any ideas to help get my turbo going ..

Well, I just talked to Garmon who as I said built the tranny and he think a looser converter will help a little but, not a much. It will get the RPM's going down low but, then fall on it's face up high, that's not good! I would like to keep the G forces a tight converter give too. I may have to end up going that route but, before I do... I really want to try anything else I can.

All your suggestions are greatly appreciated !! At least I have a good idea of where it start and/or end in the search for this fix.

these are some of the suggestions I've received...

twin turbo's
looser converter
smaller injectors
larger turbo
lower fuel pressure
replace the FCA on the duramax pump to a Cummins FCA or modded FCA

do all these things sound like they are in the right directions

now I just have to figure out what's going to work.
 
You can make huge injector lite. You just need to let the motor spin a little more freely. Once you do this, you are able to move the air to lite the turbo. Stay will the injectors you got. You'll kick yourself when the smaller injectors don't do the job. Then you two steps in the hole, rather than one.
 
Not that my opinion matters......CONVERTER, CONVERTER, and CONVERTER. Can't get any help from schieds? I could told you that.....:kick:
 
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sootman said:
Not that my opinion matters......CONVERTER, CONVERTER, and CONVERTER. Can't get any help from schieds? I could told you that.....:kick:
If you want someone to build you a custom converter to everything on your truck and not some off the shelf job? PM me.
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no dude, believe or not, I do appreciate your opinion. I knew about Scheids customer service before I went to them but, couldn't get anyone close to do the work.

I talked to Garmon about the converter and he says he can do the work or send it to Suncoast, don't know how custom is would be though.

I'll send you a pm...
 
Can you guys tell how a loose converter affects driveabilty ? What if anything will I loose by doing that ?
 
Like I said, I run stock stall. The more torque you make, the higher stall the converter acts like. It runs a little higher in the RPMs when taking off from a stop. With the truck turned down, half throttle, I'm going through the gears at 2,500 rpm. The triple disc handles the internal slipping just fine. I always thought that the stock stall was more drivable than a low stall converter. It smokes less when putting around.

You gotta remember, RPMs = air. The motor is just a big pump. If you are running a little more rpm with the same or less fuel, that turbo is already spinning faster.

You'll want a mystery switch or a commander.
 
chrleb1 said:
Like I said, I run stock stall. The more torque you make, the higher stall the converter acts like. It runs a little higher in the RPMs when taking off from a stop. With the truck turned down, half throttle, I'm going through the gears at 2,500 rpm. The triple disc handles the internal slipping just fine. I always thought that the stock stall was more drivable than a low stall converter. It smokes less when putting around.

You gotta remember, RPMs = air. The motor is just a big pump. If you are running a little more rpm with the same or less fuel, that turbo is already spinning faster.

You'll want a mystery switch or a commander.
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thanks for the explanation. I was aware of the rpm's but, wasn't sure how a slipping converter would act. I'll have to looking into a lock up of some sort. I hear it's not easily done on the newer models without something like a Commander. Just a switch would be nice.
 
triton said:
twin turbo's
looser converter
smaller injectors
larger turbo
lower fuel pressure
replace the FCA on the duramax pump to a Cummins FCA or modded FCA

do all these things sound like they are in the right directions

now I just have to figure out what's going to work.
Click to expand...

I don't think the turbo's big enough to need a large stall converter. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a combination of electronics and fuel pressure. I've successfully tuned the fuel pressure timing rattle out of a Dmax by lowering the base fuel pressure map. I wouldn't be surprised by the 'too much fuel' part of it.
 
joefarmer said:
I don't think the turbo's big enough to need a large stall converter. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a combination of electronics and fuel pressure. I've successfully tuned the fuel pressure timing rattle out of a Dmax by lowering the base fuel pressure map. I wouldn't be surprised by the 'too much fuel' part of it.
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I can take care of the feed pressure but the electronics part isn't as easy. In talking with several people, there's a big need for a software that fuels only when so much boost has been built. I'm surprised something like this isn't out there already but maybe if it could be it would ?

I would like to think I wouldn't need to mess with the tranny but everyone is pretty right about needing the low end rpm's. I hope you're right.
 
Sorry, should have explained a little better. The I'm talking about fuel rail pressure. I can't explain the technical reason, but on a larger set of injectors in te Dmax, lowering the fuel rail pressure base across the map from 1000-1900 rpm helped resolve the fuel timing rattle that it had.

The 15:1 compression will also take away some of the snappy-ness. Lower compression is better for the durability, but takes away a little drive-ability.

I would guess that a lot of little changes are needed to tweak the way the truck drives. You changed a lot of setup components. Matching and tuning will be your chore. :)
 
joefarmer said:
Sorry, should have explained a little better. The I'm talking about fuel rail pressure. I can't explain the technical reason, but on a larger set of injectors in te Dmax, lowering the fuel rail pressure base across the map from 1000-1900 rpm helped resolve the fuel timing rattle that it had.

The 15:1 compression will also take away some of the snappy-ness. Lower compression is better for the durability, but takes away a little drive-ability.

I would guess that a lot of little changes are needed to tweak the way the truck drives. You changed a lot of setup components. Matching and tuning will be your chore. :)
Click to expand...

And a chore it's become which I expected but, didn't realize it would be such a pain. One reason I'm here looking for help from you guys that would know.

According to Dan@PPE, the feed pressure must be low too. Once I do that though, I run the chance of running the pressure to low @WOT. The walbro that worked so well my have to be replaced with something more compatible.

I haven't ran it enough to verify rail pressures under different loads. The smarty definitely raises it though.

Apparently a MP-8 will make matter worse from one person experience and now hearing what you're saying I suppose that's gonna be the case.

I guess this is the point where everyone wishes they had a dyno in the backyard :)
 
triton said:
It's a Helix II which Scheid installed who BTW, have been NO HELP AT ALL !!
Click to expand...

Sorry Ty, tried to warn you.
By the way, I think i saw you at SDX with the wheels on and running. Looks really good, :rockwoot: better than sitting in the lot in Lafayette.
 
feelmecummin said:
Sorry Ty, tried to warn you.
By the way, I think i saw you at SDX with the wheels on and running. Looks really good, :rockwoot: better than sitting in the lot in Lafayette.
Click to expand...

That's cool man. Believe me, I know how Scheid was. I tried dealing with them a few months before and got a we don't give a $%^ attitude over the phone. The guys there are nice, Dan was very cordial, the mechanics knew what they were doing but, you'd think when someone spends the kind of money I did with them, you get some really good service before and after the fact. Hell, I couldn't even get them to give me a free ticket to the pulls last weekend !
I did get a T-shirt :rockwoot: LOL

You should have stop and said hi. I would like to have meet you. I was a loner that weekend.
 
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u were driving and i was across the parking lot, but i noticed the truck and was like that "thats gotta be ty"
its a sweet rig for sure, i wish i couldda taken a ride in her.
i send a ton of business to scheid since i dont have the machines that they do, and they still treat me that way too.
 
joefarmer said:
Ty, here's a thread with info about dual CP3 lift (feed) pump pressure.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13908
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Thanks Brandon. I've read that thread and as many other that I find about duals. I guess every beast isn't the same. I want to post some info I found in looking for this fix......

dual PPE Feed pressure : PPE recommends no more than 12 to 15psi of feed pressure. The FCA's can only throttle back so far to control rail pressure at idle. Increased feed pressure causes increased output from the CP-3's.

changing the FCA's : the PPE control box code is written for the values of the Duramax FCA, a Cummins likely will not work. A modded FCA will likely compound the problem

turn up the wastegate to compensate for lack of combustion : This is all good but, in talking to HTT, the 64/14 is only inefficient between 35 and 40psi. Turning it up a little my help but, he didn't feel that's where my problem lied. If I try to take it passed 40 I would just be spinning wheels ( in the turbo ) This didn't seem right to me. So many are running much higher boost than 40psi.

The reason I posted this stuff is it goes against what some have said. I'm not saying everyone is wrong and I totally appreciate all the help. I just wanted to post what I found when these things were suggested to help the fix.

That stuff may be " by the book " I know in my situation I'm probably a good ways outside the book and may just have to innovate on my own.
 
triton said:
Thanks Brandon. I've read that thread and as many other that I find about duals. I guess every beast isn't the same. I want to post some info I found in looking for this fix......

dual PPE Feed pressure : PPE recommends no more than 12 to 15psi of feed pressure. The FCA's can only throttle back so far to control rail pressure at idle. Increased feed pressure causes increased output from the CP-3's.

changing the FCA's : the PPE control box code is written for the values of the Duramax FCA, a Cummins likely will not work. A modded FCA will likely compound the problem

turn up the wastegate to compensate for lack of combustion : This is all good but, in talking to HTT, the 64/14 is only inefficient between 35 and 40psi. Turning it up a little my help but, he didn't feel that's where my problem lied. If I try to take it passed 40 I would just be spinning wheels ( in the turbo ) This didn't seem right to me. So many are running much higher boost than 40psi.

The reason I posted this stuff is it goes against what some have said. I'm not saying everyone is wrong and I totally appreciate all the help. I just wanted to post what I found when these things were suggested to help the fix.

That stuff may be " by the book " I know in my situation I'm probably a good ways outside the book and may just have to innovate on my own.
Click to expand...


Chunk that turbo....the stock turbo will make 40 safely. SB66 all day long.

You have more than enough fuel to spin a big single with little to no lag. I do it everyday. Loosen up the converter and tell HTT you want a REAL turbo.$.02
 
sootman said:
Chunk that turbo....the stock turbo will make 40 safely. SB66 all day long.

You have more than enough fuel to spin a big single with little to no lag. I do it everyday. Loosen up the converter and tell HTT you want a REAL turbo.$.02
Click to expand...

LOL... HTT would love that LOL
 
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