47RE- Still pushing at idle and burning up off stall.

J

jgsturbo

caveman
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
483
This is getting ridiculous...
-99 2500
-47RE
-Rebuilt with Suncoast MEGA3 kit, billet input and a VB from source automotive.
-Lower stall (1500) Triple disc just gone thru by Dunrite Converters to correct some issues.
BD billet flex plate

Drop it in drive, motor lugs down 150 RPMs (EGTs jump too) to 650 RPM.
It will push you right thru the brakes if your not standing on them, the whole truck loads up like your brake boosting lol.
The trans temp starts climbing like crazy! 7mins or so to go from 80 to 180 degrees, just sitting in drive. And this happens anytime the engine isn't at stall speed.
-Cooler isn't plugged, passes fluid just fine.
-I have pulled the trans relay just to make sure the lock up solenoid isn't powered.

Running out of ideas. Obviously something is dragging causing fluid temps to rise. Had this SAME issue before the whole trans and converter rebuild.
 
I was considering that, probably a good idea.
I ditched the heat exchanger for now due to installing twins.
Could loop the lines just for a quick test to see if it still drags.
 
ROFL!
On a side note I put in some 75 DDP injectors and now I feel like an oraler.
Which sucks on this truck because its pretty much stands tow duty.
 
Different trans but my Allison acted like the when the orifice plug came out of the converter flow valve which made it try to lock the converter all the time.
 
There is a check valve that I believe is on the heat exchanger that keeps the converter full... but its gone for now.
 
Your temp rise doesn't sound much different from mine. I have a super low (1300) stall and it builds heat in a hurry at a standstill. How hard are you pushing on the brakes? I have to be on mine pretty good, but nothing crazy. What is your cooler setup? I'm running the factory front mount cooler along with a big Derale under the bed with a fan.
 
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I'm definitely adding an aux cooler under the the bed.
You have to STAND on the brakes or have the parking brake mashed to keep it from walking forward.
Today's findings-
30psi on the front side of the cooler @ 650rpm.

Made a short loop hose to bypass the cooler, 20psi and seemingly a little less load?
EGTs @ 400-450 instead of 500-550.

None of these pressures significant enough to even think about engaging the converter. And I'm pretty much out of try this and that.
I'd almost rather light it on fire than have to R&R the trans again at this point in time.
 
jgsturbo said:
I'm definitely adding an aux cooler under the the bed.
You have to STAND on the brakes or have the parking brake mashed to keep it from walking forward.
Today's findings-
30psi on the front side of the cooler @ 650rpm.

Made a short loop hose to bypass the cooler, 20psi and seemingly a little less load?
EGTs @ 400-450 instead of 500-550.

None of these pressures significant enough to even think about engaging the converter. And I'm pretty much out of try this and that.
I'd almost rather light it on fire than have to R&R the trans again at this point in time.
Click to expand...



Converter or VB.

The 30 you saw on the front side of the cooler, did you get that from the transmission discharge line? I know you said cooler but the oil to water or oil to air?

The 20 psi you are seeing sounds like the VB is charging the TC circuit. If you have another working or stock VB, swap it out.

BTW, even with 5 psi the converter can start to apply. It has happened to me before. Put the truck in drive, 4 psi cooler line discharge pressure and after 10-15 seconds the TC would apply and lug the motor down enough to stall it. The apply piston had a problem.


The rest is HOW TO:

Put a pressure gauge on the discharge line. It will be the forward most transmission line. If you see more that 5 psi, its VB. If you see 5 or less, converter is applying which is what it sounds like to me.


BTW, the 5 psi is a round about number. It could be 5-10 based on VB and how it was setup. it is so you have some reference.
 
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My last tests are from the forward most trans cooler line.
We just swapped for a new built VB , previous one was one I built.
The mega kit includes all billet servo s iirc.
 
Well source auto sent me a new converter to try...
I love dropping the trans! I was supposed to have some help today but well... no-show. 3 hours later and its out.
Maybe tomorrow I'll have it together to find out if its coming right back out again...

Some have mentioned the pump being fowled but looking at it today he either put in a new one or did a good job cleaning up the original. This problem really started with installing this converter, I hope it goes away with it.
 
My Dodge cross member installer, its getting a lot of miles.

New coverter in , NOW it behaves as it should!
Drop it in D, NO rpm drop. Tires don't even roll free hanging.
Give it throttle it flashes to 1500 and rolls.
Temps didn't raise during testing either.

Maybe I can enjoy with damn truck after a year of problems and 6 months of fixing them.
Gave me time to install studs, injectors and twins.
 

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jgsturbo said:
My Dodge cross member installer, its getting a lot of miles.

New coverter in , NOW it behaves as it should!
Drop it in D, NO rpm drop. Tires don't even roll free hanging.
Give it throttle it flashes to 1500 and rolls.
Temps didn't raise during testing either.

Maybe I can enjoy with damn truck after a year of problems and 6 months of fixing them.
Gave me time to install studs, injectors and twins.
Click to expand...


Glad you got it fixed!
 
Well I might have jumped the gun, don't think it had a 100% fill (opps, it was a quick test...)
But never the less RPM drop from N to D is only 75rpm (1/2 of what it was) and heats up but nowhere near as quick. Ordered a big cooler w/ fan and adding a small 8" fan behind the grill to push air thru the stock cooler going slow (not huge but every little bit helps).
I think its manageable now... at least I'm going to give it a go.
Maybe the new converter will loosen up after a bit.

No more stalling either lol!
 
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No room for the block cooler and I don't want to mess with the long lines.
Installing a big derale 16pass cooler w/ thermostat controlled fan at the back of the transfer case right now. The block cooler isn't any good if the engine is reaching 200 anyhow.
 
I have been having this same problem myself. It will be fine until
I drag race the truck then the converter drags and wi stall the truck. My converter is a 2100 stall so no reason it should do that. I'm on my 3rd DPC triple disc in 2400 miles and I've spent thousands on trans coolers, valve body's and rebuilds. Anyone else having this problem?
 
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