A new idea regarding puke cans....

R

rightwinger

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I have no idea if this has been done or even attempted, if it has then sorry for re-inventing the wheel but here is my idea: On the P pumped 24V I am building, I am going to run a valve cover breather, and also run 2 breathers from a billet tappet cover. My thoughts are to TIG weld a stainless pipe or small box to have the 3 breather lines going into it. This box would have a breather on top of it and have some additional steel wool in it too. I was thinking of putting a drain hose in the bottom of the box or pipe and routing that drain hose to a fitting (that has been welded)on the fuel pump block off plate so that it just drains the excess oil back into the oil pan. I can't see why this would not work, but part of me wonders why this hasn't been done before. I realize the pipe or box would need to be mounted higher than the fuel pump block off plate but other than that I think it should work great, and be able to vent well while retaining some oil that would be lost, especially us that run the expensive synthetic oils. If anyone has any thoughts on why this would not work please let me know, just thinking out loud here. Thanks!
 
It will work just fine, Cat has the same setup on the ACCERT engines.
 
If I wanted to run the mechanical 12V pump I could probably find another place to drain the oil into as well....but I was thinking the pump block off plate would be lower and this would allow me to not have to mount the box any higher than I already would have to.
 
Yes it will work. No, it's not a new idea. Hellman used to make a big, nice one. Jegs/Summit sell a bunch of different kinds, but most are small. I made one, kinda copied the Hellman one and used a K&N filter on top.
 
I am about to put a beastly one together for the 24vriv. I wish diesels could draw vapors back into the turbos, but something about uncontrolled fueling makes me nervous. He might decide later to route vapors out exhaust like moroso valve cover breathers do.

Yall can check it out on the 12th at ennis.
 
Thats good to hear that Jeggs makes one, what are they called? I doubt they're called puke bottles....lol
 
Have one on my truck. My last motor had extreme blow bye due to rings never seating. So I made one based off a dry sump tank. Put 2 uni pod filters on top, and drain it back into the front hole used for dipsticks on front sump motors. Works great.
 
The CR valve cover functions this way. THe factory put a checkvalve before it goes into the fuel pump block-off plate on the factory block.
 
GM makes a neat 12 volt smog pump that is great for pan evac, use a hob switch and set it to come on at a little off of zero boost , for street , and use a belt driven pump for a pulling or race motor. On dry sump motors I pull about 3 inches of vacuum
 
I bought the industrial style CR cover and was planning to make a catch can and mount it where my fuel filter housing used to be and drain it back into the block. I found a very nice filter that came from a piece of medical equipment I'm going to use. It will thread right on the top of the catch can.
 
COMP461 said:
GM makes a neat 12 volt smog pump that is great for pan evac, use a hob switch and set it to come on at a little off of zero boost , for street , and use a belt driven pump for a pulling or race motor. On dry sump motors I pull about 3 inches of vacuum
Click to expand...

Yeah, and i bet the dry sump pump is doing about 2.9" of that vaccuum...
 
Something to think about, if you are evacuating from the top all the blow by needs to come up. On pulling tractors it has been found that this causes oil to pool to the top. Some of the motors I've been around they put the evac as low as possible to make the oil actually draw back toward the pan. May not make as much difference on street motors.
 
Just use pan e-vac check valve and connect hose to downpipe. Makes small vacume wich helps to reduce blowby.
 
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