91 12V help

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chevyman_2000

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Nov 17, 2010
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I found a 91 12V rclb dodge at one of the farms I hunt. The owner wants to sell it and I said I was interested. I'm a diesel owner (duramax) but know little about 12V's and the Rams. What type of things should I look for before buying? The truck is an auto and has 225,000km's on it. Looks to be in really good condition. Any advice would be great!

chev.
 
I am planning on it. Just wanna know what i'm getting into. I found out certian places to look for rust on body. What to look for when she's running. I was told the auto tranny is is slush box and has a hard time shifting into OD. If this was a 5speed it would have been a done deal. Then puttin gthe d-max up forsale.

chev.
 
a few of my friends and i have gone back to old iron in the last year or to. you wont regret it! take some pics and post them up.
 
intercooled or non-intercooled? shouldnt really matter much but early 91's are non-ic and the later 91's are intercooled. there are other differences also. mostly in injectors size (physically and in orifice size) but there are some other small differences.
 
It has OD so it will be intercooled.

Rust above windshield main thing. Auto's are eh until you get a good rebuild and a nice converter.

Nothing like your DMax. IT will be bumpy, rattling mess. The NP205's are nice. To get it somewhat like the DMax power-wise, plan on a AFC fuel pin grind or upgrade, replacing the lift pump, injectors, turbo upgrade, and a converter. Nice thing about the injectors, pump tuning, turbo's, fuel pin grind, they are either free or next to nothing. Plan on $1200 worth of upgrades and it will be just a fast as that DMax. :D
 
Not worried about speed. just want something good on fuel and reliable. D-max when babied on the high over 200km trips gets a steady 22-23MPG. Can I expect this out of the 12V? I need soemthing that is cheap to fix, work on when money allows a few mild mods. Was injured at work 2 years ago and Insurance is cutting me off. No job and lawyer fee's are sucking me dry. Need soomething cheap for the time being. I teared up the moment I realized I have to part with my dream truck.

chev.
 
The early trucks are light, so you should be able to get good fuel economy. Not quite as much power as a Dmax, but you can turn em up for cheap.
 
you should be able to get 17-20mpg. 2 wheel drive will probably get on the high side of those numbers. the trucks are pretty reliable overall. my rustbelt truck has had the most problems with the brake system so far. everything else ive changed has been performance oriented.
 
Well a little update. Went back out to the farmer to see how serious he was about selling. The first time I was there he brought it up ( I was there to ask 4 permission the hunt his farms). Turns out he wants it sold but the guy isn't stupid. He took me threw the entire truck. Showed me the rust spots which include the rain gaurd on the hood, the doors, and the one rear quater. Its all surface rust with no holes. THe truck has new rear brakes. Took it for a rip and it feels "ok" the interior is MINT except for the seat and the 1/4 of dog hair on everything! The front chrome grill is cracked but the chrome is holding strong. The fog lights have moisture in them but they work. He is asking $7000 for. From talking to my dye hard 12V fans its about $500-$1000 more than what it's worth.

chev.
 
holy crap, i want some of what he's smokin, i must be sittin on 20k in that case cuz i have a "holy grail" truck LOL
 
the first gens hold more value then the new 12V "work trucks". At least around here. I'm going to offer the guy $6000 for it. It passed a safety a month ago but I want a once over done by my Cummin's Dr.

chev.
 
check the ball joints, mine were SHOT in the one i had, other than that, just rust and the usual 12 valve stuff
 
usual 12V stuff, such as? rear crakes where just done plus the steering box jasket on the drivers side wheel well.

chev.
 
chevyman_2000 said:
usual 12V stuff, such as? rear crakes where just done plus the steering box jasket on the drivers side wheel well.

chev.
Click to expand...
The truck better be DAMNED CLEAN for $7000.


and from the sounds of it- it aint no $7000 piece.....$.02
 
Sounds like he's asking roughly double what it's worth. Do you have pics??
 
Are we talkin about a 2wd or 4wd truck? 2wd ain't worth half that... And 4wds don't have balljoints...
 
If it's a 2wd 3/4 ton, for $7,000 (or even $6,000), IMO you should steer clear of it at that price.
A 1/4" of doghair would be a good cue as to WHY.

Heck, I have a hard time getting 2k for running, driving rustfree 1 ton Duallies with nice flatbeds on them! :bang

Mark.
 
Yeah, that seems a little steep. Last December I purchased my truck (91.5 4x4) with NO rust, a full airbag system, and 130k with pretty much 0 issues for $5500.

Wait, it needed tires...so $6200.

With some rust, I'd drop it below $5k or keep looking. There are always nice looking 1st gens on eBay and Craigslist.

On the OD thing, often times it's just a problem with the little TPS sensor on top of the fuel pump. Some people remove it and put a dial in the cab, sometimes you can adjust it a little bit. Sometimes it's just a cables out of whack...and I think you can find them all over, and I believe there's a v6 model that will work in its place.

I sold my perfectly working TPS when I swapped to a manual for $30, fyi.
 
ok well if you guys can find one cheaper for me and betterlet me know. It sux that i will have to pay both taxes and exchange for bringing it across the boarder. It sux that everything is so much more $$ up here in Canada.

chev.
 
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