Am i the only one with bad luck?

2001cumminsman

2001cumminsman

Uh....?
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
139
I put the 12v gear case on for the p pump swap, one of the protrusions off the case from the bolt of the cam sensor adapter (timing pin setup) was hitting the cam gear.. And after that I got to looking at the rest of the case and it was protruding more than the cam sensor so needless to say I masked everything off and had to grind everything down... Just a rant I guess but I've never read of this problem on any of the forums
 

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Another before pic... Sorry for the wrong order of pics phone isn't exactly wanting to cooperate
 

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Not sure it's Carl's conversion, so whatever case he uses? What're you guys doing on the return line off the pump? Just T into the stock return line?
 
I'm not sure then either. Yes, I used a 6an - 5/16" compression adapter to tie into the factory return.
 
I'm running a adjustable gear, so if I get tdc on the motor and the pump is pin timed at 24* I'll start there with timing but if I want to advance it more then I would turn the motor counter clockwise or the pumps got to turn clockwise if your looking at it from the front? Or do I have this backwards?
 
Eat soot he emailed me back with specs. 150-160lbs on the gear nut and 40-45lbs on the 6 with locktite, and either remove the little screw or leave it just hand tight
 
When advancing the timing I just take out the little screw and move it to the next hole to the right, and with a wrench on the pump gear nut I turn it clockwise until the little Allen bolt threads in the next hole. Each hole on the little Allen is two degrees. This can be done with the pump in any position just keep in mind sometimes there will be tension on the pump and it will turn by itself so loosen everything first then hold the pump nut with wrench then back out the little bolt and move to the next hole and just turn clockwise until it starts, again each hole is two degrees advance going clockwise.
 
So I realize this was probably idiotic but I just used gasket maker (right stuff) to seal up between the pan and gear case I made the assumption I had put enough on to seal, but I have a steady drip coming from between the two.. My thoughts now is I should have cut the front of a pan gasket to match the exposed pan area but me being a tard I didn't... Is that what most people usually do?
 
I ended up having to pull my pan and replace the gasket due to a similar leak.
 
Did you pull the motor or just raise it up enough to pull the pan? I think my cut gasket and more gasket maker worked or at least so far. My next problem is getting the tach to read. Before the conversion I was having problems with the tach quoting and the fass not staying on now it's doing the same thing I assumed the vp was the cause. Also while trying to diagnose the truck at one point the fuel pump kicked in and the tach started jumping around with key on engine off and a scanner hooked up to it.


I hooked up a scanner and It can't read the rpm. Codes are..
P1698, 1693, 1689, 0563, 0230. I've checked grounds and even have jumper cables to use as secondary grounds to go from batteries to chassis and block, I also robbed a ecm from a truck that was a manual but still nothing... I'm at loss
 
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I forgot to add that when I did the conversion I reached the cam sensor with a new one
 
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What did the tone ring on the cam gear look like?

I pull the valve cover and take out the passenger motor mount bolt. Then I jack it off the Ac compressor bracket. I think I always had my compounds off so you might have to pull the hot pipe off.

Them zip out the pan bolts and it will lay on the cross member. Then you can get to the sump bolts. Ratchet wrench is handy for those.
 
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