47re front band adjustment?

NickTF

NickTF

Single turbo turd.
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
5,887
94+ Ram AT band adjustment

Quoted from the above link: "The front band controls the 2nd gear cluster. The rear band controls the 3rd gear cluster and reverse. For a 2-3 shift, the transmission shifts back to 1st gear with the front band while the rear band engages 3rd gear. If the front band does not release the 2nd gear clutches before the third gear clutches engage, the transmission binds, which shortens the life of the transmission clutches. If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift."

Since I have the issue of "If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift", which direction do I go (tighter or looser) on the front band adjustment to prevent the front band from releasing too early? I have the band adjusted according to factory specs which are 6ft-lbs/72in-lbs (varified with a swing style torque wrench using the 0-10ft-lb area of the wrench) and backed off 1 7/8 turns. So again my question is should I tighten the adjustment to prevent the front band from releasing too early or loosen it? Thanks.
 
NickTF said:
94+ Ram AT band adjustment

Quoted from the above link: "The front band controls the 2nd gear cluster. The rear band controls the 3rd gear cluster and reverse. For a 2-3 shift, the transmission shifts back to 1st gear with the front band while the rear band engages 3rd gear. If the front band does not release the 2nd gear clutches before the third gear clutches engage, the transmission binds, which shortens the life of the transmission clutches. If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift."

Since I have the issue of "If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift", which direction do I go (tighter or looser) on the front band adjustment to prevent the front band from releasing too early? I have the band adjusted according to factory specs which are 6ft-lbs/72in-lbs (varified with a swing style torque wrench using the 0-10ft-lb area of the wrench) and backed off 1 7/8 turns. So again my question is should I tighten the adjustment to prevent the front band from releasing too early or loosen it? Thanks.
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I've played around with Band Adjustment and in my limited experience, it seems like there isn't a lot of difference on the 2-3 shifting characteristics going from 1.5 turns vs 2.5 turns. This adjustment does seem to make a noticeable difference on the 1-2 shifting characteristics.

What has the most impact on the 2-3 shift is lever ratio, direct clutch pack clearance, servo itself (spring size, solid spacer, number of seals, internal size of the servo, etc), and leak tightness of the servo cover. Sonnax makes an upgraded servo cover for about $20 that minimizes leaks on the release side of the servo.


Sometimes the servo clearances are tighter (less worn) in the beginning and end of the travel stroke. Meaning, if you adjust the band on the tight side, the servo will travel less before applying the 2nd gear band so it will be in a less worn (better sealing) portion of the bore and might help clean up the shift.

On the flip side, you can try a looser adjustment like 2.25 turn loose and you might find a less worn portion of the bore near the end of the piston's stroke.




Since it sounds like the band is releasing early or possibly on-time, it's just that the 3rd gear (direct clutch) is applying slowly, you could have well worn clutches and/or excessive clearance in the 3rd gear clutch pack.

If it was my truck, I would first try adjusting the band looser to see if it makes a noticeable difference. I'd try 2.25 to 2.5 turns loosened. $.02
 
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I was having the same problem. Mine is a 48 but I went to 1 1/2 turns and it helped. No more flare on the 2 to 3 shift. So I would suggest tighter not looser because the band is releasing too soon.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I talked to Goerend and they indicated a variety of things could be occurring. I may full with the throttle pressure for the time being to see if I can address this issue given a tighter t.v. cable adjustment (so tight it stopped full stroke of the throttle pedal by 1/4") has resulted in better 2/3 shift behavior in the past. They are not a fan of tightening the front band probably more for liability than anything else due to the possible bind which may result during the 2/3 shift. Also possible I may be approaching time for a rebuild also which given the material i've seen in my pan before is not completely out of the question. Truck is no longer a daily driver so I'm thinking more throttle pressure/line pressure may just be the trick atleast temporarily.
 
I tired the following which sucked:
1. Tighter adjustment on front band
2. Looser adjustment on band
(multiple positions of 1 and 2 above)
3. TV Lever tied in full throttle position

and all did not fix my issue or were not what I would call tolerable to drive

Then I just backed the t.v. cable all the way out in its adjustment for as tight as it possibly can be without bending anything and my flare shift disappeared. I'm going to make a t.v. lever like the one BPonci has made to avoid throttle bind up and call it good.
 
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when was the last time you went through your vb? reason I ask is it seems like every trans I work on the vb starts throwing a fit when material starts to circulate
 
honestcharlie56 said:
when was the last time you went through your vb? reason I ask is it seems like every trans I work on the vb starts throwing a fit when material starts to circulate
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I haven't, never figured on pulling it out honestly for anything other than to replace it.
 
I made the lever like Bponci's and everything is working as it should finally. It didn't turn out super pretty but it functions as needed lol. Thanks for the help Brad.
 
zstroken said:
Hence the other reason for the pic, I want to see some poor welding, so I don't feel so bad for mine!
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zstroken said:
Did you use two TV levers to make it?
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Ha, I heard that! Just one but added some scrap metal to make up for the loss of length and to place rotational pin where I want it.

When welding I got too close to the torsional spring and ended up having to weld the top of it to the rotational pin. Very ghetto but it holds the spring like intended to keep it from rotating.
 
How come you cant just go down to napa and buy a nice push pull cable that locks?? Then you can adjust it from in the cab to whatever you want. Thats been my idea to avoid having to chase down the TV cable and all that bull.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
How come you cant just go down to napa and buy a nice push pull cable that locks?? Then you can adjust it from in the cab to whatever you want. Thats been my idea to avoid having to chase down the TV cable and all that bull.
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Ideally you don't want to run the pump at full pressure all of the time. It can be done, but it is just harder on things.
 
zstroken said:
Ideally you don't want to run the pump at full pressure all of the time. It can be done, but it is just harder on things.
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Well thats why its adjustable! Crank it up for the track, then tone it down for just street use. Inconvenient to mess with the cable all the time but I think it would simplify some things
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Well thats why its adjustable! Crank it up for the track, then tone it down for just street use. Inconvenient to mess with the cable all the time but I think it would simplify some things
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Yea, and the one time you forget to crank it up when your racing on the street?
 
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