air shut off cable question

I never even worried about the damage it could do,I figured if my truck broke loose from the sled I should of used the thought time on hitch not the kill cable.In other words make sure the hitch stays on and you will not need the cable.The one in the cab was what I was worried about in case the pump stuck.
 
True, i have spent time bracing the hitch so it doesn't break (hopefully), my next step will be to run a second cable into the cab so I can shut it down in case of a runaway, but I'll add this winter when the p-pump goes on. The chance of a run away with the vp44 right now is very very slim.
 
Well if you run a p-pump and stick the rack, the sled operator has something to shut you down before it blows. Its not all there just for the hitch.
 
LOL. Biggest reason was I already had an electric kill for the Fass, and the p7100, I just needed to tie in the solenoid to the air shut off. I also wanted the simplicity of being able to kill it in the cab and so the sled driver can kill it.

Giving the sled driver control is a good idea, if your truck started to run away you could rush out and pull the rear yourself.
 
zstroken said:
LOL. Biggest reason was I already had an electric kill for the Fass, and the p7100, I just needed to tie in the solenoid to the air shut off. I also wanted the simplicity of being able to kill it in the cab and so the sled driver can kill it.

Giving the sled driver control is a good idea, if your truck started to run away you could rush out and pull the rear yourself.
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i see what you are saying, i had been putting this off for too long and finally had to finish it for the pull tonight.
 
You gonna be running around with that on all the time? If so I would dust proof that knife a little. I have the same setup and the casting on the knife is terrible. I also had to do some buffing so the knife would fully close and not suck halfway open.
 
already made it so it closes fully all the way, and the do-it-yourself gasket maker works for sealing it, just trace the pattern and cut it out.
 
Looks like a real nice setup.

Like ramtough said, a lot of pullers around here just use zip ties.

I didnt pay attention but do you have a clip or cotter pin on the other side of the pin that realeases the blade?? If your going to be driving daily with the shutoff, Id put one in. You never know when some wiseass is gonna pull your rear kill switch.
 
thanks i'll have to remember that so when he ticks me off one night i can pull his kill switch and leave him scratching his head wondering why it won't start.
 
use a piece of fuel line on the back of the truck only tighten the hoseclamp just enough to pull the pin when the cable hits your stop the hosewill come of I have been doing this for years not failed yet.
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I ran a length of small diameter copper tubing and passed some cable through it. You can pick up both pretty cheap. Kept the tubing in place with some small adjustable clamps.

Anyone know how strong the springs need to be to make sure it closes completely before the turbo sucks it up to the side? I would think that some of the lighter blastgate style gates may not be strong enough? Don't really want to test it out though.
 
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