12VAnthony's 97 Build Thread

12vanthony

12vanthony

No idea what Im doing
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
414
Figured I would start a build thread because I know there are a chit ton of people on here way smarter than me and Im gonna need some help/advice/suggestions.

Truck:
97 reg cab 5 speed 4x4 4.10 gears and 285's w/ SB 3600 DD, billet input, upgraded hydros, fresh trans.

Goals:
This is my DD for 1 week a month. I want to do a little sled pulling/dynoing/driving/occasional towing and make a steady & realiable 700-750hp

Picked up a set of used twins (S366/S475) with 4" piping. Also got a set of aged studs and a lightly used o-ringed head in the deal. Turbos and head are at ED getting looked over. My plan is to sell the 66 and go with a S362 or S363 just not sure what one yet....suggestions? I would like to run a steed speed manifold with a WG port, this would allow me to run a non gated top turbo correct? Also not sure if I should go with a standard or comp, straight or angled.

What im pondering on that I have in the cart so far.

Smokem 5x18's..... havent decided on DV's yet suggestions?
Haisley 5k's
Hamilton 188/220 or 194/220 still thinking.
HD pushrods
165# behives
CPP rebuild kit with marine pistons and thicker HG. Suggestions on this kit or another?
Tork tec OFV
Helman fuel sump
Fass 220
New return line from pump to frame.
Billet freeze plugs, already have billet tappet cover
1.3" tappets
24V oil pump
fluiddampner
ARP rod bolts
steed speed just gotta figure what one.
Really want a adjustable pump gear and billet cover but I think Ill hold off for now to save a couple bucks on the initial build.

I'd like to get my pump benched while the motor is out but Im not sure where to send it or what it would cost?

Any inputs on what 362/363 to go with?

Any reccomendations on my list for things to add or things that arent neccessary?

Thanks for the help fellas. This should be fun:Cheer:
 
Last edited:
na5avyhy.jpg


Here is the truck for everyone who likes pictures.
 
12vanthony said:
Sounds like it's gonna be Seth for the pump then!
Click to expand...

Good choice! He managed to squeeze over 600cc's out of my 215 pump with just a set of DDP 024 delivery valves. Great guy to deal with.

I have everything that's on your parts list in my motor except for the compound turbos.
I'm running an ED billet 66. Best run has been 718hp with the pump set at 400cc and timing at 26*.
 
Last edited:
blackstacks said:
Good choice! He managed to squeeze over 600cc's out of my 215 pump with just a set of DDP 024 delivery valves. Great guy to deal with.

I have everything that's on your parts list in my motor except for the compound turbos.
I'm running an ED billet 66. Best run has been 718hp with the pump set at 400cc and timing at 26*.
Click to expand...



Awesome! That's what I like to here, I was planning on going with .024's as well.

Hopefully I'll be able to talk to him tmrw and get my pump in the mail.
 
I'm glad I went with an adjustable pump gear on mine. Saves lots of tuning time and no chance of slipped timing.

I have a Hamilton 188/220 cam in mine and like it. I installed it on a 98.5* CL. I did have to sink my valves a little rather than flycut the pistons to make it work. I also had my head cnc ported.

I built mine with the intention to go bigger in the future if I wanted. Main studs and girdle, polished and parkerized rods ect...
 
I still might get an adjustable gear, we shall see. I know it would be a good decision. Where did you get your grear from and front cover?


I was oringinally going to go with a 188/220 but zach said if I wanted to untilize hp over 4200 or 4500 (cant remember) RPM the 194/220 would be good.



Just ordered a BW 63/68/.91 from manning motorsports and a T4 steed speed manifold with WG port..... making progress.
 
12vanthony said:
I still might get an adjustable gear, we shall see. I know it would be a good decision. Where did you get your grear from and front cover?


I was oringinally going to go with a 188/220 but zach said if I wanted to untilize hp over 4200 or 4500 (cant remember) RPM the 194/220 would be good.



Just ordered a BW 63/68/.91 from manning motorsports and a T4 steed speed manifold with WG port..... making progress.
Click to expand...

I got the gear from Jesse at JD's and the cover is from Keating.

I'm going compound next year. I have a lot more fuel on tap but not enough air with the single.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    36.8 KB · Views: 0
i went with a 194-220 cam aswell as push rods and mannings new valve springs they got. havnt found alot of guys running that cam but the ones that i did ask were sayin they were loving it. taylor's a great guy i went to him for damn near all my parts for my build. goodluck, and send your pump to seth!
 
Just ordered the adustable gear and billet cover with billet side freeze plugs from JD's

Ended up going with the 188-220 108 LSA steel cam.

Just have to find a good local machine shop to get my block honed and machined for cam bearings and 14mm main studs.

Should here back soon from ED about my head. Prbly pick up a WG from them as well.
 
12vanthony said:
Just ordered the adustable gear and billet cover with billet side freeze plugs from JD's

Ended up going with the 188-220 108 LSA steel cam.

Just have to find a good local machine shop to get my block honed and machined for cam bearings and 14mm main studs.

Should here back soon from ED about my head. Prbly pick up a WG from them as well.
Click to expand...

Are you using a 12V STORM/24V block? 12V blocks have 14mm mains already up through 97 I believe.

Be sure to check piston protrusion and valve recession with that cam. I prefer fly cutting the pistons over running a thicker head gasket.

I think you'll be happy with the 188/220 cam.
 
I actually just was just reading and realized that they are 14mm stock so I will not have to worry about that :doh:

I just ordered the rebuild kit, I was wondering if I should of had them flycut the pistons or not. I ordered it with the thicker gasket. Wonder if that was the wrong choice.

Think the FASS 220 is overkill?


Really liking that billet valve cover by the way, shes SEXY
 
Last edited:
12vanthony said:
I actually just was just reading and realized that they are 14mm stock so I will not have to worry about that :doh:

I just ordered the rebuild kit, I was wondering if I should of had them flycut the pistons or not. I ordered it with the thicker gasket. Wonder if that was the wrong choice.

Think the FASS 220 is overkill?


Really liking that billet valve cover by the way, shes SEXY
Click to expand...

You won't know how much to take off the pistons, if any, until you have the short block assembled and can measure protrusion, and measure valve recession in your head. Sure you could just take enough off to where you know you'll be safe, but why take off more than whats necessary and lower compression even more? Your quite a bit lower with the large bowl pistons already. Running a thicker head gasket is fine too, it will just lower your compression ratio a bit more. On my last build I ended up having to sink the valves to about .060" and run a .010"+ thicker head gasket. My block had been decked .006" and my head resurfaced .003". My pistons were already coated so I didn't want to fly cut them.

Make sure you degree your cam. I had to change keyways on mine to get it where it needed to be.

I have the Fass 220 on mine and it never drops below 45psi. It idles at 65psi. My P7100 is dual fed. Make sure your return line is not kinked in any way. I only used the pump in the whole kit. The mounting brackets were worthless so I made my own. I have a Beans sump on the tank and a Vulcan drawstraw bulkhead as my return. Nothing factory left in the fuel system. Its more than whats needed for the power level i'm at but I wont need to upgrade later on.
 
blackstacks said:
You won't know how much to take off the pistons, if any, until you have the short block assembled and can measure protrusion, and measure valve recession in your head. Sure you could just take enough off to where you know you'll be safe, but why take off more than whats necessary and lower compression even more? Your quite a bit lower with the large bowl pistons already. Running a thicker head gasket is fine too, it will just lower your compression ratio a bit more. On my last build I ended up having to sink the valves to about .060" and run a .010"+ thicker head gasket. My block had been decked .006" and my head resurfaced .003". My pistons were already coated so I didn't want to fly cut them.

Make sure you degree your cam. I had to change keyways on mine to get it where it needed to be.

I have the Fass 220 on mine and it never drops below 45psi. It idles at 65psi. My P7100 is dual fed. Make sure your return line is not kinked in any way. I only used the pump in the whole kit. The mounting brackets were worthless so I made my own. I have a Beans sump on the tank and a Vulcan drawstraw bulkhead as my return. Nothing factory left in the fuel system. Its more than whats needed for the power level i'm at but I wont need to upgrade later on.
Click to expand...
Of course, everything i'm saying are based on my own opinions and experiences.. I'm sure others will chime in with with their recommendations.
 
The parts have started rolling in

Fass/fuilddampner/full rebuild kit/couple gauges/

Headed back to work for a month, hopefully the rest is here when I get back so I can get started.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top