'96 rcsb 12v

blackdiesel

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Feb 8, 2009
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243
Everybody loves pictures, so lets keep the words to a minimum right?

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Picked up a clean '96 sport 2wd about a month or two ago. Have plans for a high economy parts runner for my business with a high compression 12 valve. But between waiting on the machine shop to finish the block and pistons, plus trying to source an inexpensive 6.7 crank for it, I've decided to throw a motor and trans in it to get it on the road until the other engine is finished.

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Previous owner spray bombed some krylon "factory match" garbage all over it. He was very proud of his work but it drove me crazy.

I wasn't going to get this carried away with the truck, but paint is cheap.

Primed in my shop, headed to the booth
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Opted against the sport edition. They are not my favorite.

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Since we've came this far, might as well replace the cracked dash.

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The sport had factory fog lights, which I really wanted to keep. However I have pulled the entire dash, chassis, and engine harness out of a '96 diesel that I have installed into this truck to truly make it all plug and play as I don't have the time to dink around with re-pinning a couple dozen wires. That being said I did have to remove the fog light switch harness from the gas dash harness and overlay it into the diesel.

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I went ahead and removed the seats to access the carpet so I could steam clean it.

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Also put dynamat under the carpet to quiet the noise.

I just rolled the dash and carpet back into the truck last night.
 
I'm sure you noticed the wheel change in the above pictures. Regretfully that's not as simple as just bolting on a new set of wheels on a pre '00 2wd 1500. They ran the coventional wheel bearing setup till '99 and the new 20's would not fit on them.

Logically you just replace the spindle right?

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Wrong.

Upper and lower control arms are different. Along with ball joints and brakes. So quick trip to the junk yard yielded new upper and lower a arms and spindles. Replaced everything else with new. This also put me into outboard rotors, unitized wheel bearings, and dual piston calipers.

There was some fabrication to get the upper control arms to bolt to the factory spring hat as the bolt holes were different width. So it's not truly a bolt-in mod.

Put in 3/4 ton springs while I was in there.

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Rear brakes.

I dislike drums. Not particularly because they don't work, because they do; but as a tech by trade I hate doing brake jobs on drum axles. Unless it's of course it's an air brake system.

The 7-9 hundred dollar kits for the dodge 9-1/4 were simply not an option. I went to the junkyard again and found a 3rd gen half ton and ripped the backing plates off of it along with the lines and e brake assy.

Foolish me (again) for hoping it would be bolt in.

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I had to forgo the e brake setup, which isn't make or brake as the truck is staying an auto. Eventually I trimmed all e-brake associated bracket-ry off and cut the pieces in two. That allowed me to mount them on the backside of the backing plate mounting flange and used bolts to hold it square while I welded them back together and then eventually to the axle tube itself.

This puts the drivers side caliper on the front of the axle which means you need to either use two RH calipers or nut up and put it on the back side, where it belongs, re-drill your holes and burn it it so it looks right.

This also requires you to put a small spacer between the caliper and the caliper bracket to achieve the correct clearance. Which I popped out quick on my lathe, sourced new flange hex headed cap screws from Menards and rear brakes are done.
 
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Pulled a 47re out of my scrap pile to build for this truck. I didn't take too many pics of this as it's just a trans overhaul, however I did source my billet input, accumulator, servo, reverse piston, strut, anchor, and lever from TCS. DPC triple disk and a Firepunk anteater and valve body.

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Machining for a higher clutch count

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I didn't go nuts with some fancy colors as that's not really me.

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Y'all are almost up to speed. But here is where things got out of hand

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-12 ORB ends with a 100 mic screen inside

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s475 billet 75/96/1.1 T6

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CCT kit

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I was trying my best to not jump on this bandwagon but here-gos

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This one may be a little deceiving as the Farrell 215 pump and the Hamilton goodies aren't going in this motor, but it's the only pic of my sxe363 that I have.
sxe63/68/.7 gated.

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It all looks good so far. Should be fun to drive with that turbo setup on that short truck.
 
I am about to do a similar swap in my 01 rcsb. Please keep us informed of any problems you encounter with wiring and such.

That's a clean truck. Should be a lot of fun when it's done

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 
You shouldn't have had to splice the fog light harness in. All the plugs & associated wiring were in my 12v. Just got a switch and the cross over harness along with new clear fog lights. Sharp little truck!
 
You shouldn't have had to splice the fog light harness in. All the plugs & associated wiring were in my 12v. Just got a switch and the cross over harness along with new clear fog lights. Sharp little truck!

As far as the chassis side of the harness goes you are correct. The only wiring I had to pull was the fog light button pigtail out of the gasoline dash harness. (two grounds, an orange illumination wire and two wires going into the main chassis/dash harness connector)
 
That is really odd. As the truck I pulled it out of was a gas half ton. The interior harness in my 12v had/has the plug and the truck did not come with fog lamps.
 
That is really odd. As the truck I pulled it out of was a gas half ton. The interior harness in my 12v had/has the plug and the truck did not come with fog lamps.

That would've been nice!!! I have four old parts trucks and it wasn't on any of them.
 
Trying to get the motor buttoned up so I can get it installed. I'm using some of Jesse's billet parts along with his adjustable pump gear. I needed to retain the tach sensor so I bevelled the factory bolts to install in the aftermarket cover. I clipped .250" from the bracket to position it back over the factory balancer.
 

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Moved it outside last week under its own power.

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Couldn't resist myself. 5 miles in on no retorque I blew the headgasket last Thursday. Yes, I was being stupid. My fault

Cleaned all of that crap up, put on another new Cummins gasket and followed procedure like I should've the first time. I'm very pleased with the firepunk valve body and their anteater controller.

I am not a fan of Crazy Carl's turbo kit. The cold pipe was too short, the intake 45* adapter for the air filter put the intake pipe right where the cold pipe needed to be. I ended up having to lengthen the cold pipe 3/4" of an inch and had to purchase a straight 5" dia adapter for the intake. The turbo oil feed fitting for the s300 was incorrect. In Carl's defense, he did offer to repair or replace the cold pipe. I did not however have time for shipping it both ways/etc. I did not contact them about the intake pipe or the oil feed fittings. That being said for 1600$ I was expecting something better.

His wife Diana was extremely helpful and patient via email with me, and Carl was the same, FWIW.

Anyway truck is back together and I've put another 15 miles on it or so. Need to get it aligned the first of the week and new tires put on it as the Michelin's that were on it are now garbage. Funny how that happens..
 
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