Everything Dockboy recommended is well advised.
As far as the tree types and reaction times, it can get a little confusing. Back in the "old days" the reaction timer started when the last amber bulb turned on (instead of starting when the green turns on). On the standard full tree, there is 0.500 sec between bulbs, so a perfect light on the "old system" was 0.500 (and a 0.499 was a red light by 0.001). The typical "Pro tree", where all the ambers flash at the same time, is 0.400 sec between ambers and green. On the old style reaction timer and pro tree, a 0.400 is a perfect light.
A few years ago they converted most timing systems to report reaction time when the green turned on, so 0.000 is a perfect light (and -0.001 is a 0.001 red light), whether you are on a full tree or pro tree. Some tracks are still using older timing systems with the "old style" reaction times.
To further confuse the issue, some classes (Specifically NHRA "Super-Street" which is like Quick Diesel on a 10.90 index) have switched to a 0.500 Pro tree (since it was thought that cars of that speed did not leave hard enough to get a good reaction time on a 0.400 pro tree).
As Dockboy mentioned, reaction time is everything in drag racing, whether bracket racing or Quick Diesel. One of the things I do at the track is watch the lights come down when I'm not racing, so I have that cadence drilled into my head (for getting my timing down). Another good thing to do is to get a practice tree (you can get one for $100 from Jegs), and practice your timing at home. Mine got misplaced (I think it's lost in the bottom of one of my daughter's toy boxes), so I may be buying another one if I don't find it soon!
The basic strategy for bracket racing is to cut the best light you can, then win by as little as possible. It sounds oversimplified, but that is how you do it (and why the guy was on the brakes against Triton). Just don't do like I did in Bakersfield, and hit the brakes too hard and let the other guy by you!
Regards,
Michael Pliska