8.50-9.99 et certified roll cage 4x4 dodge

Chrome Moly tubing is used in drag cars for weight reduction, but is harder and can actually fracture on hard impact. That is why Cup cars are (or at least were) built with mild steel tubing. At 3500#, weight wasn't the issue.
 
Chris you are more than welcome to check out the Ramcharger the Dow brothers did a awesome job way better than i could ever do ,they do it for a living day in and day out they are a great asset to the diesel sport , just take a look at Rods Vette from Spec Rite and some of the other Pro Mods they have built or work on . I cant say enough good about the cage they did in the Ramcharger but if it helps to add safety or helps some one out they are more than welcome to look .
 
If i get a kit do I need the bars that pass thru the rear window? Im trying to keep mine sleeper as possible.
 
Yes you do, unless you do a funny car cage but that would be a hassle for a street driven truck plus it would make it even less of a sleeper if they can see inside your truck.
 
ya how do the crew cabs work i would like to keep my back seat can you have two hoops and come down off the back seat hoop?
 
SMOKIN93 said:
Yes you do, unless you do a funny car cage but that would be a hassle for a street driven truck plus it would make it even less of a sleeper if they can see inside your truck.
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I thought NHRA changed the rear support bar rule for 10.00 and slower pickups with full frames?
 
NHRA did change for roll cages (doesn't have to be a funny car cage). Roll bars still need the back bars.
 
So you guys are saying that if i dont put in the rear bars the cage is only good to 10s
 
If you have the roll bar which is needed for 11.50 and quicker then you should have the back bars in it to be legal I'm assuming. Wouldn't make much sense to have the front support for the bars and not having a rear support. You can go through the back window and it seems I've seen some go through the metal trim. I'd just take out the window and replace with plexi.
 
Per the 2009 rules:

"D" bar installation for full-bodied cars: For front-wheel-drive cars, with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk) and rocker/sill boxes, the 1 1/4-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) "D" bars (when required; i.e., when the main hoop is not welded to the frame) may be welded to a 1 5/8-inch x .083-inch CM (.118-inch MS) crossmember welded to the rocker/sill box via conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch-thick plates. For rear-wheel-drive cars, with neither a frame nor subframe connectors, but with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear inner wheelwells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum) and rocker/sill boxes, the 1 1/4-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) "D" bars may be welded to conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch plates attached to the driveshaft tunnel.

Steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll cages are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies SFI 25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage consists of a four-point (door car) cage with a complete SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2, 10.3 altered, or SFI 10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver's compartment incorporated into and attached to the four-point roll cage. An upper windshield bar is mandatory.

Non-steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll cages are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies SFI 25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage satisfies the requirements for SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2, 10.3 altered, or SFI 10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver's compartment. No four-point (door car) cage is required and no upper windshield bar is required.



Did I interpret this incorrectly? A 4 point cage + driver cage in a steel body pickup with no back brace is ok to 7.50?
 
joefarmer said:
Per the 2009 rules:

"D" bar installation for full-bodied cars: For front-wheel-drive cars, with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk) and rocker/sill boxes, the 1 1/4-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) "D" bars (when required; i.e., when the main hoop is not welded to the frame) may be welded to a 1 5/8-inch x .083-inch CM (.118-inch MS) crossmember welded to the rocker/sill box via conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch-thick plates. For rear-wheel-drive cars, with neither a frame nor subframe connectors, but with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear inner wheelwells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum) and rocker/sill boxes, the 1 1/4-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) "D" bars may be welded to conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch plates attached to the driveshaft tunnel.

Steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll cages are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies SFI 25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage consists of a four-point (door car) cage with a complete SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2, 10.3 altered, or SFI 10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver's compartment incorporated into and attached to the four-point roll cage. An upper windshield bar is mandatory.

Non-steel-bodied pickup trucks (7.50 seconds and slower), roll cages are permitted with no back braces if the roll cage satisfies SFI 25.1E, 25.2, 25.4, or the roll cage satisfies the requirements for SFI 2.4B, 2.5B, 2.6, 2.7A dragster, SFI 10.2, 10.3 altered, or SFI 10.4 street roadster roll cage/driver's compartment. No four-point (door car) cage is required and no upper windshield bar is required.



Did I interpret this incorrectly? A 4 point cage + driver cage in a steel body pickup with no back brace is ok to 7.50?
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It sounds like it. I can't find my rule book to look at.

I don't understand guys wanting to "cage" slow street driven trucks in the name of safety and then try to get by with the absolute minimum. Just like COMP mentioned the rule book is usually the minimum. The rules are probably based on a 1/2 ton 2wd drive short bed chevy truck. Not a 4wd 1 ton Cummins. It's been hashed over here before.
Driving around town in a caged car without a harness and helmet is really dumb. I'm sure every one's seen what a head can do to a windshield. Imagine if your head hits the cage without helmet and harness. I guess you could strap in and put on your helmet to run to the grocery store.

When in doubt, overbuild. Do it for kids sake or your Moms if your sans kids.
 
jcj said:
It sounds like it. I can't find my rule book to look at.

I don't understand guys wanting to "cage" slow street driven trucks in the name of safety and then try to get by with the absolute minimum. Just like COMP mentioned the rule book is usually the minimum. The rules are probably based on a 1/2 ton 2wd drive short bed chevy truck. Not a 4wd 1 ton Cummins. It's been hashed over here before.
Driving around town in a caged car without a harness and helmet is really dumb. I'm sure every one's seen what a head can do to a windshield. Imagine if your head hits the cage without helmet and harness. I guess you could strap in and put on your helmet to run to the grocery store.

When in doubt, overbuild. Do it for kids sake or your Moms if your sans kids.
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this is what roll bar padding is for and why it is required around any part the head can touch.
 
I have heard the story about roll cages being dangerous on street driven vehicles, but I'm curious if anyone has any actual indicents to cite? I would think that a well padded cage would be as safe as anything in a normal interior. That said, I have smacked my knee on the unpadded portions many times climbing around in the car!

One thing to keep in mind on cage padding - you would be surprised how far your body & harness will stretch in a high speed accident. When I crashed hard at the top end of the race track, my helmet hit an unpadded cage roof diagonal that was several inches past where I could stretch my head against the harness, but the high speed impact (took out 5 sections of guardrail) caused me to still hit it. My cage is now padded anywhere remotely close to my body.

On the subject of safety - another area not to scrimp is in the window net mounting. A friend of mine had severely injured his left arm in a crash similar to mine, when the net mounts failed. Fortunately I beefed mine up before my crash, and they held fine.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
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