A little help please

I need to get a reliable tach but I think if I get some more fuel I can make more rpm. Does the power screw affect rpm? Full load with the sled behind her I'm guessing I'm only turning 2200 to 2400 bc she's got that hollow bellow to it and most inline diesels usually start howling about that rpm. I know I need to move the throttle linkage to the inner hole and move the stop back. That may help. I don't want to sling her to hard and blow the valves open or float them. Can I run a 4k spring or should I stick with the 3200 until I get some valve springs?
 
CONFEDERATESON said:
you don't need more then 12psi fuel pressure or its gonna push the front seal into the timing case. your not going to hurt anything with a 3k spring either. make sure your valves are adjusted properly and let her eat. I was running a 4k spring on a 12mm pump and my buddy was running a clipped 4k spring on a 13mm pump with no issues. stock head will usually hold 40psi consistently but once you start spiking 45-50 psi they don't tend to like that lol
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Back up there Hoss.

1st off, 12psi IS NOT going to push out the front seal. The vane pump creates more pressure than that and the relief valve dumps into the inlet. The old "12PSI pushes out the front seal" may be from old timers who had OLD trucks with OLD seals trying to push a lot more NEW pressure. Think about it....

Are you back yet?

I have personally pushed 20psi for awhile through my filter and my seal did just fine. I have a Hungry Diesel lift pump and it has the 15psi spring in it. Now failures yet.

I am also sure SmokinVE says he pushes +20 psi to his pump.

2nd, 13mm pump. Are you talking p-pump?

Ddean. I had a 4k for awhile without 60lbs valve springs. Even with stock sticks, once the sled hooked, I never went above 3100rpms. If I had better injectors, I bet I would hit more but if you still have stock injectors, you will be fine.
 
Well I wanna change my sticks bc I don't think the stock ones are enough. I can't compete with the newer trucks with efi live plugged into them so I'm trying to get a little more edge. Would cpp 150 or 175hp 5x14s be to much if I tweak my pump so it's not to rich. I'm making 30 psi boost now but it's not smoking after 18 psi or so
 
Like I said I bought the truck the way it sits and I've been trying to work out the fcked up bugs they put in it and get it tuned a little better
 
I ran 55lpm injectors with a 351. Cleared up the smoke very quick and drive pressure wasn't horrible. I ported the 351's internal gate though. Very fun combo.
 
I've run my lift pumps around 15psi min to 25 max, that's on a stock front seal no loctite and no problems yet. If your looking to compete with well tuned "efi live" trucks with a 12mm pump and single turbo..... sorry bud but good luck.

Start saving get a well set up pump, matched injectors and turbo/s to match and then you'll have something
 
I plan on pushing well over 30psi once I do the 14mm VE soon. I'm torn between money in the car or the truck... sorry guys but a lot of power in a pump gas small block is more fun for me lol wheelies are cool
 
Re read the whole thing. Yeah you don't stand a chance. Sorry but that's the truth.

If you want to play with those guys you need to ditch the mighty VE and move onto one of those witchcraft inline pumps.

But of you want to have some slow fun, stick with the old rotary pump.

I've pushed more inlet pressure than has been mentioned with no issue's what so ever. I did green lock tite the front seal on my 12mm pump, not sure that did much, but it's there.
 
Absolutely correct^^^^^ I know a P pump will do a world more but for some reason I just wanna try a 14mm ve, it would do what I want to do as far as local pulling. Gonna try a s366 and if I get bored I have an ass load of nitrous parts around lol.
 
smokinVE said:
Re read the whole thing. Yeah you don't stand a chance. Sorry but that's the truth.

If you want to play with those guys you need to ditch the mighty VE and move onto one of those witchcraft inline pumps.

But of you want to have some slow fun, stick with the old rotary pump.

I've pushed more inlet pressure than has been mentioned with no issue's what so ever. I did green lock tite the front seal on my 12mm pump, not sure that did much, but it's there.
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:clap:
 
Well tbh I'm on a tight budget so any improvements are better than none. I finished 2nd in the hot street class and 5th in street. I can't complain for not having many mods. I'm gonna ask a guy I know who pulls 3.0 class with a 12v I'm sure he's g9t some stuff laying around he would sell me cheap to get me on my feet. If I had the $$ I would just go balls deep and start from scratch but I could dump 10 to 20k in it easy.
 
oldestof11 said:
Back up there Hoss.

1st off, 12psi IS NOT going to push out the front seal. The vane pump creates more pressure than that and the relief valve dumps into the inlet. The old "12PSI pushes out the front seal" may be from old timers who had OLD trucks with OLD seals trying to push a lot more NEW pressure. Think about it....

Are you back yet?

I have personally pushed 20psi for awhile through my filter and my seal did just fine. I have a Hungry Diesel lift pump and it has the 15psi spring in it. Now failures yet.

I am also sure SmokinVE says he pushes +20 psi to his pump.

2nd, 13mm pump. Are you talking p-pump

sorry for the somewhat misinformation, I have been in p-pump mode. my friends ve had a 14mm head and rotor built by giles. he went through 2 of them before he gave up and went p-pump. I had a stock head and rotor, afc delete, 4k spring, pump jacked to the head fed with a fass 150 set at 14psi. I was only trying to help the op with what I knew from my dealings with the ve because it didn't seem like anyone else even cared to comment on his post. It was not my intention to pee in anyone's wheeties . maybe what I know about them is "outdated" compared to what ppl are doing with them today. also I highly doubt the op has completely rebuild his pump, so he should have "old seals" in his "old truck". every truck is different, I know for a fact that when I was reading on dtr about 5 years ago, that the select few that had made decent power with the ve had ran into some kind of trouble with the front seal. that's where the locktite method came from. some even put a snap ring grove in the pump housing to keep the seal in.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry guys I didn't want to start a debate. Just needed some info. I wanted to keep the VE so I can still run street class that's all. With the rules the way they are if I Change my pump they will for sure shut me down. They gave me grief bc I had a bigger turbo.
 
Where is this front seal and how can I access it and how hard is it to seal up
 
So i got a little free time today and played with my pump. I took the load screw out and the collar was already off and I had met the threads on it so there was no way I could make it go any further so me being the engineering person I am. I decided to make the button on the end of the screw longer so I protected the threads with a nut and used my trusty mig and added about a eighth inch to the end of the screw. Ground it to shape and took a file and smoothed it up. Saved me $30 and i got another turn b4 she started hanging her rpm. I'm right at the limit now b4 she gets silly. I also moved my throttle linkage to the inner hole and moved the wot stop back. Had to tighten up my throttle cable bc it wouldn't give me but a little more than half travel. So now I'm getting damm near 100% throttle travel with alot more ease and not having to try and push the floor board out of the truck. I'm making around 32 psi of boost now but I notice after a burst and I let out of the throttle I get a knock like it's losing fuel. Am I making a little to much boost or is my spring gate not realising pressure soon enough. It did it b4 but now it's worse. If I burp the throttle a few times and put some fuel back in it. It clears up. I thought about adjusting my gate and get my boost back down to about 25 or 26. Never had problems around those boost levels before. Any suggestions on that?
 
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Holy run on paragraph!

Sounds like your starved for fuel. AKA lift pump. If it's the stock one your system is in a vacuum with what you've done to the pump.

With my big injectors, if I go from 100% to nothing I can air lock my pump. Some guys say it's compression getting back up threw the injector. Others say something else (I forget). Nevertheless I've learned to let off slow. No issues now.

Back to you original questions. Yes at least 60# springs, (not Pac brake). Modified gate on a 351 or a 62-63/68, 5x0.014-0.016" (there was a set on here not too long ago). Learn how to tune your AFC, get the stiffer afc housing spring but before any of that....A LIFT PUMP!!!!
 
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