24v injector pop off press vs. 12 v injector... 24v sticks with a P pump ???

cool thanks for the pics.

any pics of that CPS adapter you made? does the case have to be machined, or is it a part that bolts on? willing to make another or do you have any info/measurements on it? im also trying to do this without buying a kit from a shop.

and i gotta figure out what all throttle linkage is needed...there is alot of brackets and stuff on the side of that pump that i dont have on my pump...
 
I ended up using part of my APPS lever to make the 24v throttle cable work.
 
getblown5.9 said:
cool thanks for the pics.

any pics of that CPS adapter you made? does the case have to be machined, or is it a part that bolts on? willing to make another or do you have any info/measurements on it? im also trying to do this without buying a kit from a shop.

and i gotta figure out what all throttle linkage is needed...there is alot of brackets and stuff on the side of that pump that i dont have on my pump...
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You bolt up the adapter, mark the cover where it needs machining and take a die grinder to open the whole as needen. And you can also modify your vp44 braket to work for the p pump linkage, just takes some time a fab skills
 
ok so i just need to get all the linkage that actually goes on the pump then if the vp44/apps linkage will work. i can massage/fab stuff to make it work.

I can see using the die grinder to make the fitting work in the timing case, but don't I also need to buy the actual adapter that bolts in?

600- where did you route your oil supply/return lines for the pump?
 
getblown5.9 said:
ok so i just need to get all the linkage that actually goes on the pump then if the vp44/apps linkage will work. i can massage/fab stuff to make it work.

I can see using the die grinder to make the fitting work in the timing case, but don't I also need to buy the actual adapter that bolts in?

600- where did you route your oil supply/return lines for the pump?
Click to expand...

Yeah you need the adapter for the sensor to screw into, We get em through Haisley. I thinkn i might have an extra oil feed return T that goes into the block.
 
getblown5.9 said:
ok so i just need to get all the linkage that actually goes on the pump then if the vp44/apps linkage will work. i can massage/fab stuff to make it work.

I can see using the die grinder to make the fitting work in the timing case, but don't I also need to buy the actual adapter that bolts in?

600- where did you route your oil supply/return lines for the pump?
Click to expand...

The pictures he sent me, he did similar to me, banjo bolt on the left side (engine side) of the pump. I used a Tee from the vacuum pump supply, not sure what he did. Oil just returns back into the crank case via the timing cover. It just dumps out from the front of the pump behind the gear.
 
I cut up 2 fittings and welded them back together to make 1 short fitting. Not alot of room back there.
 
dzlfarmboy said:
Yeah you need the adapter for the sensor to screw into, We get em through Haisley. I thinkn i might have an extra oil feed return T that goes into the block.
Click to expand...

Shoot me a price on that CPS adapter, and the oil fitting.

let me know if you come across any other parts also.

i still need-
DV's
Plate
timing case
24v conversion lines (prolly .093 stainless)
 
all i have to say is i love my p pump 24 valve for all out power... i wish it was adjustable like a VP or CP3 truck but it is very impressive and fuels really hard and is a blast to drive!
 
Yeah I took pics of everything, but right now I cant a bunch on my SD card!:doh::doh: I may have used my other card which is at work.

The cps sensor adapter, you need to machine an aluminum block the proper thickness with the bore to recieve the CPS. Then you take the 24V timing cover, lay it over the 12V cover and transfer punch the proper location. Then just mill the new hole, which interescts the existing TDC pin hole in the 12v cover, so you have to mill, not drill or it will bore lining up with the proper hole. A few other 10-24 drilled and taped holes, a gasket and you are done. Hard to explain in writing, but its a piece of cake once you get it all in front of you.

I ran my oil supply line on the engine side as Tate said. had to make up a very shallow banjo fitting and grind a little off the head for it to clear. Yes, used a TEE fitting off the cam bearing port that also feeds the vacuum pump. ANd yes the oil return is just out the front of the p pump bearing and into the timing case that way.

I really can't state strongly enough to just bag the entire stock throttle linkage and get a Lokar cable and fab up some backets. I have very good pics of it all on the other SD card..I Hope.......

I'll post em when I find em.


All in all, THIS IS SO MUCH OF AN EASIER JOB than the big name shops want you to think.... JUST DO IT:rockwoot::rockwoot:
 
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I will be doing mine soon as well (p-pumping it). I just got my block and crank back from the machine shop today...
 
600megawatts, looks like you got a good deal on the swap! Trust me its well worth it, just takes some time to get it all tuned in. But I still have cruse control, thing is when I true it on it will puff out a good cloud of smoke! But no big deal, it runs cooler anyway on cruise. I have the 24v throttle linkage on my pump and it realy takes away from the tipical 12v touchy throttle.
 
as far as the engine stalling under 750 rpm, has to do with the ppump governor springs / idle screw.

i have not totally figured out how to adjust them so they wont stall that easy, but i have had many different 12 valve trucks, and they have different stall rpms, on some when i dump the clutch, it will go down to 100 rpm, and it will pull hard to get it to run up to 750 rpm like normal.

on others it will stall whenever it goes below 500 rpm.

theres 3 things to play with (gsk, gsk tightness, idle screw, and the adjustment screw on the back of the pump, just above the governor arm adjustment screw (it has a 10 mm locknut)
 
Bosshawg600 said:
600megawatts, looks like you got a good deal on the swap! Trust me its well worth it, just takes some time to get it all tuned in. But I still have cruse control, thing is when I true it on it will puff out a good cloud of smoke! But no big deal, it runs cooler anyway on cruise. I have the 24v throttle linkage on my pump and it realy takes away from the tipical 12v touchy throttle.
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can you please take some pics of your linkage for me, i know the air horn is in the way but just get the best pics of it that you can get. i would appreciate it.
 
Yes, I think it is indeed a gov adjustment issue, that I may play with this weekend. I'm going to get a bosch book as well.

Overall, I WILL NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER (did I say EVER?) go back to anything other than a P pumped truck with a 4k GSK again. Jeeez, I wasted so much time and money on that silly computer torque limited VP 44......

For all the P pump curious out there... DO IT!:woohoo:



GB5.9, Not a problem, I'll take some tomorrow and post em.
 
600 Megawatts said:
Well, yes I know that the VP has an electronic gov, and was adding fuel, but so is the gov in the P7100 right ??? And even if I give it some pedal, if I let it lug down under about 750 RPM, it will stall with any amount of pedal... thats why I was thinking about the pump getting under the injectors.... of course, that doesnt make too much sense I suppose, since the pump is positive displacement, and after all it pops off the injectors while cranking the engine with the starter..... so, thats prob not it...

I wonder just what the computer is doing to the VP's timing at those real low RPMS..... perhaps, my static 17° timing is too advanced for that low RPM... Does anybody know the timing range that the ECM/VP44 has to work with? Like from 10 to 20° maybe ??

MD, my 01.5 had totally drive by wire electronic cruise done eith the PCM/ECM VP44. There was no vacuum actuator... so I have no cruise now:(

Ron/BBL, thanks for the pop off pressure info/correction. I saw the injection pressures listed for the pumps, and I mistakenly took that for pop off...
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vp44 timing sits at around 11.25* at idle. The timing map maxes out at around 26* @ 3500 RPM.

With 17* static timing and the loss of the 'electronic governor' effect, you experience the low RPM effect you describe.

Jim
 
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