my gauges to work? This is my daily driver.
 
Now I have never done it but I have read up on it, I have heard of people doing it but it is more work than what its worth if you already have a p-pumped 24V, I would say just buy a 24v block and put what you have on it
 
CPS bracket from Haisley,
24v timing gear,
machine the back of the timing case for the CPS bracket.
You will lose the mechanical fuel pump if you want all the gauges and all to work, as the ECM is right over the Mech f/p boss(or you could reqork the harness some), it will throw codes with out seeing the VP44, but, oh well... its not there.... you will need to change out the coolant sensor from tehe 24 to the 12. All in all, not too bad. this truck was an auto to start with, so, it has the cable actuated cruise control(which, once I get my ABS sorted out will work again). The dash works as it should, all controls, just has a P-pumped 12v under the hood...

Thats the real short version.
 
My timing case is already machined for the crank sensor. I figure I need the 12V wiring harness, what about the 12V PCM?
 
Nope. The 12v P-pump is all mechanical. Everything under the hood is 24v, except the Ppumped 12v.... 24v wiring harness, plumbing, etc....

It has the 24v ECM/PCM, etc....

I am sure someone could probably explain it better..., but if you have everything, I would go that route... but, thats just me...

Chase
 
OK, just trying to figure out if this is do able. The 99's have the seperate cam and crank sensor, not sure how that would hook up on a 12V. The 01' and 02's would be easier since there cam and crank sensors are together.
 
the 24v has metric fitings, the 12v has standard fitings. make adaptors. there is no way to make your crank sensor work. 12v dont have the tone ring or the cut out in the block. use your 24v ecm and the 12v mechanical pump, make a braket to hold the ecm.

you will also need the 12v motor mounts. i just about got mine done.....just a few odd and end things
 
without the crank sensor the alternator won't charge and the tach won't work. I really don't need the 12V mechanical pump because I'm running an Aeromotive fuel system. Hoping there was some way to get everything to work with the 12V.
 
oh yea i forgot to mention the alternator. and also with out the crank sensor the oil psi wont work.
 
1BADRAM said:
OK, just trying to figure out if this is do able. The 99's have the seperate cam and crank sensor, not sure how that would hook up on a 12V. The 01' and 02's would be easier since there cam and crank sensors are together.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... didnt know anything about the wiring differences from 98.5-00... Well, in that case, I can say nothing other than if you go through with it....you will love it... and if you just swap out the 24v block for another.... I am sure you will love that too....

The biggest thing, was a lot of nickle and dime stuff.... but, mine wen tform 24v auto, to 12v 5spd...

Good luck.
 
i have damn near $500 in the simple stuff...nuts bolts, wireing, fittings and all the stuff you never think of.
 
Hey if you decided to go the route of the 12v please pm me I would love to buy some stuff off your hands for my p-pump swap.
 
Thanks for the replies. Will be talking to Enterprise Engine tommorrow about them swaping my stuff into another block. Probably going to be sticking with a 24V block, just not a 53.
 
I have a spare 53 block sitting here that has been decked and honed, but really don't want to use it.
 
if i cant get a litte out of mine im gonna make a coffee tabel out of it for the new house lol
if you go with a 12v, the storm block has the cut out for the crank sensor.....you would have to use your 24v crank though....if you already have the 24v p pumped and the internals and head is good i would just get a block.
 
all that really needs to be done to a cracked 53 block is a good nickel rod stitch weld and it should be as good as any other block (except the AG and marine blocks)
 
^^^^i think once the crack starts it will keep going. but thats just me. i dont want to be driving down the road and a chunk the size of your fist come off.......
 
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