Adding weight to the crank

LOGANSTANFORTH said:
use mallory to balance them out.....especially when you modifiy them by removing metal, like knife edging the crank so it cuts through the oil better.....you can drill into the face of the filet and add the mallory there....
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Right...but I've never seen added weight to the extent that the inline crank above was....that was a pretty serious buildup.
 
never a reason too, cause most of the time a gas motor that is doing the same work those diesels are doing is spinning in excess of 7K rpm's and rely more on horsepower than torque......another thing is that crank is essentially moving up and down in a inline motor, a V8 crank its getting slammed from all different directions and with that much weight it would most likely snap at the radius, me personally, i think a billet crank would be stronger and much better off cause one you can "control" the grain flow, two its one solid piece, three it hasnt been welded on, its temper changed, cut and modified and screwed with and all that stuff.......yeah a billet crank aint cheap but i believe if your gonna spend big dollars, spend it in the right place......and thats about the most right place you can.....same way with rods and pistons, go big or go home.....
 
Actually there is no grain "flow" in billet like there is in a forged piece. Billets usually come off a rolling mill and the structure tends to be more linear and aligned with the rolling direction.

That being said, the billet can have a nice enough grain size / structure that it minimizes the difference between the two. The old rule of thumb is that metal for metal, a billet piece would be 5-15% short of a good forging.

But like with the billet 4340 Dmax rods, they're more than strong enough even though they lack the structure of a forging.
 
yes, it was late when i was typing that and i got some stuff mixed up, still better to have a piece built than to weld to it and grind and this and that.....
 
Is it worth it? I saw one price quote of $3k in this thread. That's a lot of money. Dollar for dollar, could the money be better spent somewhere else on the truck?
 
I dont think the Dmax block can take much more weight in there as hard as we are pushing these now.... JMO
 
DieselDiva said:
Is it worth it? I saw one price quote of $3k in this thread. That's a lot of money. Dollar for dollar, could the money be better spent somewhere else on the truck?
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I'd say on most trucks no it's not worth it. But if you already have over 40k in an engine as it is, another 3k is nothing and is just another insurance policy.
 
dmaxalliTech said:
I dont think the Dmax block can take much more weight in there as hard as we are pushing these now.... JMO
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Hey, first post. Adam Perry..... just found this forum much better info. IMO

Just thinking Eric. If the crank is heavier would it be easier on the mains and better for the motor in general? Harmonics? The pistons would be a smaller percentage of the crank, and therefore it may put less stress on the mains since the mass acting on a stationary item would be less. This could be much better in my opinion. IDK just thinking since the stock crank may want to distort the mains so bad a high hp levels with more compression and more revs, this may stop that? No?
 
JerrodGlover said:
Is there any room to add on to the D-Max crank?
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I'm sure there probably is but with the current electronic RPM limit it isn't really needed.
 
JerrodGlover said:
I was quoted $3000 to add that weight to my crank. Make sure you have someone that knows what they are doing and is experienced do the work.
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Is that for your new Mod motor or your current truck:fish: :poke:
 
nwpadmax said:
Actually there is no grain "flow" in billet like there is in a forged piece. Billets usually come off a rolling mill and the structure tends to be more linear and aligned with the rolling direction.

That being said, the billet can have a nice enough grain size / structure that it minimizes the difference between the two. The old rule of thumb is that metal for metal, a billet piece would be 5-15% short of a good forging.

But like with the billet 4340 Dmax rods, they're more than strong enough even though they lack the structure of a forging.
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Can you cryo it to get the grain the way you would want? Just Curious...
 
No, cryo treating works on the complete conversion of the martensite phase....kinda like a really really deep quench. So it doesn't affect the grain structure, which comes primarily from the deformation process (forging/rolling/etc.)

Cryo can be applied to both kinds of parts.
 
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