6.7 damper on 12v

dieselpolaris

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Apr 23, 2009
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I know there was a thread on here about putting one on a 5.9 common rail but can a person put one on a 12v. I have one laying here and after looking at it im wondering can i take enough off the back side of it to make it clear the timing case? Thanks
 
What did you do try cutting the tone ring off and milling the backside? I dont need any of the pully ribs as im not running a belt off of it.
 
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i put it in the lathe and got to the edge of the first rib and hit silicone. the pulley on the damper is to big in diameter. if you would cut to almost this far, and then maybe grind some off the timing cover it might work.
 
all the 6.7 crank have seen have 5 bolts, and 5.9 crank have 4 bolts.

how are yall making them fit?
 
well i havent seen a 6.7 cranks, but it looks to me that it has 4 bolts and a dowel pin.
 
I just did this mod and it does work. I took a stock 2nd gen damper and a 6.7 damper to the machine shop and said "Make this look like this."

The tone ring has to come off, but not all the way to the ribs as shown above. I always forget to take pics, but if someone is interested, I can snap one of it on the truck. You will also need a 83 inch belt. Part number K080830. Everything else clears fine and the machine shop said the ribs were off between the two dampers by .005.

It runs awesome!!! I just took it for a short drive then started to replace my valve stem seals. I'll report back if I have any issues with it.

As an added bonus, I can run my assassin with it and still clear the fan by ~1/4"
 
Poor man's fluidampr would be my best explanation.

I did it because my stock one was shot and for a few dollars more than a stock damper, I got a used 6.7 damper and had it machined. Plus I knew I could run the assassin with it.
 
Works for me. It actually sounds horrible to me now. Sounded great on my phone. Try it again and let me know.
 
Nope. The 2nd gen fan pulleys are smaller so it is an easier swap. Just unbolt, bolt and put on a new belt.

Edit: Link work?
 
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It worked on my tablet. Any pictures of the balacer after machining the back? Did you use magnets or machine the slots?
 
Good deal. No, I forgot to take pics. The machine shop just milled it to match the backspacing on the stock damper. It clears the front cover by at least 1/8." It is close to the bottom of the front cover where it sticks our to meet the pan, but it doesn't touch.

It's on my 01 so I don't need slots for the tach. I would imagine you can have them machined, but you would have to relocate the tach pick-up because the 6.7 damper is larger in diameter. Also, your water pump and alt will spin faster. I didn't think it would make any difference because I already have a coolant bypass.
 
Not a problem. I'm just glad it worked. It does run nice in person save for that frog or whatever in serpentine system.
 
Are the grooves actually different or the offset of of the whole pulley. The .005 you mentioned.
 
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