160 P-Pump, how much horsepower

S

Sarge1

Sarge
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
196
Is anyone running the 160 hp pump and getting over 450 hp?? What mods did you do??? I am in the process of building my trans "auto" then i am going to start the mods on the engine. I want to get around 450 - 600 horse to the ground. Am I wasting my time with the 160 hp pump, should i find a 215?? I mainly am going to use the truck for the street, very little towing. :thankyou2:
 
160 could do it, I wouldn't spend the money on the 215, unless you can find one cheap.
 
Phil Taylor busted 602 with his 160/ a set of 370's, gay timing and a 64/14
 
my truck did 416 with a bigger turbo, bosch 330's and a set of 181's with its 160 pump so I imagine with a decent set of sticks and some bigger dv's 450 is pretty easy with a 160 pump.
 
While were on the subject of 160 pumps what do you guy's think I'm at with my combo? Sorry Sarge couldn't resist......
 
Timbeaux38 said:
Phil Taylor busted 602 with his 160/ a set of 370's, gay timing and a 64/14
Click to expand...

thanks ASS! I laughed so hard at "gay timing", I almost wrecked! (yes, I'm driving and posting)
 
what year and transmission is it?
pklisting.gif
 
johnjas on here is 608 and his fastest time is 11.57 with a 160 pump it is a standard cab but serious horse power and he has same injectors and dv's I have and mod s300 over s400 twins and zero plate Fass not sure of some of the other stuff like 3 or 4gsk ect.
 
Thanks guys, Im new to postin in these forums. Thanks Smokem for showing me how to view the replies. Phil Taylor, was this all on #2?? What parts should i be lookin at puttin in the pump? 191's, laser cuts? 0 or 100 plate? I dont want to smoke like a train either. I'll take some turbo and injector suggestions also. Im planning on a ported and oringed head with 12mm studs
 
These 160 pumps pushin 600, are they using 215 cam or a ground one?? Doesnt Piers take the 160's and work them over?
 
johnsjas is a stock 160 pump except plate and gsk and overflowvalve
 
KingS, thanks for the info. What for delivery valves and holders / sticks are you running?? What boost levels? Like I said I want to stick to 12 mm studs and orings with marine headgasket. Any AFC mods like spring, or gutted? Is it true with the 160 p-pump, I dont have to cnange the rack plug?
 
smokem is best on the mods for afc but on jonhsjas truck I believe he gutted it but yes truck will be real awesome on the bottom if you gut the afc but if your injectors are big and dv's you will smoke like crazy on the bottom end so it is better for all around driving and performance best to do the mods.

as for me and johnsjas are injectors are done by JL Machining they are 5x16's edm'd tips and other trick they dump major fuel they are like 220 hp's or something like that then we have his version of laser cut Dv's then the holders that the lines connect to are also punched out bigger holes in the end.

I see 70psi at wot I've been told that 12mm and oring will hold that but I know at least when doing fire rings schied will only use 14mm do to the 12mm don't hold most of the time but that has some to do with the hardnest of the fire ring and trying to squeeze them down. I know that with stock timing and the injector dv and such that I have now but stock turbo It all held together but I could produce 60+ psi on the little hx35 and then the first night I bump the timing up I did a 4x4 launch on the street like I do at the strip and by half way into second gear boom hx35 and head blew.
 
Thanks KingS, These injectors, are they modded 370's ? Do they correct the spray pattern for our auto pistons? Does J L machining have a website?? How much the injectors go for?? Do you know what delivery valves were cut, are they 181's 191's? KingS, did you modify the rack travel at all in the pump? Your running a #5 plate, any thoughts of 100 plate? Appreciate all the info you have given me, Thanks
 
First off. He took my stock dv's and stock injectors, and made what I have from them. If you want to keep your stock stuff he has sets, you can buy he makes them from stock stuff so pattern ect. is what it should be.
Second. As for plate get the plate that is for your truck but equivalent to the TST #5 that goes in a 96.
People have argued this but easy to settle the argument take a 100 and a zero and my tst #5, and use a caliper and measure them, they all have the same full fuel almost. My #5 actually measure smaller which means more fuel at full throttle the a Zero. The benefit you have with a # 5 ect . is the lip that is on them, controls fuel more efficiently by holding back the fuel some even after the afc foot moves out of the way, the gov foot then hit the plate lip and as rpm's increase the gov foot is allowed to slide farther forward till it hit the farthest point of the plate cut. The help in truck efficiency when driving in town towing ect. unlike the zero that just give as much fuel depending on foot position not all the above. I also beside bottom end seen no difference in the plate when driving around and on the strip I seen no difference in my truck
 
hey guys i hit a a 12.945 at 106.94 i have LC DV 4 gsk no plate or arm DDP stage 4 hx 40 over bht3e, fully built ddt tranny on 33 inch bfg mud terrains (bald as a babies ass) im fixin to put the rack plug in it and a set slicks dont know on the dyno yet
 
for about half track and then it cleans up hopefully the rack plug will help that though my mph is the same now that ive put bigger chargers and the ddp4's over the 370 it is still 106-107 at 12.945 and then it was 106-107 at 13.8 so im launchin hard but not top end
 
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