6.0 no start after oil cooler change and replacing all orings in hpo system

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hinder06

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Mar 16, 2013
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Really need help I'm just shade tree mechanic truck was running okay except lack of power and pressure gauge dropped at idle. Decided to change the oil cooler and do an egr delete while i was there i replaced orings on hpop and replaced all orings on the injectors cleaned brass shavings out of ipr and dug out and extra screen that was lodged in there. While i was there i tried perform air test but didnt have pigtail for ipr , so couldnt be sure . After that i cleaned turbo and put it back together . When went fire it up wouldnt.start at all . One thing i forgot was to purge air by turning key back forth three times until i cranked once . Very frustrated at this truck now . How can oil cooler change and installing new orings result in a no start.
 
it takes awhile to blerd the air out. Youll kill a set of batteries most of the time so get the charger ready. crank for 15 sec let it sit for 30 so you dont kill the starter.
 
Back Thanks jeepyjohn I'm going try that and see if it works i was real careful while i was putting itall back so I'm def been scratching my head as to what is wrong i would say I've tried cranking it couple diff times once night before then today prob cranked on it ten min or so . So I'm going try that and get charger ready tomorrow .
 
Always pull the plug on the oil rails and bump it over to purge the air. Then button it up then it is like 10 sec of cranking and it will fire right up. I never killed a set of batteries doing it this way.
 
Thanks for the help guys i took icp out cranked it several times figured they'd be oil coming out but nothing put it back in tried to crank still no start really confused at this point everything had been working prior to me installing oil cooler and all new seals so guess i don't know where to go from here thanks any advice is welcome .
 
When you filled it with oil did you dump a gallon in the filter housing ?
 
I pored gal i think never actaully filled it up but made sure put oil in there I'm hoping.something simple i sure don't wanna take her apart again
 
The stock pressure guage is not moving at all i wish i had money for good set of gauges . The weird thing was that the gauge was doing same thing before but would start and like after a min it seemed the gauge would climb halfway up . When driving around after she warned up good I'd stop or come to idle and the gauge woud drop. I drove like this for few weeks this was main reason i decided change oil cooler and take hpop out for inspection from what i researched the ball valve on hpop could cause oil pres to dip like that but hpop looked fine and out of all tha seals i fixed only ones that even looked bad were gas seal on injectors and few of oil spout seal on top injector but none looked to be prob but i replaced then all . I'm deff scratchin my head , any other questions feel free ask or anything i left out or any ideas thanks like i said I'm just ol shade tree mechanic a lot i don't know and thus is first diesel for me
 
Well it sounds like your LPOP may have been the problem all along, though I'm suspect issues with the HPOP if you found metal shavings in the IPR.

Like others have said, takes a while to bleed the high pressure oil system after a rebuild like that. Even once it's running you may still have air in it. Ford says 3k rpms for 3 minutes. Most just take them out and flog on it a bit.

If you can crank and hold the key over, the low pressure oil gauge should come up, and it only takes about 3psi for that thing to register. If it doesn't come up, I'd be replacing the LPOP. In my truck it takes about 6 full seconds for that LPOP gauge to come up on the dash.

Turning the key back and forth a few times is only going to purge air out of the fuel system, not anything else. You can verify you're getting fuel by pulling the upper fuel filter and cap off and turning the key to see if the bowl fills up.
 
And to help out the batteries while doing this unplug your glow plug module or unplug the harnesses at the pigtail.
 
Thanks guys for the great advice i def have lot things check out I'm limited on funds so hope not anything expensive been busy with work n all haven't had chance look at it in few. I'm sure missing my truck . I believe i want getting any pressure to high pressure side but I'm just judging that by fact want any oil out icp port and i cranked it bunch times. Think going check oil filter housing see of it getting oil next and update my findings from.there thanks lot guys. Yeah as far as ipr it was full brass shaving idk what that is from.it makes me think its just something simple because it was running prior to me replacing oil cooler n stuff but not sure.
 
Update On My Truck After I Let It Sit Awhile And More Research I Got The Truck Running Thanks Alot Guys For Advice As Mentioned ItTurned Out Just To Be ALot Air InThe System AndI Wasn't CrAnking.It Near Enough . After Five Fifteen Seconds Cranks Each Letting It Rest Minute Between It Fired Up . Also Thanks To My New Battery Charger . I Was About Ready Start Air Testing And Looking At Other Issues,When It Was Just Air . After All The Work IDid It Is RunningGreat With Plenty Of Power And No More Turbo NOise After Cleaning.It Good. ITook It And Run It Up Some Steep Hills It Run Great . Again Thanks Alot.Guys .
 
Well Truck Was Running Real Good For First Day But Then Second Day I Started HearinG Alot Of Turbo Flutter Then Just Few Miles From House Heard Loud Pop Got To My House Found Out That Intercooler Hose Blew Off Radiator Housing On Passenger Side . Recconected Hose And Drove It To Work Still Loss Of Power And Turbo Flutter . I Had Cleaned Turbo Prior To Install And Upgraded Bigger Turbo Drain Tube . I'm At A Loss Again Any Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated .
 
Dont Know What To Call It The Part On The Front Grill Where It Was At Before All I Know Is It Called Intercooler Hose
 
Guess Its Just TheIntercoole Might Not Have Had Tight Enough Was Afraid Get Too Tight They Say Can Ruin It , But My Problem Is Why The Bad Turbo Flutter And Loss Power After Running Good For Day . Only Thing I Can Think Is Something Gunked It Up Again . Has Egr Delete Can Rule That Out .
 
Well I Learned Something New I Noticed Light Film Oil Inside Intercooler Hoses And Such Apparently The Ccv Runs Into TheSystem Causing This And IWas Supposed Clean Hoses Good This Prob Another Reason It Popped Off So Easy . IRead There's Easy Way Remove Ccv From That And Run It Back Under Truck I Will Def Be Doing That Soon . Still No Luck FiguringMy Turbo Prob Havent Found Leak Yet Next I'm Check Vgt , Ebv Sensor And Go From There .
 
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