Advice on buying a 2010 to 2012

[YoungGun]

My 12 limited laramie has the buttons on the front side of the steering wheel as well as the rear side volume and channel selectors. Only thing that sucks is the functionality of the stock Nav unit. The Alpine sound system is kick ass though.

 

[mfsuper90]

I got a 2500 14 because of the front end update, coil rears, and def. Def if your going to delete would be a must in my opinion.

I love the coils, they handle weight way better then leafs. I compared an 03 to my 14 with the exact same pin weight and the third gen looked like it was going to do a wheelie and my 14 just leveled the rake out of it

 

[Red Sleeper]

I love the coils, they handle weight way better then leafs. I compared an 03 to my 14 with the exact same pin weight and the third gen looked like it was going to do a wheelie and my 14 just leveled the rake out of it

Does it level out because you have factory air bags in the rear?

 

[mfsuper90]

No factory bags for me. I would upload a picture, but photobuckrt is gay and I don’t know how else to do it. Had one 5500lb tractor backed clear against the front of the gooseneck and another 8500lb pulled in behind it.

My buddies 03 had to have 60lbs in the bags to level out the same load

 

[sootie]

I got a 2500 14 because of the front end update, coil rears, and def. Def if your going to delete would be a must in my opinion.

I love the coils, they handle weight way better then leafs. I compared an 03 to my 14 with the exact same pin weight and the third gen looked like it was going to do a wheelie and my 14 just leveled the rake out of it

First i've EVER heard anyone say that.

 

[USARMY12V]

I’ve had my 2010 since 2013 and never had a single issue knock on wood. Mine has been deleted nearly it’s whole life as well as tuned with either H&S box tunes, MCC, and now EFILive. Only quirky part about them is the 68RFE which you won’t even deal with if you get a manual as you’ve mentioned. I’ve replaced my balljoints with Carli billet ones and it’s been good ever since as far as maintenance of any variety. Alls it needs is fluids and she’s good to go. Coming from a second or third gen it’s like riding in a car in the fourth gen’s. Definitely happy with my purchase.

 

[Big Boy Toys]

Your'e buying it for the motor. The rest of the truck is mediocre at best.

While I tend to agree with you to a point on your statement, I have a 2004 (I know we're talking '10-'12 here) 4 door short bed 6 speed with 426k miles. I cannot believe how well the rest of the truck has held up around the drivetrain. The interior, and just the way it drives, not much for rattles/pieces falling off as I'd expect. I've had 3rd gens with half the miles that were palling apart. Other than 2 sets of injectors & 2 clutches the motor has never been touched, zero blow-by as well.

 

[CorneliusRox]

I’ve had my 2010 since 2013 and never had a single issue knock on wood. Mine has been deleted nearly it’s whole life as well as tuned with either H&S box tunes, MCC, and now EFILive. Only quirky part about them is the 68RFE which you won’t even deal with if you get a manual as you’ve mentioned. I’ve replaced my balljoints with Carli billet ones and it’s been good ever since as far as maintenance of any variety. Alls it needs is fluids and she’s good to go. Coming from a second or third gen it’s like riding in a car in the fourth gen’s. Definitely happy with my purchase.

How did you like switching to EFILive. I'm happy with my MMC engine cal, but I am only ~75% satisfied with the Overdrive tune. There's a couple scenarios where I can confuse it, and to me, it seems like non-refined code.
It's been keeping the trans alive just fine though, so I'm not too concerned.

And those ball joints. I can't fathom spending $800 on ball joints. After getting them, do you think they were worth it? And if so, why?

 

[blackmega3500]

How did you like switching to EFILive. I'm happy with my MMC engine cal, but I am only ~75% satisfied with the Overdrive tune. There's a couple scenarios where I can confuse it, and to me, it seems like non-refined code.
It's been keeping the trans alive just fine though, so I'm not too concerned.

And those ball joints. I can't fathom spending $800 on ball joints. After getting them, do you think they were worth it? And if so, why?

Sadly it's not the overdrive tuning causing the issues. Still the best tuning available for the 68.

Talking about confused imagine reading a scan tool and seeing a $9k comp 68 glitching because of a trans temp sensor failure(solenoid pack) and everytime the truck restarts it shows a digital signal of 1022" and a trans temp intermittent code which resets all the values in the CVI! Literally my overdrives 4/5/6 learned down to a CVI value average of 8!

Overdrive gears are fine actually though since I can hold 4th locked to redline using selector, and the upshift at basically 80mph and 55psi boost and BOOM 5th instantly grabs. Same goes to 6th.

Until there's a true stand alone ability to control the 68 it's just gonna be one of those key cycle to key cycle toss ups.

 

[06 DIESEL]

If anyone is looking for a cherry 2016 my Brother in Law is about to trade his work truck in to get a new truck. 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie will be some where around 80,000 miles

Send me a PM, IIRC he is asking 42,500, it is loaded, leather, etc. He is a farm equipment salesman, he covers four states, so he puts on almost 1k miles a week on his truck. Yes he tows a bumper pull trailer, but only a 10k trailer.

 

[CorneliusRox]

Sadly it's not the overdrive tuning causing the issues. Still the best tuning available for the 68.

Talking about confused imagine reading a scan tool and seeing a $9k comp 68 glitching because of a trans temp sensor failure(solenoid pack) and everytime the truck restarts it shows a digital signal of 1022" and a trans temp intermittent code which resets all the values in the CVI! Literally my overdrives 4/5/6 learned down to a CVI value average of 8!

Overdrive gears are fine actually though since I can hold 4th locked to redline using selector, and the upshift at basically 80mph and 55psi boost and BOOM 5th instantly grabs. Same goes to 6th.

Until there's a true stand alone ability to control the 68 it's just gonna be one of those key cycle to key cycle toss ups.

It's pretty easy to swap that solenoid pack. It'll take you around 2hrs and cost you $250 (plus filters/seal/fluid if you do those then too).
My sensors are all accurate and I've never seen any sporadic readings when logging, so I think it's just code.
I do agree though, and looking at the solenoid pack, I really think a stand alone wouldn't be the hardest thing to make. The tough parts would be:
1) Adding a learning feature to understand clutch thickness since there's no bands to be adjusted.
2) Adding the logic around temp and how it changes fluid characteristics.
3) Making it in a way that people couldn't apply the wrong solenoids at the same time and burn that thing up fast.

And I'm pretty sure 4th gear is part of the direct pack, not the OD pack. Also, your OD pack should be the larger billet one that addresses the low torque slipping issue in 5th and 6th.

Filters/Seal I got:
Seal & Both Filters, 68RFE

Solenoid Pack:
Newest Rev OEM Solenoid Pack, 68RFE

Procedure Video:
45RFE 545RFE 68RFE Shift Solenoid Block Pack Replacement - Install RFE - YouTube

:Cheer:

 

[blackmega3500]

It's pretty easy to swap that solenoid pack. It'll take you around 2hrs and cost you $250 (plus filters/seal/fluid if you do those then too).
My sensors are all accurate and I've never seen any sporadic readings when logging, so I think it's just code.
I do agree though, and looking at the solenoid pack, I really think a stand alone wouldn't be the hardest thing to make. The tough parts would be:
1) Adding a learning feature to understand clutch thickness since there's no bands to be adjusted.
2) Adding the logic around temp and how it changes fluid characteristics.
3) Making it in a way that people couldn't apply the wrong solenoids at the same time and burn that thing up fast.

And I'm pretty sure 4th gear is part of the direct pack, not the OD pack. Also, your OD pack should be the larger billet one that addresses the low torque slipping issue in 5th and 6th.

Filters/Seal I got:
Seal & Both Filters, 68RFE

Solenoid Pack:
Newest Rev OEM Solenoid Pack, 68RFE

Procedure Video:
45RFE 545RFE 68RFE Shift Solenoid Block Pack Replacement - Install RFE - YouTube

:Cheer:

No we have 2c (1st-3rd) and 4c (4th-6th). 5th and 6th are basically "b!tches" to 4th as it's the true over drive. At least that's how Suncoast explained it.

So anything affecting 4c will go up the line.

I got all the parts to swap, I just need to find the time. Like you said though it's fast and have a Snap on Verus to get the quicklearn knocked out with.

 

[CorneliusRox]

I didn't know 4th was part of the OD. That makes me feel like I should be nicer to it. 4th is technically not OD since it's a 1:1 ratio, AKA 3rd gear in a 47/48re.

Other than that, you haven't had any issues with your Suncoast?
I get a pretty hefty discount on BD stuff, so I will likely toss their 68RFE and TC on when the time comes, but there will be a phone call with Suncoast and RevMax before then.

 

[blackmega3500]

I didn't know 4th was part of the OD. That makes me feel like I should be nicer to it. 4th is technically not OD since it's a 1:1 ratio, AKA 3rd gear in a 47/48re.

Other than that, you haven't had any issues with your Suncoast?
I get a pretty hefty discount on BD stuff, so I will likely toss their 68RFE and TC on when the time comes, but there will be a phone call with Suncoast and RevMax before then.

Outside of having a 4c pressure feed o-ring fail and this solenoid pack(original with nearly 8yrs on it) start to give trouble I'm impressed with this build. I love the build though and handles the hell I give it.

Your right though, 4c just remains in play during 5th and 6th.

It used to be recommended only do "pulls" while 5th or 6th locked on the shifter, not Ernie (the 68 guru at Suncoast) says nope.... 4th amd only 4th should be beat pm since its double clitched or something.

 

[okie18]

I love the coils, they handle weight way better then leafs. I compared an 03 to my 14 with the exact same pin weight and the third gen looked like it was going to do a wheelie and my 14 just leveled the rake out of it

I'll second this, the coils tow and ride awesome compared to any of the newer leaf sprung trucks I've been in.

The uconnect blows balls compared to fords sync and chevy's my link phone wise. Dad just got a 18 base model chevy and connecting your phone to it is simple and fast. The uconnect in my 14 longhorn is terrible phone connection wise compared to a base model chevy. On top of the terrible voice commands and the pita navigation, screw uconnect. And the not letting you not do sh1t while the vehicle is in motion...

 

[red dodge2]

Anyone ever had a problem with their key fob? Mine wont lock or unlock, panic doesnt work, remote start wont either. Only thing it does is start the truck. Put a new battery in and still nothing.

Also you cant unlock or lock the doors from the drivers side.

 

[CorneliusRox]

Anyone ever had a problem with their key fob? Mine wont lock or unlock, panic doesnt work, remote start wont either. Only thing it does is start the truck. Put a new battery in and still nothing.

Also you cant unlock or lock the doors from the drivers side.

Yes, I had that exactly. I fixed it by getting a new key fob and having it programmed.
I only got one fob when I bought the truck and you need two to program more, so I had to pay the lock smith.
I had the exact same issues, and thought it was internal to the truck since the lock/unlock on the door would intermittently work, but after replacing the fob, I've not had that issue once.

 

[USARMY12V]

Anyone ever had a problem with their key fob? Mine wont lock or unlock, panic doesnt work, remote start wont either. Only thing it does is start the truck. Put a new battery in and still nothing.

Also you cant unlock or lock the doors from the drivers side.

There’s the little metal things behind the rubber outter part of the key, on the (opposite side of the circuit board of the a battery) that sometimes come offset of the contact and they won’t activate it when pressed. They need to be recentered on the contact and will then work. I have that issue sometimes with mine.

 

[red dodge2]

Yes, I had that exactly. I fixed it by getting a new key fob and having it programmed.
I only got one fob when I bought the truck and you need two to program more, so I had to pay the lock smith.
I had the exact same issues, and thought it was internal to the truck since the lock/unlock on the door would intermittently work, but after replacing the fob, I've not had that issue once.

So the lock switch on the door didnt work either? And when you got a new fob and programmed it, it worked? Did you buy a new fob from dodge or aftermarket?

 

[CorneliusRox]

There’s the little metal things behind the rubber outter part of the key, on the (opposite side of the circuit board of the a battery) that sometimes come offset of the contact and they won’t activate it when pressed. They need to be recentered on the contact and will then work. I have that issue sometimes with mine.

I had that issue too and bought an eBay remote to steal the rubber piece out of because mine was pretty beat. That helped with the clicking, but I think it was the immobilizer on the PCB that was going bad and making my switch on the drivers door act goofy.