2011 Ram 3500 Overhaul

RockinRam96

RockinRam96

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Sep 15, 2011
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Gents! I have a 2011 Ram 3500, 2wd, auto with almost 250,000 miles on it. I haul horses with a 2+1 horse trailer that weighs about 6,000 lbs empty, and close to 10,000 loaded, along with my 24’ gooseneck occasionally with my tractor. The trailer weighs about 5,300 empty and fully loaded I expect it to weigh around 15,000 lbs. Truck has pulled a trailer for 95%+ of those miles. Gets an engine service every 7,500 miles with a fuel filter change. Gets a trans service and rear end service every 80,00 miles.

Looking to overhaul the suspension, front to back, from the front sway bar to rear shackle bushings. Looking fit suggestions on front springs, rear springs and shocks.

I am in need of shocks badly. Put Gabriel shocks on it about 50,000 miles ago, and I am sure they have **** the bed already. Coil overs?

I have had good luck with Moog parts and and plan on replacing front A-arm bushings with Moog bushings. Don’t plan on replacing ball joints or front wheel bearings as they have been replaced in the last 50,000 miles.

My turbo has also developed a funny whistle, when it engages the engine brake. Something to be concerned about? Suggestions on replacements? Wouldn’t mind a little performance gain, but wanting to retain the engine brake. Engine has been deleted and has an 85 hp tune.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
 
Sounds like where I'm at. Just past the 200K mile marker and time to fix a ton of ****. I'm thinking next will be the rear leafs. This thing rides like hammered **** but I'd like to still haul heavy. A true "cake and eat it too" scenario. I've heard there are some good progressive leaf packs out there that ride like a half ton empty but stiffen up pretty fast. I've yet to figure out which OEM has the best ones.

As far as turbo, I just refreshed my truck with a new Cheetah from Fleece. OEM drop in replacement and keeps the e-brake as you mentioned. It performs exactly like OEM as far as I can tell. I was disappointed at first until I realized my drive pressure gauge was toast and wouldn't let the E-brake engage like it should. Replaced the sensor and it works good now. Not better than stock, but good. I was kinda hoping for a little bump in performance from it but there isn't any. To do it over, I think I'd go to a 2nd gen style spinny thing and aftermarket e-brake. Not sure the money difference but I'd sure like to try it with someone else's money.
 
I like this truck. And for the cost of a new one, it makes more sense to me to rebuild what I have for a fraction of the cost. Figure if I do it all at the same time it has to improve ride quality. Mine still rides well with a trailer but like a lumber wagon without. Would like to get my hands on some quality rear leaf springs. Just no idea where to start. Searching on the interwebs I find springs from $300 to $900 each. None of which are companies I recognize.

As far as the turbo goes, if there is no improvement of the Cheetah over stock, is there a benefit to spending the extra coin? $3,000 seems expensive for a factory replacement. But maybe there are some beneficial go fast parts, that for a guy like me will just extend its service life.

The factory engine brake in mine is pretty strong, IMO. I'd be afraid of loosing braking performance with a 2nd gen conversion and an aftermarket brake. I use that thing all the time, pulling a trailer or not. So much so I got almost 200,000 mile out of the factory brake components. I'd be all about the 2nd gen swap for turbo options, but I am not willing to give up that brake.
 
I've been "told" that aftermarket e-brakes work better than factory but I've never riding in a truck with on installed. I'd have to get some demonstrations before crossing that bridge. I'm not trusting too many folks anymore. I really want a 2nd gen turbo just because the truck would sound like a damn truck....not this sissy ass VGT sound. LOL
 
Ha ha right. I guess I don't need more power. I have plenty for what I am doing. When I speak performance I am looking for longevity, throttle response and braking power.

I know the second gen I drove for a summer with the e-brake was, IMHO, less than desirable. Better than nothing, but was a lot left on the table, I felt. I feel the brake in my 2011 is better than the brake in my dads 2015 Chevy or his 24 GMC.
 
Deaver could set you up with springs that ride how you want. In my opinion, no leaf spring is going to ride good unloaded and tow well. Gonna need air bags.
 
If one of you wants to get real serious on braking, I have a PacBrake Load Leash weeper brake setup laying here I bought years ago for my 2010, but never got it installed before it became a service truck and never hooked to a trailer again LOL

I should probably try to sell it, but never took the time to list it LOL

It's as close to an engine brake as you can ever get, uses oil pressure to open the valves at the top of compression.
Chris

And yes, the Exhaust brake on the Cummins is MUCH stronger than any of the Duramax's I've had since 2012...2012, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018, 2020, 2022, 2023, and now a 2024...Dealer likes to keep them under 30K miles when we trade LOL
 
Your strange whistle noise when using the exhaust brake is most likely an exhaust manifold gasket leaking where it bolts to the head. It's usually # 6. Don't buy a turbo before checking that out.
 
bateman said:
Deaevr could set you up with springs that ride how you want. In my opinion, no leaf spring is going to ride good unloaded and tow well. Gonna need air bags.
Click to expand...
Deaver? A quick Google search shows that they don't offer Ram springs. Agreed on ride. And honestly I don't care about unloaded ride quality, as the truck is hooked to a trailer 95% of the time. But I do have air bags on it. They need to be replaced, along with all the lines.

Signature600 said:
If one of you wants to get real serious on braking, I have a PacBrake Load Leash weeper brake setup laying here I bought years ago for my 2010, but never got it installed before it became a service truck and never hooked to a trailer again LOL

I should probably try to sell it, but never took the time to list it LOL

It's as close to an engine brake as you can ever get, uses oil pressure to open the valves at the top of compression.
Chris
Click to expand...

I'd be real interested this. Send me a PM. Only downside I see is that in the descriptions I have read it says it works in conjunction with the factory exhaust brake and is not meant for tuned and deleted trucks... I have all of that. And if I were to install this, it would be to remove the factory turbo for a 2nd gen swap. Any thoughts on that?

Snedge said:
Your strange whistle noise when using the exhaust brake is most likely an exhaust manifold gasket leaking where it bolts to the head. It's usually # 6. Don't buy a turbo before checking that out.
Click to expand...
I will check this out. The truck is deleted, but retains the factory DPF cans, and the tubes that go somewhere into the engine bay, I just haven't taken the time to eliminate them. Hoping a leak there maybe an issue as well. But I will check the exhaust manifold gaskets too.

The whistle does "get better" as the engine comes up to operating temperature.
 
If you want new quality springs check out General Spring. They offer several springs in different weights and were easy to work with on a recent build.
 
RockinRam96 said:
Deaver? A quick Google search shows that they don't offer Ram springs. Agreed on ride. And honestly I don't care about unloaded ride quality, as the truck is hooked to a trailer 95% of the time. But I do have air bags on it. They need to be replaced, along with all the lines.



I'd be real interested this. Send me a PM. Only downside I see is that in the descriptions I have read it says it works in conjunction with the factory exhaust brake and is not meant for tuned and deleted trucks... I have all of that. And if I were to install this, it would be to remove the factory turbo for a 2nd gen swap. Any thoughts on that?


I will check this out. The truck is deleted, but retains the factory DPF cans, and the tubes that go somewhere into the engine bay, I just haven't taken the time to eliminate them. Hoping a leak there maybe an issue as well. But I will check the exhaust manifold gaskets too.

The whistle does "get better" as the engine comes up to operating temperature.
Click to expand...
No idea about removing the factory turbo...if may retain some braking, but not as much as with the factory turbo. You could install an aftermarket brake with a 2nd gen turbo, and then you would get the best of both worlds I assume.

Chris
 
If going with a fixed vein turboncheck out BD diesels iron horn kits. Put the turbo in a 3rd gen position so the intake and exhaust can be reused. They use a couple different sized turbos depending on what you need. Also pretty cost effective.
 
As far as the exhaust leak goes. The easiest way to find it is to shut the lights off in the shop, or outside at night, have helper plug off the tail pipe with a piece of cardboard or plywood, then take a flashlight and shine it on the manifold. You'll see the smoke around the leak.
 
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