24v p-pump and build

whitneyj said:
There's an equation for figuring out what separation should be at the frame and axle side. It takes into consideration the tire size and.... well that's all I remember at the moment :D I'll dig into it tonight when I have a free second.



The issue I've always run into with 3 links using the upper on the pumpkin side was packaging. Space becomes a concern very quickly. The other issue is welding to cast: I hate it. I've seen lighter, high hp buggies with a single upper have their brackets welded to the cast, but as heavy as our pigs are there's no way I'd trust that to hold, especially with our torque levels. I'm assuming that your truss will be what the brackets are welded onto? Even then I feel you're going to have a hard time cramming everything in there. These are really the only 2 reasons I've been thinking radius arms versus a 3 link for my truck. It also won't be anything more than a DD and mild utility.
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Yeah I've seen that equation around 7-9" depending on packaging is good. Yeah I'm not welding to cast. It's the truss that will be mounted to. I'm going to buy the Artec Industries truss for it. It's super beefy. 3/8" top plate and 1/4" gussets. No way to fit it on passenger side due to down pipe. It's will fit on driver side just above driveshaft. At Least on my truck it does, I hope lol.

I don't really care for radius arms, but sometimes it's your only choice. They have Theyre drawbacks, but if you fit in a three link your much better off.


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biggy238 said:
That is excellent info. How far below center is the factory lower link?
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It's a couple inches i'm pretty sure. I don't think you need to be that low, lots of rigs running even with center line or slightly lower and aren't blowing up links. But he has good advice.


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Here's the ford Dana 60 HP ball joint axle. It's from a 2004 pre-super duty. All the brackets have been torched off. I stabbed in the 94-99 dodge knuckles and they look like a perfect fit.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425525968.182604.jpg


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TURBOLVR said:
didnt the ford have better brakes and locking hubs?
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Not sure if it had better brakes? It was a dual piston caliper though. OEM had the vacuum actuated hubs on unit bearings. The ford uses a different wheel bolt pattern unit bearing and has a pretty low tie rod attachment compared to the dodge so it wouldn't match the rear axle bolt pattern.


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The Ferd calipers are much better than the Dodge ones. It doesn't take muh to use the Ferd calipers. When I get to one of my laptops I'll toss the link from pirate about how to modify the Dodge knuckles for the Ferd calipers. It's a pretty significant difference though. It's on my long list of things to do.
 
TURBOLVR said:
Ok. I was thinking it was older. why the swap then?
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It's a high pinion which is a stronger gear setup and more clearance.

Already has 4.10 gears which I want.

Non-CAD axle

35 spline inner shafts and larger diameter are stronger and more compatible with lockers if I want one in the future.

Axle was $200, so I would have spent more on mine swapping to 4.10 gears and one piece inner shaft and then still having a weaker axle. For now I just slid the collar over to locked, but I don't know how long the two piece design will hold up.


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I have the same axle in my garage for potentially the same project, or another XJ, but I figure if sled pullers are making that collar and 2 piece shaft setup live with 3x's the power I'm making, it's good enough for me to leave alone. That and fitting that pumpkin under the farm rail while keeping coils along with 3" wide link brackets... well, it sucks. I went through this once already with my last XJ I built. Now if going coilovers, then it's all easy peazy.
 
Ghostman said:
It's a high pinion which is a stronger gear setup and more clearance.

Already has 4.10 gears which I want.

Non-CAD axle

35 spline inner shafts and larger diameter are stronger and more compatible with lockers if I want one in the future.
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so you'll have the wheels locked in all the time, and only neutral in the Tcase?
 
TURBOLVR said:
so you'll have the wheels locked in all the time, and only neutral in the Tcase?
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Yep. Exactly. Just like a late model 2002. Have one right now like that from the factory. It's great and gets the best mileage.
The third gens are like that too.

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You could also put a set of 97 or older ford f-350 knuckles on that axle and have lockouts with the correct bolt pattern for a dodge. Thats what i did with mine.
 
Peterson said:
You could also put a set of 97 or older ford f-350 knuckles on that axle and have lockouts with the correct bolt pattern for a dodge. Thats what i did with mine.
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Yeah that would work too, but those knuckles are hard to find and I'm gonna stick with the unit bearings for now. Cheaper than buying spindles, hubs, lockouts.


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