24v Problem

Put the key in the driver side door and unlock it. That will turn the factory Security system off. We have also he'd problems with the electric switch behind the lock cylinder and have had to manually turn the electric switch with it off. I hope this helps. I had this kick my rear for 2 weeks before I found the problem. I wound up putting a resister online and disabled the factory system all together and installed an aftermarket system.
 
That's why I was asking what key fob he had... I thought the peanut fobs were capable of enabling an ignition system but the regular square ones weren't. I've seen a few earlier model dodges with a peanut fob but never had any issues. For both systems to quit simultaneously is just a little tough to swallow as coincidence..
 
I don't know how the dodge's worked those years.. but on a ford, they won't even crank if the security system is on, wouldn't there be something flashing on the dash to?
 
No, i've been in Salt Lake picking up my pulling truck instead of working. It does have the peanut shaped remote. We'll try unlocking the driver door with the key and see if that may change anything. Thanks for any ideas, it's not just the normal 24 valve situation.
 
Check and make sure the central timing module under left side of dash above go pedal is plugged in. That controls key fob functions and it will not start if it is not plugged in. Mine caught on fire internally, luckly I was there when it did it. Key fob quit working and I thought the remote start had It messed up - wrong.
 
We got it going. The power door lock fuse was bad. I checked them by looking at them the first time. Then later with a test light and found it not letting current through. Replaced it and it fired right up. So looks like that kept the computer from letting it start. Everyone remember this, it took quite a while, and a lot of wtf's before we figured out that it was the door lock fuse. But the key fob still isn't working, so there may be something more to the equasion also.
 
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