150lb or 60lb valve springs??

12vanthony

No idea what Im doing
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
414
I need a set of valve springs for what is in my sig and all industrial sells is 200's and 150's. Would the 150's be to much? If I need to get 60lb springs where should I buy them from? Thanks guys.

any good places to get valve cover gaskets too?
 
60lb will do for what you have. I can't answer for sure if 150lb will wear things too fast or not. I don't like running more than is necessary.
 
i cant see you needing anyhting more then 60lb springs unless ur truck was lets say a alll out run what u brung sled puller or drag racer
 
The 60 lbs are 60 over stock which puts them about 150 on the seat. Those from II are probably just what everybody calls 60 lb springs.
 
Gotcha thanks guys I just ordered the 660 lb ers from haisley. I read the write up on the install for the 24v...is there one for the 12v, I know it is not much different but I have never done this before. And is there a tool for the 12v too?
 
Lisle 16750 is the tool you want.

Roll the engine over to TDC on cylinder 1 and you can do the intake and exhaust on that and number 6. With the tool you have to get as good of a bite as you can. When you have it compressed hit with a rubber mallet or push down with your body weight and slightly move it until the retainer slides down far enough to get to the keepers with a magnet. On number 6 I used a 2x4 to get it to compress enough being that it is an awkward bugger to get to.

I found it easiest to roll the engine over with the alternator nut and watch the intake rocker assembly and as it comes up in it's travel keep your eye on the exhaust rocker. As soon as it starts to move down stop and you'll be good to go for that pair of cylinders.

1-6, 2-5, 3-4 will be the cylinders that are paired together if you aren't aware. Anything else let us know.

Edit: Also with the tool you will have a lever and a bolt supplied with it. I did not like using the lever as I felt I didn't have enough control over it. I used the bolt. Using the bolt makes it easier for compressing the new spring as well. I was able to get down to about the 3rd or 4th coil from the top and was able to spin the spring in the tool to compress it. Make sure you have the keeper on beforehand. Then just crawl back up into the engine bay and push down on the top of the tool and place the keepers back in.
 
ok now what about holding the valves up like using compressed air in a gas motor? Or does rotating the motor take care of that? I have an oem manual that i am going to read on the install as well but i just figured i'd ask you guys that have done it. thanks
 
The valves will rest on the top of the piston. That is why it is important to have it as close to TDC as possible. It is very easy and once you get that first valve done you'll be seeing that. Just make sure when you get done with one pair of cylinders to roll to TDC on the next pair.
 
i made a tool i got a peice of half in plate drilled 3 holes in a triangel pattern, got some all thread the same size of the head bolts and 3 nuts and made some holes for the keepers to come out of. did one and 6 at the same time along with 2 and 5 and 3 and 4 it worked great and i made it out of stuff i had lying around =D. its defantly not pretty but it worked great.
 
The 150lb springs are probably similar to the "60lb" ones that everyone uses, IIRC the "60lb" springs have like 145lbs of seat pressure.
 
i made a tool i got a peice of half in plate drilled 3 holes in a triangel pattern, got some all thread the same size of the head bolts and 3 nuts and made some holes for the keepers to come out of. did one and 6 at the same time along with 2 and 5 and 3 and 4 it worked great and i made it out of stuff i had lying around =D. its defantly not pretty but it worked great.

Yes it did!!:rockwoot:
 
Does anyone have a picture of the tool, homemade or store bought version?
 
Lisle 16750 is the tool you want. genos garage has one for like 26 0r 28 bucks search that tool on google and u'll get a good pic
 
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