6.7 still throwing codes after smarty

D

DEN

turtle jumping coach
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
188
Ok guys I have a 2007 C&C that lost the exhaust, egr and egr cooler. It found a 5in exhaust for a replacement. Put the Smarty JR ME on and and I am getting a code overnight when the truck sits. P242D "Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit high-Bank 1 sensor 3". Also when the truck gets under a load pulling a trailer I get a message in the overhead saying "catalyst full service required" and the truck loses power immediately. I can't figure it out. You guys have any ideas? I am talking with the the guys at Smarty also. So any help would be appreciated.
 
Anybody else have these problems? Did not hear back from Stefano this morning on the tuner. Still have some other people to hear back from.
 
Had a friend that had this same problem. Switched to H&S and never looked back. But im sure Smarty has come out with some updates since then
 
Glad to hear I am not the only one. I may have to do the same. But I am going to give MADS the chance to get me straightened up first.
 
silvercummins14 said:
Had a friend that had this same problem. Switched to H&S and never looked back. But im sure Smarty has come out with some updates since then
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I have the same problem with the exhaust temp sensor but I'll keep clearing the codes instead of switching to H&S:bang
 
Well put the smarty Jr on a friends stock truck tonight and no codes. Checked the build date on my truck and it is 10/06 so it was one of the first 6.7s. Still at the drawing board.
 
what software version are you running? if it's an early ME version, it will do what you're describing on the CC trucks
 
It is the latest software. Do you guys think it would help to have the truck reflashed? That has been suggested. Here is what Smarty said

Hello,

Is it possible that you obtain codes related to fuel valve too?

During our tests, we have seen problems related to the fuel valve. That problem can produce strange behaviour of the ECM, also the message "Catalyst full". Replacing the spring of the valve or appliyng a modification in order to improve the strenght of it solved the problem in our laboratory.

Best regards,
Gianfranco Castano
MADS

Are they talking about the fuel pump or shimming the fuel rail? I asked them and no response. Also I have an H&S on the way. Going to get this settled hopefully.
 
interested in the outcome.

a reflash won't do anything unless the truck has never been updated. if it hasn't, unload the smarty first just in case they reflash it with a new calibration ID!!!
 
Ok guys here is what I got from the Smarty guys this morning.

Denny,
the problem you're facing is most likely due to a "weak" rail pressure relief valve. I guess that's what you call " shimming the rail". Of course I can not be 100% positive about this but we have seen your problem several times and the fix has always been the pressure relief valve.

Marco

Could you guys interpret for me so I will know what to look for? Is there a valve on the rail and where is it located? Is it the same thing as shimming the rail? If so what do you shim with? Shims, washers, spacers? Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it.
 
Ok guys I do believe it is a weak rail pressure relief valve as Marco suggested. Put the smarty on stock programming but deleting codes and still getting codes. I have a shim kit on the way. Should I shim the old one or should I get a new one and shim it?
 
DEN said:
Ok guys I do believe it is a weak rail pressure relief valve as Marco suggested. Put the smarty on stock programming but deleting codes and still getting codes. I have a shim kit on the way. Should I shim the old one or should I get a new one and shim it?
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I would personally go buy a new one and put it in. I've heard tons of diff things about these valves. Mine is plugged. Others are shimmed. And a lot of guys have gone back to the original and left it alone. Here's one thing that made sense to me and was offered up.

The valves (aftermarket, shimmed, plugged, factory, doesn't matter). Start to nick/marr the interior of the rail (Very very small). After you've pulled it out 4 or more times you're creating a passage way for the fuel to escape without pop'g the valve. Remember it doesn't take much at these pressures. 20 to 30k psi is a retarded amount of pressure. So if it was me. I'd just put in a new one and see, if it doesn't work, take it out and shim it, put it back in. Regardless of whether or not that works I wouldn't remove it again.

And as for the H&S thing. There's no freakin way I'd go back. I started with H&S, switched to smarty. The tunning is just so different. They are really two different tuners.

H&S- 4 levels, shift on fly, higher egt's, 4 lane highway clearing smoke, too much duration, no adjustability.
Smarty- Hp comes in clean and from more timing manipulation than duration. This creates a clean tune with either none or very little smoke. Also makes truck run smoother. POD function allows shift on the fly, but you've got a min of 18 upto date base tune levels, then 4 parameters to adjust (Revo settings for turbo, torq, rail and timing). Then POD values from 99 (Highest) to 0 (Lowest).

The end user adjustibilty of the smarty is so much better. If everybody had all the same mods and drove the same. Then you wouldn't need any adjustment and H&S wld work. But that's not the case, we are different guys, different trucks, and different driving styles. Why buy a One Size fits all, when we know it doesn't?
 
Mine will still throw the catalyst full code even with the latest smarty software. I'd like to know how to fix/prevent it from happening, cuz it gets really annoying when it happens! I've got my rail plugged, so that's not the issue...
 
Weazel you just rained on my parade here I think I am getting it figured out and you tell me this.
 
To plug the fuel rail valve. Take the bango bolt in the top and tap it with an 1/8" NPT. Install a 1/8" pipe plug in the bolt untill it is flush and then reinstall the bolt into the valve. Now your Fuel Rail Pressure Relief Valve is plugged and it cannot relief.
 
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