6.7L down pipe same as 04.5+ 5.9L downpipe?

CSM diesel

CSM diesel

Engineer
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
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479
Anyone happen to know if the down pipe is the same between the 6.7L and the 04.5+ 5.9L?

Thanks!

:rockwoot:
 
I know they mount up the same, and will work. Im thinking the 6.7 has a cat at the end of its downpipe though.
 
You should be in good shape then. My buddy is running a 5in 5.9 aftermarket exhaust on his with all the sensors fooled, and welded in to keep the computer happy. It all bolts right up other than sensors and things.
 
I also am looking into the HE351ve off the 6.7 motor. If you figure out a creative way to control the variable vane width let me know. Currently, I'm thinking about trying to let drive pressure push the vane wider with a mild spring to control opening and an adjustable bolt to control maximum opening and maximum closure. My only fear is that as soot builds up, i will have a tuning nightmare as more and more drive pressure would be required to push the vane open. Thoughts?

I also noticed that the outlet on the 6.7 turbine housing is smaller than the 5.9 He351cw housing. If a true HX40 vband is 4 and 1/16", then the 6.7 outlet is HX40 style instead of 5.9 He351cw 4 and 3/16".

I'm sure you're aware that the 6.7 turbine inlet flange is larger as well. I don't have specs for a t-4 flange but my best guess is that the 6.7 turbine inlet is the same size.

On a positive note, the 6.7 turbo has a 70.5mm exhaust wheel with a 66mm exducer, add in the variable housing and I think the HE351ve will be a mean turbo. Fast spooling and air for 550 HP. The compressor side mic'd out to 60.1mm inducer, 85-88mm exducer depending on where you measure.
 
Holset does make larger versions of that turbo, why not go bigger? Larger turbo but less spooltime time than a 66, wouldn't ya think?
 
Big Blue24 said:
I'm sure you're aware that the 6.7 turbine inlet flange is larger as well. I don't have specs for a t-4 flange but my best guess is that the 6.7 turbine inlet is the same size.
Click to expand...

Here is a rough drawing of the HE351ve compared to a T3 and a T4. It is to scale to give reference. I did not dare dimension it as it would be very crowded and hard to read.
12-25-2008111426AM-2.jpg


As far as control, I have a pneumatic actuator from an exhaust brake that I can use. It has a spring internal to the actuator to hold it closed. As boost pressure comes up, the actuator will expand and slide the veins away from the turbine. Simple enough.....I guess.:rockwoot:
 
little more down time evolved with that one... Think I'll just hillbilly up a adapter to bolt to the manifold.
 
I along with big blue24 are wondering weather or not to plumb in the coolant lines to this particular turbo.
 
A guy on here had one on an import car. He had a wastegate actuator controlling the VNT, and he also sealed up the coolant passages with caulk or something so that he didnt have to run coolant through it.
 
you don't have to caulk the passages up... just leave 'em open or plug them if you feel fancy.

all water does is prevent you from having to let the thing cool down before you shut it down
 
Yeah i dont see why you'd have to caulk it, but i havent messed with one in person so i dont know for sure.
 
I don't see why not... that's what I plan on doing... just using a wastegate actuator. just be sure to err to the loose side when dialing the thing in. IE, if you don't have the RV valve springs, you might want to set it up to run off of drive pressure, and have it full open around 30psi... it's going to act like an exhaust brake
 
True True.... I was going to use an electric solenoid to actuate the exhaust brake portion of the VGT. It would be a stop for the actuator to pull against, flip the switch, and the spring would pull the veins all the way in, de-energize the solenoid and it would pop out to the "baseline" vein position.

Drive pressure would work, just messy:)
 
drive pressure isn't messy... just make sure you ease into your exhaust brake setting... like I said, you'll want to keep an eye on drive pressure, and don't exceed 60psi with RV springs or 30psi w/ stock springs.

I'm pretty sure if you go full closed on the actuator, it'll straight up kill the engine. it'll close WAY down!! LOL
 
Haha it would be like flipping on a standard exhaust brake while being on the throttle.... the truck is a real dog:) I understand the drive pressure issue with the exhaust springs and such. I would set up the fully closed position just like setting up a standard exhaust brake, pop a drive pressure gauge in there and tune for 60psi.

I want to put a dual needle gauge on the truck, like those on a semi tractor with a dual air brake system, to monitor drive pressure and boost pressure on the same gauge. Just to stare at and guess what is going on with the VGT instead of watching the road...
 
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