2003 F250 V10 to 12v w/ Pics

Do you have a part number for the upper radiator hose? Also any pics or description of how you did the lower hose?

I definitely like the new wheels and tires, looks great!
 
The upper radiator is the stock dodge one, just trimmed up. The lower is the stock dodge as well, cut most of it off and just used the part that comes off the block to where it reduces down. Then a piece off 2" exhaust tubing bent to 137* and the stock v10 lower radiator hose connects that to the radiator.
The tach is a 40-1 tone ring kit from destroked. I had to wire crank(+) to one side of the sensor and crank(-) and cam(+) to the other side.
Thanks for the compliments.
 
How did you do your power steering lines? Also are you brakes just run off the stock dodge vacuum pump?
 
I used the Ford line and cut the gear box side off right before the crimp and retained the fittng. Then I used the dodge line and cut the reservoir side off at the crimp and had a section of hose made with compression fittings on both sides and tightened them up.
Yes, the brakes run off the vacuum pump as well as the blend doors for the a/c.
 
I used the Ford line and cut the gear box side off right before the crimp and retained the fittng. Then I used the dodge line and cut the reservoir side off at the crimp and had a section of hose made with compression fittings on both sides and tightened them up.
Yes, the brakes run off the vacuum pump as well as the blend doors for the a/c.

Awesome thanks. Also, did you put a diesel fuel tank in your truck, or keep the gas fuel tank that came with it?
 
Kept the gas fuel tank, I just pulled it out and drained it when I started to take the truck apart and let it air out til I needed it.
 
How did you do your power steering lines? Also are you brakes just run off the stock dodge vacuum pump?

I don't know if the hazards are different from the 7.3 psd's but I used the stock dodge power steering line & just screwed it right into the ford hydro-booster. And just t-Ed the other line.
 
Another question....I just pulled apart that V10 engine wiring harness. And the speedo sensor wires that are wrapped up in that tin foil stuff...which wire did you tap into? I think one was blue and one was grey.

Thanks
 
Those are your crank sensor wires, IIRC the blue is the positive and grey is negative,I can't seem to find where I wrote it down at. As far as hooking them up scroll up the page to post # 23.
 
Thanks for your help. So then what did you do with the cam (-) side? Just ground it to the block? On mine it is a 2 wire.

I really appreciate your help
 
What did you do about the water temp sending unit? I cant find an adapter for the small thread of the v10 sending unit.
 
I don't think you will find an adapter that fits the thread pitch of the CHT sensor. I just have a mechanical gauge in it now. I tried a water temp sensor I had on the shelf, but when it was on it started in the middle of the gauge and as it warmed up and got to operating temp the needle would be pegged. So if someone has some experience with this, I would appreciate the help,thanks.
 
They might now but they didn't when I ordered them about this time last year. Their "kit" was three or four reducer s which I had plenty of already:doh:
but neither had the correct thread pitch of the CHT sensor.
 
You might try a 5.4 water temp sensor. I dont know if the plug is the same, or if the range of the sensors are the same. But i just used a common bushing from the parts house, and it works fine.

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I just remembered, i used both the water temp and cyl head temp gauges at first. When i fired it up it started reading and then pegged like you are talking about. When i troubleshot the issue ,i found out with the cyl head temp unplugged, the gauge read correctly. Just a thought.

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Im sorry , i meant both sending units. Unplug the cht and just use the water temp.

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