Advice

Prospect3

Prospect3

Grippin n Rippin
Joined
Jan 26, 2013
Messages
87
This is going to be a long one so hang with me please. Truck is an 06 3500 megacab srw g56. Mods are intake, straight pipe, smarty ssr, edge ct tuner, htt 64/71, II dragonfly injectors, airdog 200 gph, Wilson thrasher intake manifold, valair street triple and spearco intercooler with mbrp ic pipes and boots.

First question/problem: the edge was installed last Thursday and on the first drive it blew a huge hold in the mbrp boot coming right off the turbo. Reading on here and talking with some people this is a problem with them. And recommendations for better boots to run? I'd honestly just rather get different ones. I looked at the bd ones and they seem like a better design. Anybody running these? Feedback please.

The 2nd and 3rd questions pertain to drag racing.

Second question: how high into the rpms are these motors ok to go to? In the 1/4 I'm at 3000 rpm at around 99/100 mph. I'm shifting all gears around 3k. Am I safe to go higher?

Third question: at the line I'm using all three pedals. At the third yellow I'm skidding over to the fuel pedal and putting it on the floor and slipping the clutch. I know the more I do it the better ill get but any advice or tips to help me do better on my 60? And please don't say get an automatic. Yes I'm aware it'd be faster but in my opinion less fun.

Thanks guys and sorry so long.
 
That is the technique I used when I ran my truck with the stick. I would start to slip it slightly right when the second yellow came down.
 
I'm slipping is as soon as I get up to the line. Clutch is about half way out while the lights are going down. Sometimes it bogs down when I go sometimes it doesn't. Idk
 
Your goin to loose alot of life off that thing if it doesn't scatter. Idk much bout valairs trip disk, but it would scare me.
 
It's holding up pretty good so far. I dont notice a difference yet when I'm driving home to when I drive there. They said its built for this kinda stuff. Guess I'll find out lol
 
I would be worried about the g56 itself, not the clutch, that thing can take some abuse LOL
 
"N2O" ? Try that it makes stuff faster.
lol


I won't say automatic, even though I just did, please disregard.
I'd be very afraid of the G56.
 
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N20 is in the thought process for October. I'm be in wv on a quad trip next month unfortunately. And as fas at the g56... Are you guys referring to the case flexing under high torque? I honestly think I still have a little room to grow. But me saying that I'll probably destroy it next time out. I have the internals from another one waiting if it does happen. I was also reading up on the torque shield from lazarsmith.
 
Do you know for sure if that does in fact keep it from getting all messed up?
 
Prospect3 said:
Do you know for sure if that does in fact keep it from getting all messed up?
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I don't. It's a preventative measure. To keeps things from getting messed up we leave them stock, but that's no fun.
 
My thought when racing a manual was to put the parking brake on a handle like cars and use that to help spool at the line. Pull handle, use 2 feet for 2 pedals, release handle and clutch at same time, grab handshaker.
 
I also considered a line lock on a button mounted to the handshaker. While bumping into the lights press the brakes nice and firm, once I'n hold button slip clutch and roll.
 
oldblue116 said:
I also considered a line lock on a button mounted to the handshaker. While bumping into the lights press the brakes nice and firm, once I'n hold button slip clutch and roll.
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The problem with that is you need to do that once the 2nd set of bulbs are lit. Not enough time to adjust rpm and load IMO. If you don't have the brakes set hard enough then you roll through the lights. If you have set it too hard then you can't really light your second set of bulbs.

The other problem I see is if you don't time it right you're gonna break something. It full load then no load. If you don't release the button quick enough the drive train gets a real bad shock when the clutch is dumped. With a handle when you line up and let go, it's dynamic vs static.

Finally, iirc, nhra says no line locks to be used for staging.
 
oldestof11 said:
The problem with that is you need to do that once the 2nd set of bulbs are lit. Not enough time to adjust rpm and load IMO. If you don't have the brakes set hard enough then you roll through the lights. If you have set it too hard then you can't really light your second set of bulbs.

The other problem I see is if you don't time it right you're gonna break something. It full load then no load. If you don't release the button quick enough the drive train gets a real bad shock when the clutch is dumped. With a handle when you line up and let go, it's dynamic vs static.

Finally, iirc, nhra says no line locks to be used for staging.
Click to expand...

I can understand that, but it would be just the same as the parking break. And I don't see a parking brake being as capable to hold you back. It would be much easier to release a button than to let the handle go, and your hand is already on the shifter.

As far as nhra rules stating you cant use line lock.... Who cares lol they will never know the difference
 
I'm trying to think of a way to used line lock on all four corners and tie it into one switch lol idk if that's possible. I've tried the parking break didn't work too well.
 
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