47re

[slrrls]

I have a 99.5 dodge 3500.
When I got the truck it was a leaky 53 block so I lock & stitched the block and it did real good for 40,000 miles then the crack opened up again.
Back in the spring I developed transmission problems where it would not pump any fluid and the truck stopped moving altogether.
I quickly found a working 47re and put it in and all was fine except the leaky 53 block but I put 200 or 300 miles on this transmission with no issues.
Then over the summer I swapped in another motor (12 valve).
I added a reman heavy duty torque converter while I was at it with no other mods to the stock transmission, where it had the stock torque converter.
Did okay for about 8 miles after the motor swap, then I tested the cruise which worked ok then the Over Drive switch. As soon as I hit the over drive switch trouble started which put me right back to square one with a tranny not pumping any fluid.
I had a transmission guy with his own shop go through the first tranny I pulled out in the spring and he didn't find any mechanical problems and so he put it back together for me as a spare.
Now i question whether that transmission is any good too as he had no testing facilities.
In other words it may have a bad pump too.
Seems like something is killing my pumps.
He mentioned there may be a check valve causing problems in the rubber hose leading to the cooler in front of the radiator that may be causing the tranny to overheat, but I found none there in either hose.

Couple questions:
-Is there any reason that could explain that switching off over drive is killing these transmissions?
-Should I maybe be considering the computer is doing this and needs replaced?
-could valve body issues be causing this problem?
-Is there a trustworthy nationwide transmission shop that could test a transmission for me on the bench?

 

[SHughes]

Where are you located?

I would suggest calling Goerend and get new upgraded solenoids and a VBA from them.

 

[slrrls]

located on east coast - carolinas.

 

[SHughes]

Tim Barber in Virginia Beach, VA is really good source for all your transmission needs as well.

 

[slrrls]

No others have similar experience with the 47re?

 

[slrrls]

Well the cooler appears to have no clog. I got one cooler to trans line off and it appears clear of any congestion. Have to check the other line running from the cooler.
After that it seems I'll have no choice but to scrap the automatic transmissions and find a 5 spd manual. Him can't throw money at a transmission killer with no end in sight. My been eyeballin a 5spd manual since the first tranny when south anyway. 47re got me on the run again.

I did find a local place called ( what ever it takes ) for transmission parts and they seem to be nationwide. Prices seem reasonable, no consensus on quality yet.

 

[slrrls]

Had an interesting conversation today with a fellow about the problem I described.
He asked if my key ring has a mess of keys hanging off of it, of course I said yes, who don't.
He said he does not know what it is but the keys as they dangle have a shorting affect on the electric transmission that cause mixed or damaged signal to the transmission and the transmission does not know what to do.
He said get a new ignition switch.
As we talked I realized that about the time the first transmission went out the ignition switch had began going all the way back to acc and allowing the key to come out, where it didn't use to do that. I had to have the key in off position to remove the key. This left the radio and whatever else in the on position and it was killing my battery. Still does even now unless I make sure I'm in the off position when I remove the key.
Then another notable thing came to mind.
When this issue started occurring with my transmission was about march at about that time my alarm had started going crazy and going off at all hours.
He said that too can be the problem or part of it.
That every vehicle he gets with an aftermarket alarm installed he removes the alarm completely.
My security system is Avital and is aftermarket.

So it looks like I have a plan now that may fix this issue so I can use the automatic transmission.
I have some faint idea I have read or heard of this key thing before.
At this point I just need to get back to driving the truck instead of fixing it.
I need it for hauling not repairing. wned:

I've found a 47rh I may pick up tomorrow.
I have been reading that the switch from 47re to 47rh can be done.
It seems to me that it could only help to get some of the electronic control out of the picture.

 

[Sportster1208]

What for TPS or APPS are you running? 47re is electronically controlled and needs inputs from PCM to control pressures.

 

[fox]

If the VB commands oil flow, and the converter/pump are turning it should be pumping. ( assuming there is fluid in it at the correct level.
OD has nothing to do with the pump working.

Any chance the converter is not fully seated during install.???
I had a guy ask me to help him with a similar problem. When I told him to pull the trans, he did by leaving the converter on the flex plate. When I told him that was wrong, he said he has always done it that way, on and off. So I showed him what he was doing.
The look on his face was priceless.

 

[slrrls]

Hi,

been busy studying the installation of the 47rh I bought and have not have time to come back.
Sportster I'm running the stock 99 TPS and Apps.

Fox The fluid was correct after the install but then the stick showed low after driving it so I added more until it was correct again on the stick in neutral.
After it quit pumping altogether I checked the stick and it was about 2 or 3 quarts to high on the stick.
Talking to the trans guy he said the sump is emptying the pool in the pan and it's not getting returned probably due to a clog in the line and to look for the valve in the one of the cooler hoses up front. I could not find one but today I found the valve in a short piece of hose at the trans fluid/water cooler on the passenger side of the motor. The valve is a ball and a spring, I removed it completely.
About the tc being seated, I inserted it in the trans before I dropped in the motor. When I never did feel it seat in the second time I spun it about 3 times and it would not slip in any more knotches so I figured well if it is not seated then it won't line up with the flywheel perfectly. When I pulled the motor and trans together the tc was right where it was supposed to be. I mentioned that to someone and he too said that sound like it is where it should be.
Though I'll add when I installed this trans in June I did feel a second knotch when I spun it and when I pulled the trans and motor together the tc was back a 1/8th or 2/8 inch so I had to pull it forward with a screwdriver or something.
I guess that is what I should have looked for this time.

Before pulling out this tranny today it rained me out so I started addressing the ignition switch replacement and finding the alarm components to pull and repatch the wires. I didn't cut any and just sorted them out.
But before I started any of this i went to start it and it just clicked. I charged it full and it still just clicked, cleaned the posts and still just clicked. Then I switched out the ignition electronic piece and it clicked a couple more times then quit clicking altogether.
What a frikin night mare. Now I gotta sort that out.
So when I get this trans slid back I'm going to check the tc and see if it is seated.
Trouble I was finding with it is it is the heavy duty tc and really difficult to work with, unwieldy.
From what I know about inserting the tc there is no way to line any thing up like knotches or slots you just put it in and turn till it seats.
One guy told me it needs to click in or drop into the slot 3 times but I don't ever recall feeling but one major click in place in the past transmissions I have replaced in cars and trucks,

Guess I need to read up on installing the tc again.

I'm not a expert with this stuff i just read and do like alot of the others though I have always worked on my own vehicles successfully I'll add.
This swapping modding business is alot like being your own test pilot, real easy to crash and burn.

I'll tell ya I'm real close to parting this sucker out and just buying another that is how frustrating this is becoming. It has me totally hog tied.
I can't do anything else but work on this sucker since about May.

 

[slrrls]

See the above post.
One thing I realized the other day is I am going to have to pull the bell crank forward so the cables are taught, I never did adjust those so the trans cable is sloppy loose.