47rfe HELP-HELP...no overdrive .....AGAIN

BLT4SIN

BLT4SIN

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Jan 6, 2013
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:doh:..... ok after the third trans in 2 years ive had good luck with my 01 24 valve w the 47rfe... but the last couple weeks ive had no overdrive... new filter fluid band adjustments o/d pressure switch transducer the works.... TC lock up works i can fly down the highway at breakneck speed of 55 at 2500 rpms and turn o/d off and kicks backs about 100 rpms..... but never even tries to engage overdrive.... trucks pretty much stock except small bolt ons..

FASS..exhaust...intake...chip.... trans has 6k on it and i cant figure out why this is happening.....ive tried figuring where to wire in manual o/d switch w no luck only for 12 valve trucks tc lock up..... anyone have any help at all please..........
 
47re?

And if you can turn od off, then it works?

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i thaught that was just tc lock up at 60mph the trucks turning 2500 rpm....2001 dually w 4.10s.. just wired in a manual o/d switch and still nothing...using a switch i grounded pin 21 and nothing changes at all.... really appreciate some help fellas
 
The 100 rpm drop when you hit the OD off, is probably the convertor unlocking.
Measure the resistance of the solenoid at the PCM(I don't have a service manual handy) it should be 33 ohms(this will verify the integrity of the wiring, and the solenoid is electrically ok) You could have a torn seal on the OD piston, several other things as well.

There is a pressure port on the trans for the OD.
 
I would run a wire down to the harness at Trans and ground the OD wire there. I'd nothing then either the OD solenoid isn't functioning correctly or you have a pressure issue
 
zstroken said:
The 100 rpm drop when you hit the OD off, is probably the convertor unlocking.
Measure the resistance of the solenoid at the PCM(I don't have a service manual handy) it should be 33 ohms(this will verify the integrity of the wiring, and the solenoid is electrically ok) You could have a torn seal on the OD piston, several other things as well.

There is a pressure port on the trans for the OD.
Click to expand...

Dan, Im pretty sure that is what it is. Its a couple dollars at most to check it and replace it. If you are unsure about how to do it find a shop capable of working on a trans and its literally under an hour to change it out if your driveshafts come out easy. I could describe how to make a tool so you can fit it back on the trans yourself too if you feel confident.
 
ok so after no progress all week. i think yall are right....i wired the od to switch and nothing tested resistance and ohms and solenoid seemed to be woring had a new one so swapped it out anyway..... im thinking it is the lip seal on the piston and am going to pull the o/d this weekend for a complete rebuild....thinking im going to try out the 48 clutch pack...


anyhelp would be great.....whats this tool you speak of sir....i do feel confident in doing this i just want it to be last time for a while i do pull a large trailer everyday!! about 10k...
 
Get a stepped 48re plate for OD brake clutches, which allows you to use 6 clutches/ steels. Remove the wavy snap ring that goes under the stepped plate.

I set the clearance by sitting the OD piston down in the housing with the bearing and spacer in place. Measure between the top steel and the OD piston. If using the waffle style flat clutches then you want around .110 clearance and if your using the wavy style rabestos clutches then .070 to 090 will work fine. Change clearance with the spacer, or the od direct clutches(if a middle of the road spacer won't set it properly).

The soft kits I buy come with a plastic disc that makes getting the seals in easy.
 
mathews8pt said:
Get a stepped 48re plate for OD brake clutches, which allows you to use 6 clutches/ steels. Remove the wavy snap ring that goes under the stepped plate.

I set the clearance by sitting the OD piston down in the housing with the bearing and spacer in place. Measure between the top steel and the OD piston. If using the waffle style flat clutches then you want around .110 clearance and if your using the wavy style rabestos clutches then .070 to 090 will work fine. Change clearance with the spacer, or the od direct clutches(if a middle of the road spacer won't set it properly).

The soft kits I buy come with a plastic disc that makes getting the seals in easy.
Click to expand...


I have seen several of the stepped plates for the 48RE that are broken. I always use the thicker one.
 
BLT4SIN said:
ok so after no progress all week. i think yall are right....i wired the od to switch and nothing tested resistance and ohms and solenoid seemed to be woring had a new one so swapped it out anyway..... im thinking it is the lip seal on the piston and am going to pull the o/d this weekend for a complete rebuild....thinking im going to try out the 48 clutch pack...


anyhelp would be great.....whats this tool you speak of sir....i do feel confident in doing this i just want it to be last time for a while i do pull a large trailer everyday!! about 10k...
Click to expand...

mathews8pt said:
Get a stepped 48re plate for OD brake clutches, which allows you to use 6 clutches/ steels. Remove the wavy snap ring that goes under the stepped plate.

I set the clearance by sitting the OD piston down in the housing with the bearing and spacer in place. Measure between the top steel and the OD piston. If using the waffle style flat clutches then you want around .110 clearance and if your using the wavy style rabestos clutches then .070 to 090 will work fine. Change clearance with the spacer, or the od direct clutches(if a middle of the road spacer won't set it properly).

The soft kits I buy come with a plastic disc that makes getting the seals in easy.
Click to expand...

I have a hard time holding onto the plastic with ATF on my hands so I take a piece of 3/8 brake line at a comfortable working with length and stick a paper clip into the end of it and smash it with a hammer. Then one on the other end and bend it at a 45* angle so its a multi use tool for pushing seals in. Leave the paper clip sticking out about half of its length when you hammer the line. You can flatten it in a vice also.
 
hmmm....interesting...CSnyder.. thanks for the insight on the tool... this is the battle its my pull truck.. hardly ever moves with out a trailer hooked to it ..24ft gooseneck.. i have a triple disk and shift kit and other minor mods..its lost overdrive 3 times now. i think i will go with alto clutchs but stick with 5 and try to dial in pressure... and clearance is measured with straight line accross od housing correct. as long as my clearance is proper..
 
Borg makes a flat OD clutch that has grooves in it to allow the oil to escape when applied where the stock clutches have no grooves and a bit of a wave to them to allow oil to escape when applied. The flat Borg clutch works better than the stock. To check the clearance, remove the OD piston, spacer and bearing place it on the OD unit same configuration as if it was assembled. Measure between the piston and the OD clutches .100 to .125 is acceptable. This allows the direct OD clutches to release before the OD brake clutches are applied.
 
Hey thaanks for all the replys really appreciatte the help and info... well ive been driving my 06 duramax and havent had much time to play w the trans issue till tonight... me and a friend decided to tackle every option before pulling overdrive..simply because A-its a brand new trans maybe 4k on it max B-because i dont wana pull it hahaha...

Well after digging finding wiring diagrams changing all solenoids and sensors in there i decided to wire up a manual overdrive button and go for a drive--- nothing but the truck did throw a code>>YAY..i was excited to see maybe i had somewhere to go now---DIRECTION.. so the code p-0753. found out that this code means the tcm isnt able to shift from 3rd to 4th. so changed trans relay.no difference difference did a little probing with my fluke meter and realized i dont have power at my number 6 pin on my trans plug........Am i correct in believeing this pin must have positive power when key on engine off?
 
also no pwer at pin number... leads me to beleive theres a short? anyone a wiring diagram maybe know this info? all i hav is a chilton manual which is starting to look like its earned its purchase amount....
 
*bdh*Increased line pressure changed filter fluid adjusted bands and also reset my tv cable....whole new truck to drive 1-3 shifts great 3rd pulls so hard but yet no overdrive.......:nail:.
Im at a loss unless hopefully someone here has some info on the 8 pin connector at the trans.....the only power i have is the 5 volt reference from #2
 
Pin 6 is OD, the ecm supplies a ground here to engage the OD. Pin 7 is TC lockup also engaged by supplying a ground.
 
so those should ground when engageing? am i correct... sorry from the way i read on another forum it says number should have power from trans relay? just confused wanting to clarify
 
just found the diagram if im reading it correctly seems you are correct gwoody. thx for that..
 
You need 12V from the trans relay, to the transmission, and to activate the relays the PCM provides a ground.
 
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